TTT

Your previous advice was not good advice at all. Would you like me to tear it down?

the fact that it is FULLY synthetic "IS" the reason. Your car will run on 4100 or any other kind of oil. people treat their cars well. if you were hungry, and felt like an apple, would you get one that's been left in the sun for a few days and a little bruised? or pay double the cost and get a perfectly green, perfectly round, bruise free, crisp, cool granny smith. both will reult in no more hunger, but one will definitely be better for you and make you feel better. /food comparison. other than that, the people recommending the best are the same people who have spend many thousands on their motors and don't want to have to do that again, so they do "ANYTHING" they can to prevent that situation. $100 for oil is cheap for them compared to what they spent to get their engines brand new, and they will do whatever they can to keep it that way. the fact is that Taxis do million km's using just your regular shit $30 oil. if your car is a street only car that makes under 200rwkw, and driven sedately most of the time, you can use the $40 4100 turbolight oil. just check it and change it before the 5000kms. from what I can remember when I was using it, that oil went black, realy quick. I spent the extra $30 and got Castrol Edge 10w-60 - 5L for $70

Ryobi tuned suspension is always a cheaper alternative..

120-140 degrees, THEN slow down?? I feel sorry for your car man..

AUTO is the main problem. the next problem is the 2L and 1450kg. I sold this for $12K about 2 years ago. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1311.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1318.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1300.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1322.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1314.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...s4/CIMG1313.jpg There is currently one for sale on here in Manual and in REALLY good condition for $10K but that won't sell for that price too. 4wd, rb20 is the worse possible combo ever. Expect it to go to a new owner for about $7K if you get lucky.

omg uleh.. what happened to Campsie habib? You moved from Little Lebanon to Little Greece.. at least you're near water now. Although Bankstown River was also water... Good move. kinda...

^^ shut the hell up arsemonkey!!

$15K if you find a sucker who likes all that extra stereo shit. $13K would be a good asking price and you might get $12.5K for it. You'd make more off it if you sold it without all the stereo shit and sold that stuff off at hot 4s or something.

SPINR33GTS - I'm just gunna write down your user id here so that I make sure I don't look at a "R33 for sale" thread by you.

It might be cheaper to have your ECu re-chipped if you are going for a budget power (as in not looking to upgrade the turbo's..) GTR PFC seems to be under $1K these days. re-chip is about half that. If you are in Melbourne, Speak to Dr-Drift. If you are elsewhere and just keen to find out about it, speak to Ceffie on these forums.

What are you, a P plater from NS.com?

bahahaha... but they designed the car keeping in mind that people would replace the front pipe and remove the Cat convertor all together right? Brilliant.

2 things that I remember. I replaced my battery and it turned over ALOT quicker. = $120 CUBES on these forums has played with some setting on his PFC to make it start quicker too. less cranking time.. = $pfc dollars..

lol... I was just asking questions. was I rude in any way? I don't think I ruined your thread at all. I don't see why you can't say. Yes. I have receipts from Nissan Parts department for new pistons, rings, rods, bearings, gaskets, turbo, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, timing belt all totaling $xxxx and Yes, I have a receipt from workshop xyz for the assembly of the engine and puting it back in the car all for $xxxx all this work was done at xxxxxx kms and the car now has yyyyyy kms. I was simply asking for details of what you had already stated. why would you not openly state the workshop that did the work if you are recommending that the next owner goes to this shop. obviously you are happy with them. If you think that I have said something wrong on this thread, then please PM Blitz. he is a moderator on these forums and will remove my post if he believes that I have broken the rules. krzysiu - I agree.. I start shit. but show me where I've done that on this thread. I only asked simple questions like saying "got any pics"

lol... and the idler/tensioners etc etc.. the old "while your doing..." routine...

flex pipe is usually used in FWD cars or cars with engine in east west config. it essentially allows for the slight movement of the engine when you accelerate and back off etc. looks like this. On a front pipe, this would be at the point where the pipe bends towards under the car. so off the turbo, bend down towards the ground, then at the bend back up to run under the car is where it goes. it's to prevent exhaust from cracking at welds etc. if you look at your engine when you rev it, it will lean to one side and back when you get off the pedal. because most east west config engines have the exhaust at the front (some never ones have them at the back of the engine like the new Mazda 3 MPS), when you rev, the motors leans back and forth instead of left to right like a north south engine (eg RB and SR series of engines or any rwd car). the back and forward movement of the engine pulls and pushes the exhaust. the side to side movement doesn't cause this issue as

wow.. thread worthy!

apart from the plumber and leak issues, all the rest I've dealt with and yes.. very expensive to own your own house.. go interest rates go!!! The council gave me a valentines day present... Bill for $509 for this quarters rates. I do more mods to the house than the car these days. mulch this mow that plant this paint that purchase this instal that clean this pay that f**kers at Bunnings know me by first name..

^^ GTR I presume.. or are you throwing it out there that stock 6x270cc's from your RB20 managed to pull 230rwkw. which is 285kw at the engine. which is 382hp at the engine.

Not sure how you tested for boost leaks but here is a cheap way to do it and very effective. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html I'm sure almost everyone could make one of those..

^^^ that is the most helpful post ever in my 3,938 posts... and confirms the Baron and Abu.

Hi. Please see attached.

S14, R33, Nissan Maxima all have the same wheels. 16x6.5 R32 GTST rims are also of the same size and width and offset. S15 wheels are 16x6.5 also and will fit but their offset is wrong and will sit too far inside the guards. Z32 300zx wheels (turbo non turbo is the same) are 16x7.5 R32 GTR wheels are 16x8 and the offset is different again and will sit a little further out still in the guards but look better than the rest as it completely fills out the guards (as much as 16's can anyway). R33 GTR wheels?? I think are 17x9. (as are the R32 GTR Vspec wheels.. the BBS mesh type ones)

The stereo in my car was installed without a direct power or something so it resets every time you turn it off. and I'm too much of a noob to re-do the install. so. it is a perfect timer. and I start the car, get my bike on the back, bags in the boot, get in, belt on, in to reverse, and the radio says 12:02. drive it at below 3000rpm and by the time I get to the freeway, the time says 12:06 and the engine temp is on half. it has forged pistons too. it has done about 50K kms since rebuild and has 323,000kms on the clock.

which workshop put it together? receipts for parts from Nissan and labour from workshop?