joe blo

are these 2 typres different? what are the differences if so? i have some rb25det ones that say 1996 on them im thinking of trying in my rb20 that wont rev out good. i changed the sparkplugs on the rb20 and it made a big difference so im thinking it could be the coilpacks. when i was changing the sparkplugs the rb20 coil packs seemed the same but the rb25 ones were in my room so i dunno if they are the same. so are they?

Z32 Air Flow Meter #FOOEOOO202 Z32 AFM Plug #1 287 013 004

thanks for that. thats the sort of stuff i wanted. i forgot to get a fuel filter when i was at the shop. like i said i want to start with the cheap stuff and free stuff first. i can hear the fuel pump working when i turn the ignition on and after i stop the car. i dunno if it sounds bad but i just noticed the exhaust is crushed at the end of the front pipe where it goes from the dump pipe bend then goes straight along the bottom of the car. its probably down to 2.5 inches at a guess maybe abit less. i did hit it on a driveway today but it may have already been crushed before then. il unbolt it before the cat and see how it goes. i had a vl turbo that i got with crushed exhaust probably about the same size this ones crushed to and had a collapsed cat and it wouldnt make much boost picked up 90rwhp on the dyno after removing the exhaust. its got some defi boost guage with a seperate controller that i cant seem to get to do anything. i think il double check its actually got a hose to it. it sits on about the .2bar line once you turn the car on and doesnt move at all how do i check the coil packs? the idle drops when i disconnect the afm. thats a sign that its atleast working abit isnt it? il try all that stuff but thanks.

i just got a vl with a rb20det with auto gearbox in it. it was running really rough when you put your foot even lightly on the accelerator but you could still drive it ok and sometimes it will want to accelerate and other times it will hesitate and wont go very good. so i changed the spark plugs from ngk bcpr5es -11 or whatever they are to bcpr6es (cant remember exactly right now what the letters are but there the ones everyone says to use on here) and it runs alot better but it still doesnt go good on top end and wont accelerate hard but it hardly hesitates now. i beleive the new plugs are .8mm gap or something and ones with -11 would be the same heat range but 1.1mm gap. i read to go the .8mm gaps if its got breathing mods like air filter and exhaust so i got them ones coz it has pod and 3 inch exhaust. would they be the right ones? the guy i got it off said his mechanic said it had something wrong with the turbo but the boost guage doesnt seem to work so i cant see if its making how much boost its making but it does seem to make some but i dont know if its actually making any but it makes the dose noise louder the more you rev it out. i wasnt revving it hard at all before i changed the plugs and just revved it out a few times around the block but it wont rev very hard. there is a whining noise that sounds like supersonic is the way i would describe it like high pitched whirring noise when i park it and rev it then it wakes the noise for a few seconds. does it sound like there might actually be a problem with it not allowing it to make boost. the guy i got it off said it wont make boost but if he was just looking at the guage it doesnt move at all for vaccuum or boost. or does it sound fuel related coz he said something about fuel regulator or fuel pump that his mechanic said? or does it sound like something to do with the computer maybe not allowing it to rev out coz it said something about the computer in the ad but i dunno? its had water leak down in the wiring and computer but i havent opened the computer to check. is there a way to check fault codes on the computer to see if theres anything wrong? so yeah mates, if you have any ideas let me know where to start with the cheapest options first. and i wont be driving around foot to the floor so i dont lean it out bad ( hopefully the few hits i gave it didnt hurt it. i was going with like a quarter accelerator and it would go ok then when it wouldnt go any more on quarter accelerator id give it full throttle and it would go abit more but not much. hopefully it wasnt too bad) i spoke to the guy that did the modplate about 6 months ago and he said it had problems when he did the modplate for it ages ago. he said something about the coils. does it sound like it could be coil packs? how would i check to see if the turbo is ok? check the front for shaft play and check to see if the rear wheel is stil intact then that would mean its ok sort of? it seems like it wants to come on boost and does abit then it all sorta flattens out. also when i start it when the motor is cold it takes like 5-10 times for it to actually start then when its warm it goes first time everytime. does that help any to diagnose the problem? i dont wanna take it to a shop just yet sorry mates theres a fair bit to read there.

where is the guy? is it a rb25det computer? with nisstune or what?

