TTT

^^^ I could swear this is a repost.

yes.. And Cat converters are only good for 40,000kms. it's a part that sits 20cm from the exhaust side of the turbo.. 800 odd degrees of heat, for 500hours.. I'm sure that's understandable.

the noise you want is as stated before. HKS SSQV or Greddy Type S (The pink one) If you search for the word BOV on this forum, you'll see why a couple of us make fun of it and lose patience with it all. long story short, an atmo venting bov (the ones you want) on a AFM equiped car (Skylines), will cause more problems than benefits. Your car will most likely stall. your car will most likely backfire between gearchanges. your car will most likely run rich in between gearchanges causing black marks on your rear bar. there actually is no benefit of an atmo venting bov at all. Only reason to do it is if you like the noise.

slave away big fella.. slave away..

why would he lie?

Put the RB20 motor in front of the door so that it doesn't close. buy RB26 put in car.

Andru - I'm sure you understand the term "How long is a piece of string". it's an obvious way of telling the other person that more information is needed and that there are ALOT of variables required to give some sort of educated guestimate/answer. You work and have uni 6 days a week. cool. therefore, you can hand over the cash to have your car built by a workshop. cool. nothing wrong with that. But what you are doing is passing second and third hand information to people. the work shop you are paying money to, tells you, "It will cost $10K and we will have your car producing 380rwkw" (example obviously). then you say, what will you be doing.. they say "we'll freshen up the rb30 bottom end with new rings and bearings etc, use X head gasket, use Y turbo at Z boost and tune it up and should give you the figures. you go.. cool. here's my number, ring me when done. like I said.. nothing wrong with that. then you come here and argue with the likes of R31_Nismoid who has actually had a hand in building his own motor/s. I'm not saying he assembled it himself. there are things you just can't do without a decked out workshop. Opinions are like arseholes... you know that saying as well right? It's just the way you GIVE your opinion on here that rubs people up the wrong way. You have not seen or experienced first hand what 300rwkw is like on an RB25. you have not had work done to your own RB25 to make 300rwkw. you are going by other peoples dyno results posted on an internet forum. how do you know it was EASY? How do you know if those RB25's were rebuilt or not? People don't always say what has happened to their engine due to "internet forum cred" or some shit. other people just don't want others to know that their EASY 300rwkw making RB25 actually popped. you quoted URAS yourself saying "I've seen them last for years and some last for months" so how can you not understand that this exact quote is the same as saying "how long is a piece of string"? While your searching the dyno results for easy 300rwkw rb25's, why not have a browse through these 12 pages.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...ure-t46581.html you were a noob (and in many ways we are all still noobs), so don't give out ill advice to other newer noobs.

you 2 should hook up! yeh like totally should get a place together..

what kinda of mexican DJ finishes work around 6pm...?

Fair enough. I just thought that you may have tested with a compressor and pressure on both sides of the bov and seen the leak yourself instead of just taking the word of a very experienced nissan mechanic who I doubt had any part in the creation/manufacture of the Mitsubishi bov. In the end, your bov works, is plumb back and doesn't cost much. perhaps you could do up a DIY How To thread on what you did to use your stock bov flange to mount the BOSCH unit. and what the BOSCH unit part number is (as you said there are 2 versions), how much you paid for it and where others can purchase it from.

Some good advice there from Andru - but still... your f**kheadness still manages to shine thru..

HOW TO GUIDE FOR BEST BOV NOISE....

couple of hundred extra RPM between stock and td05. in terms of coming on to boost that is. then the TD05 has a greater midrange, and greater top end. nothing stoping you from getting the best from the tdo4 first though.. except the cost of 2 tunes. Brakes are already 4 piston and about 300mm discs. good pads and good fluid would be a good place to start, and not too expensive. Don't do the ecu flash thing. well unless more places other than MRT do it these days. PFC would also be my choice.

Can I ask how you came to the conclusion that the stock one was leaking? as in, the seal between valve and seat. how did you test this? are you sure the difference you noticed wasn't the fact that you went from a bov with the bleed hole (stock one) to a bov without this hole?

His only real option is Justcars. premium will be massive. hopefully he will still consider paying it to cover his car. or it will be yet another stolen thread.

HKS SSQV Greddy Type S (The pink one) MONZA (hks copy)

Sl33py - don't give out legal advice dude.. Insurance company will find a way to void insurance without a doubt. it's hard enough to actually get a claim done without dodgy loop holes like this.

I wasn't refering to the spelling error.. I was refering to you thinking the RB stands for Race Bred. It doesn't. I stands for nothing. other wise SR20 would be known as SOMETHINGS RATTLING... What's wrong with those wheels are the size. 20 inch wheels are for Gangstas on their hummers. 8.5 inch wide wheels are for gangstas who can't get wide wheels on their cars due to the fact that they got such large diameter wheels (20's y0!) Performance wheels need not be larger than 18x10. in most cases where you haven't got brake discs bigger than what stock Brembo's are, 17's are fine. 17x9 on the rear and 17x8 on the front are perfect for 255 on the rear and 235 on the front. this gives great traction, and doesn't throw off the speedo reading. AND, you can get good quality tyres for cheap compared to 20x8.5. You answered your own BOV question there.. the stock item is a good thing. You'll see posts by user The_Mafia on here about his 314rwkw using stock bov. And I will guarantee that if you have a electronic noise adjusting, coffeee making, $700 bov in your engine bay, set to 100% plumback and the cop looks at your engine bay, you will receive a defect notice.. some guy on these forums has just started a thread about it and how he was defected for it. same magical bov too. I will not ask how you wrote off 2 underpowered fwd cars. however, I am curious to know if you have ever been in a skyline, driven a skyline, and driven a skyline in anger. if so to any of the above, what motor and power?

