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Torques

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    Transmission Lubricants

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    For a sticky.............................

    What we use;

    4WD Transfer = Castrol Transmax Z

    Automatic Transmission = Castrol Transmax Z

    Manual Transmission = Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

    Differential = Castrol SAF-XA

    Cheers

    Gary

    Hi!

    Differential = Castrol SAF-XA is only valid for a LS Differential, right?

    Btw.

    Here's the recommendation from BP for R33GTST:

    Engine:

    Visco 7000 0W-40 4.1 litres

    Manual Transmission:

    SHX-M75W-90 2.8 litres

    Differential:

    SHX-M75W-90 1.3 litres

    Transmission Lubricants

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    For a sticky.............................

    What we use;

    4WD Transfer = Castrol Transmax Z

    Automatic Transmission = Castrol Transmax Z

    Manual Transmission = Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

    Differential = Castrol SAF-XA

    Cheers

    Gary

    Hi!

    Differential = Castrol SAF-XA is only valid for a LS Differential, right?

    Btw.

    Here's the recommendation from BP for R33GTST:

    Engine:

    Visco 7000 0W-40 4.1 litres

    Manual Transmission:

    SHX-M75W-90 2.8 litres

    Differential:

    SHX-M75W-90 1.3 litres

    R33gts S2, Is There A Turbo Drop In Replacement?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Yes it activates it and switches it off at a pre-assigned RPM point.

    Alright,

    So it seems there is no easy and 'cheap' way getting an ECU that does it all and

    involves a no clutter/plug and drive installation.

    I will start out by upping the boost via a ball/spring bleed valve so I get a feel for

    how the car reacts to more boost.

    In addition I have to buy a good boost gauge.

    I found one with a peak hold and peak warn function:

    Boost gauge

    I think it looks promising ...

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Were they the .8mm pregapped ones ?? I had misfire at idle too with .8mm. Regapped them to 1mm and no more misfire at any rpm... If you can't be bothered regapping, might be easier/cheaper just to buy a new set (what is it like 10 euro for 6?) of the ones that come with 1.1mm gap and try those, I suspect they'll work just fine if the old ones were 1.5mm.

    Well ... I see what I can do.

    Right now I'm glad I got the bonnet closed :)

    But I guess I need to regap the plugs to 1-1.1 ..

    :P

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    GDay Andrew!

    We use 98 RON fuel here and it's cheaper than yours! In Sydney, it can be $1.29/l midweek and then go up 10c later in the week.

    I'd try re-gapping the plugs as Delta-F said with your 100 octane and get back to us.

    If the Kms travelled is suss, had you thought of changing your timing belt?

    Cheers, T

    Hi Terry,

    That's dirt cheap for 98 RON!

    I'll come over to Oz then ... seems a good place for me anyway since I also have a dirtbike which I really would like to use...

    As for the timing belt I have given it some thought already ..

    I'd like having a look at the belt just to be sure ..

    Is the cover easy to detach so the belt is exposed for checking?

    As for the car:

    The mileage seems suspiciously low but all the engine (serpentine) belts look like brand new.

    Then there are the tires.

    The manufacturing date for the tires seems to be 01/2001 and they're some expensive Japanese ones (forgot the name)

    However the thread is at 85% ..

    But one thing is for sure, it has been garaged since the paint is in good nick.

    Cheers! :blush:

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    95 is probably a bit on the low side, but should be OK as long as you don't push it too hard and are running stock boost and timing. AFAIA these cars are designed to run on around 100 octane Jap fuel so the further you are away from that standard the more likely damage is to occur. Anyway, may not be the total answer for the plug damage you have, but possibly a contributing factor.

    Yep ... they are designed for 100, but the knock sensor helps keeping low octane usable.

    What fuel do you driver over there?

    And how expensive is gas in Oz?

    Cheers ..

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Those champion plugs look much like I'd expect a standard set to after quite a few k's - rounding of the centre electrode due to erosion, which also increases the gap. There seems to be bit of variation in combustion between cylinders but that might be due to the increasing gap....also could just be the photo. In any event, the amount of k's to produce the same erosion in a set of platinum plugs should be considerably greater (assuming normal combustion).

    One possible common thing here is fuel - what do you run in these cars over there ??

    Hi ...

    Mostly 95 octane ... pump fuel.

    Then there is 100 octane ultimate, but it's quite pricey.

    I have not tried 100 octane yet, but will check it out once my gas tank is nearly empty.

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Torques

    According to the OP the car is standard apart from the HKS exhaust. Given the temperature capabilities of the plug materials, I doubt that simply incorrect heat-range selection has caused that damage.

    Hi,

    Thanks for all the answers. :)

    All I can say is that I have driven the car for about 7 hours at around 4500-6000rpm when I was going from the UK to Europe.

    It's kinda difficult finding out what made the plugs look like they do.

    But judging from the old copper paste and the looks of the plugs I'd say they have been in there for at least 4 years.

    I have another older car, a Chrysler, and the spark plugs look similar to the ones I had in the Skyline (as for the wear)

    Chrysler Sparks

    These plugs have been in the car for 4 years...

    I now have installed these NGK copper plugs (shame on me) and I have a slight misfire at idle (at least I think it's misfire)

    And I'm under the impression that the car ran better with the AutoLite Platinum plugs. (though I have not fully tested)

    Cheers from rainy London >_<

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Torques

    being an R33 I'd seriously doubt the car has done less than 100k-120k kms realistically. Mine came with 65k on the odo and it's an R34 and I have a feeling it's done atleast 100k as there's lifter noise (although I've masked that with thicker oil)

    If you want a piece of mind just get a compression/leakdown test done but if the car pulls nicely, doesn't use oil or blow smoke it's probably fine.