when you put the rb25det head on the rb30 bottomend how the holes arent the same shape at the end where you weld up the vct hole. do i just put the rb30 headgasket on it how it is even though the holes arent the same shape?

pm sent about that one

i need one asap. adjustable or standard doesnt matter

i need a intake one asap mates

i need a intake one asap mates

i need the intake one asap mates

i just want to put ones straight in. so rb25 ones ey?

i read it as being he doesnt want to spend $1000 for cams ontop of whatever fixing and rebuilding it costs. not that he is only going to spend $1000 total. i am currently getting a rb25 head reconditioned at the shop. its costing me $495 plus $211 for the topend gaskets and valve stem seals. dunno exactly what there doing to it but. so yours will be around that plus whatever the replacement parts cost plus a little bit more if it needs to be machined if its broken. on a side note... if im putting a rb25det head on a rb30 na block it brings the compression to 8.2:1 i think. should i get it shaved to up the compression abit? could i shave it enough to get it back to the 9.0:1 compression of a rb25det motor without anything hitting from shaving it too much?

do i use rb30 or rb25 head bolts to put the rb25 head onto a rb30 bottomend

i dont have any adjustable ones at all at the moment. i got the head and some parts were in a shoe box. there was only one standard cam gear in there. so i wanna get some standard ones if anyones selling them or some cheap adjustable ones. but i read on a thread on here not to use cheap ones. why is that? il buy secondhand standard or adjustable ones of someone also

il get both if i have to. the other ones at the shop so i dont know right now. il find out but im guessing no one will sell me just one anyway.

what are the cheapest adjustable ones available for rb25det and who sells them? or if anyone has a set of standard ones il buy them off you coz i got a head and it only has one with it so i need to get another set or just one but i dont know which one i need. pm me if you can sell me second hand ones or post here to tell me the cheapest new ones available

i need rb25det cam gears asap. i only really need one but i dunno which one so il get both if youve upgraded to adjustable ones or something. im on brisbane northside. pm me if you have some please

need standard rb25 cam gears asap. im on brisbane northside. pm me if you have some

hi mates. what is the fitting called that you tap into the front of the head to feed the vct? like what size and numbers and stuff? also what do i use for the bit where it tees into the oil pressure sender. what size and name is it called? also is EVERYONE using a drain at the back of the head? il be using it mainly for treet but will be drifing it and drag track sometimes. do i really need to spend the $250 for one off spool imports or can i not use one and be ok? can you show some pics of ones if you made one and didnt use the spool drain kit. and include the name of the parts if you know them. will the heat resistant rubber or silicone or whatever hose it is be safe forever? is it easy to not have it close to the manifold or exhaust or anything that will melt it? i just dont wanna spend 250 bux for it to melt if it cant easily be put out of melting range

where it says in the guide to drill the hole at the place it says how far do you drill it in and is that defiinately the right place to put it? my motor is at the engineers but i want to confirm thats where to put the new stud and how far to drill in.

just a few questions mates. how much will it cost to hone the rb30 bores at a machine shop? they still look like there honed after pulling it down, shud i get it done again anyway when i put new rings in? how much to acid clean it or hot wash it or whatever they do to clean it? on the bearings that come out of it it says nissan then some numbers then it has std on them. does this mean there standard size or nothing to do with it being standard size? shud i get my standard new rings and bearings from a nissan or holden dealer or shud i get them from repco or similar? which will be cheaper? how much shud i expect to pay for the new main bearings and new big end bearings and new piston rings all standard parts? do i need to put new bits in the part where the piston goes on the end of the rod? is there bearings in there or what? thanks for any help

i want to buy a motor in good condition. tell me the ks and how much you want

how much can i get away with doing the conversion for not including the bottom end? how muh is the mod to the head where you get the bit welded up then resurfaced? how much to drill and tap the new feed in the head? how much to tap the new tensioner hole in and thread it? how much for new tensioner? how much for new timing belt to suit? rb30 headgasket - 80 bux genuine nissan can you just tell me coz ive read the whole thread and all the other ones on here and it will be good for people to know straight up by reading this. il be putting the head on myself and putting it in the car myself but need the maching and tapping done at a shop. and what have i forgotten and include the price also. if theres already one like this put up a link thanks mates

yer mate. its straight bolt on same as if you took your old one off and put it straight back on