If you keep the stock Turbo on the rex (TD04), you will not have lag. it will be slightly doughy compared to the RB25 at revs below 2500rpm, but still, it's not as bad as you'd think. the downside of the stock turbo is, the max power you will make is about 150-160awkw at most. and that will be at boosts of around 18psi. (all of the above figures are once tuned with the PFC as you said) some work on suspension and antisway bars and anti lift kits etc will have the rex handling pretty good in the situations you talk about. AND, keeping the stock turbo with that sort of power, and using a NON BUTTON clutch, will have the gearbox stay in one piece even after hard launches as there is always some slip in non button clutches... an STI top mount IC would be pretty good. and while it is off, upgrade the "Y" pipe (turbo to intercooler pipe) to an STI aluminium item or an aftermarket Silicon one. You could also invest in an STI IC water spray kit. Don't lower the car any more than say 1-1.5 inches and you won't hit anything, you don't get hassled, you won't ruin the handling. if you do decide to upgrade turbo, cheapest option is a TD05, this turbo on same mods as above and same boost will bring power close to 180awkw and not too much lag.. maybe 400-500rpm extra. other than that, the turbo upgrades get expensive. many in the VF range to choose from like the STI stock turbo and most peoples favourite VF34. The EJ engines are pretty reliable. Mine has 323,000kms on it. (was rebuilt about 50,000kms ago due to the previous owner doing alot of long distance trips and wanted peace of mind.) I think you'll enjoy the change from rwd to 4wd and 2 door to 4 door. Very important.!!! Do not buy an exhaust with a cannon muffler. do not buy an exhaust that DOESN'T have a centre muffler. these things can really Drone is the exhaust isn't done right. My one keeps it's mouth shut as I have a factory STI muffler bolted to the rear. flows plenty but is almost factory quiet.

sad.. but it was common when I got in to cars.. back when Gemini's were the rage..

I agree that we don't agree.! after proof of one member with 314rwkw using stock bov, you still don't agree that there is nothing wrong with the stock item? and you will still recommend a BOSCH bov over a GTR bov (same price if not cheaper) where at least one member has a proven 350rwkw using a single GTR bov? Won't even bother comparing the stock Dual gtr bov to this comparo. You say alloy to alloy is not a perfect seal. what is your BOSCH bov made of? the last one I bought many years ago, had a plastic body, and the sealing valve was also plastic and it sat ON TOP of the hole.. it didn't even have a seat for the valve like the stock skyline one does. The version you are talking must be different to th one I had or replacement for stock SAAB item as they are shitty items. they do not hold over 15psi. perhaps you've got a pic of your one?

1.) BOSCH do not make a direct fit bov for the RB series of engines. They will require an adapter, then a new return hose as the stock one will not reach. 2.) They are only good for about 15psi of boost after which they leak. 3.) the sotck skyline bov (mitsubishi unit) is designed to leak as you have said but not leak in the way you hae meant it. it is designed to leak a little to make the transition from on/off boost and off/on boost, smooth. so the car doesn't jerk when you boost up and back off a little but not completely, or when you are cruising then plant your foot. The_Mafia - a user on here is using the stock bov on his RB25. his car makes 314rwkw at 18 psi or some shit (he says it at every oportunity he gets but I still forget it). There are numerous other cars that make a lot of power on stock bov. if you are worried about the little leak hole in the stock bov used for smooth operation on/off boost, then you simply use a small screw to block it and it is the same as your BOSCH bov. If you believe that you will make more power than the proen amount that the user above makes or use more boost, and you still believe that the bov will leak (even though it can't due to the fact that there is equal pressure on both sides of the bov piston while under boost), then you can use the backyard method of CRUSHING the top of the bov a little to help it hold more boost. If you want to make even more power, then for the $70 you were going to spend on a BOSCH bov, you can purchase a single GTR bov (they have 2 standard and each is larger than the stock GTST one) and bolt that straight on to the stock GTST bov position. R31_Nismoid on here makes over 350rwkw with 1 single GTR bov. if you are going to make even more power than that, then the dual STOCK GTR bovs have been used in 600HP+ supras and even more powerful GTR's. the pair will cost you about $150 but will obviously need to have a mount fabricated and return lines for plumback. but at that level, that is small money. so. BOSCH is useless on a skyline. they are good on SAAB, some Subaru's, Lancer GSR and some early Evo's.

Don't take this the wrong way but I have a few questions. How long have you had your license and have you had a turbo rwd car before? Not trying to put you down. But when I saw this.. and this and then this I immediately assume that you have just finished your Provisional License, have never owned a rwd turbo car or Nissan of any sort. I also assume you've done some research on these forums or car mags as you've bothered to get details and price of correct pistons. If you have never owned a turbo rwd car before, then may I just suggest that you buy the car first and do the usual simple mods. exhaust, filter, cooler, boost and ecu to tune. on an R34 GTT, the above will give you about 220rwkw. That is a fair whack of power. probably enough to run a 12 second pass. replacing injectors and turbo and AFM will get you to the next level of about 250-260rwkw. that is serious power for most if not ALL street cars. even at that level, unless you have great suspension and really good quality tyres of at least 255 wide, you are going to struggle for traction on most gears. And I might also mention that at that level, you haven't needed a rebuild etc etc. you will need clutch and suspension and wheels and tyres etc which you don't seem to account for in your $10K spending money. there are a few people with this sort of power. it might be a good idea to have one of them take you for a spin in it. of course, if you have already had that sort of power and have had rwd turbo cars, all of the above is wasted intrweb space..

lol at 100rwkw with T88 at 5000rpm.

well done.. sponsorship is awesome. top work