    Ps. I hope you've put some decent plugs this time ..NGK copper plugs are the shizzit for RBs ..cheap and last a year on average. Get them in the .8mm gap size if you get any missfire.

    Hmm ... I can't argue that a low odometer reading is somewhat fishy.

    (Though I have it in writing ;)

    I have no lifter noise, rust, smoke or other nasty stuff.

    It's a really neat car. I like it alot :D

    (I'll be posting some pictures)

    http://www.strangelanding.com/skyline/r33/r33.html

    How long did it take you changing the plugs?

    And isn't it better removing the whole frame where the coils sit on rather than removing each coils separately? (that's what I did)

    ?

    As for misfiring I did not have any, even with the worn out 1.5mm gap from the old plugs.

    I drove the car from England to Europe (800km through 4 countries) in 7 hours ;) and there was no problem whatsoever. (driving at 160-180km/h)

    Even the gas mileage was good..

    But I know ... if it's too good to be true, it possibly isn't true ;)

    Cheers to OZ!

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Actually they claim 100,000 miles (nearly 161,000 km's !!) and a five year guarantee (with conditions, of course):

    http://www.autolite.com/products/doublePlatinum.php

    Can't really comment on the rest, but I also doubt your car has done only 55,000kms

    Yep ... that's a lot of mileage especially for a spark plug in a turbo engine.

    Is there an engine number linked to the vehicle id?

    I could try to cross reference..

    I honestly doubt the engine has 160,000km+ because I know how engines with this mileage run/look.

    But of course there is always a risk involved :D

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Torques

    Is this car standard ??

    Those photos show badly eroded Autolite double-platinum plugs, which should last around 100,000 miles in a more-or-less standard engine. 'Double platinum' means they have platinum on the earth electrode as well as the centre electrode. Those plugs have done a lot of work.

    Sorry to say, but they look like they're from a car that's done 155,000kms rather than 55,000.

    That said, I suppose it's possible they were put in your engine from another car with high mileage......

    Hi!

    Yes, the car is standard .. :D (except that there was a huge HKS exhaust)

    As for the engine ... of course you never know what has happened to the car in Japan.

    And I doubt the car really has only 55,000km on the clock.

    However the engine does not look like it has been swapped unless the people who have done it are real masters in doing so.

    There is not a single scratch in the engine bay, and all the mounts are in pristine conditions.

    Even the pedals and seats show no wear or tear.

    Same goes for the headlights or windshield (no chips or scratches)

    It even came with the service record from the Japanese Workshop.

    As for the engine, it pulls strong and uses no oil whatsoever.

    In addition the engine sounds pretty healthy and not like 155,000km+.

    But back to the plugs .... Autolite claims 100,000km and these plugs look like 200,000 ...

    Very strange!

    So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Torques

    Hi there ..

    Yesterday I changed the spark plugs on my R33 GTST S2 for the first time (I had the car for just 8 month)

    Since I'm new to the car it took me 3 hours : ( but next time I recon it will be more of an hour)

    Anyhow I have included the pictures of the old plugs, and I think these are pretty much worn out.

    Considering they're platinum (by a company called AutoLite) I figure these plugs have been in the car for a long time.

    The gap is at 1.5mm due to erosion ..

    The car had just one owner (in Japan) and the certificates claims that the milage is 55,000 km.

    I have no experience with platinum spark plugs, so any comments on the pictures is welcomed.

    From the colouring of the plugs I'd say the engine is sound ..

    PLUGS 1

    PLUGS 2

    Cheers from London ...

    R33gts S2, Is There A Turbo Drop In Replacement?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    ok, just to give you a quick run down on rich and retard, it isn't a boost based thing. it is based on airflow. so if you accelerated in the right way you could probably get close to hitting 15psi at higher rpm with the stock ecu, or if you just stomp it off the line you would probably hit it at about 13psi. the actual pressure has little effect on whether the ecu goes into rich and retard mode. when the ecu sees excess airflow it backs off the timing and richens up the air/fuel ratios. so if you want anything over about 205kw you are definately going to need some sort of aftermarket ecu solution.

    as for the turbo, the highflow turbo is going to be the most direct bolt in turbo, as it still uses all the stock oil and water lines etc. it doesn't help you much, but there are plenty of places here that do ball bearing high flows

    Thanks for the run down :ninja:

    Is it possible having the standard ECU remapped (like a Mines ECU) to get around the R&R?

    As for power I read the following

    injectors max out at around 340 bhp

    afm max out............around.340 bhp

    fuel pump max........around 350 bhp

    standard turbo, max boost .8bar, max power 330bhp ish

    standard ecu max power 330bhp ish

    standard clutch.....340bhp max

    Now you guys tell me that the standard ECU is no good for anything over 274bhp .. :)

    Cheers ...

    R33gts S2, Is There A Turbo Drop In Replacement?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi there and thanks for the answers :)

    Easily

    Not if you want the ceramic turbine to stay attached

    Would be a shame if it came off, wouldn't it? :)

    I read that the standard turbo is good for 11-12PSI.

    Some claim even 13PSI ..

    Quite dangerous if you don't know what you are doing, plus the standard ECU wil beat you every time.

    Try a search on "+rich+retard".

    Not if you want the ceramic turbine to stay attached

    Now that IS VERY interesting since nobody ever mentioned anything about "+rich+retard" for stage I where I was reading.

    But if I increase the boost in small steps, to 9-10PSI shouldn't it be safe?

    Waste of money, keep it simple. Especially if you are going to use the ECU to control the boost later on.

    I like 'keep it simple', how does a new EU control the boost?

    Is it using the already build in boost control valve?

    Turbo charged motorcycles? Once you add boost you will be surpised at the changes it makes to your tuning experience.

    Nope just NA engines, but a turbo engine is not much different (except for the turbo of course ;))

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