260tech

Thanks Yudi, goldfields WA. On map............just. Broadband- bogpond.com

Thanks mate.

Thanks Bass, sounds good to me. 260tech out.

Interest also posted, F@#K nose where, hopeyagotit.

Jus flopped onto this thread again. Trust all went swimmingly on honeymoon/shopping trip(?) I'm still keen, just put me down for whatever you think I need for my 260RS Stagea please. Series 1 or series 2 (is series 2 schmickter? Better design?) I dunno the dif cos I've really only taken a close look at mine. Biased/one eyed/whatever I guess. Radiator fan was on it when I got it from Nippon so assume it is standard for the Autech. Dunno. Would really like one with the scoop jobbie but don't like angle grinder artwork. No sir, doan wanna be in that. Anyway if need be please re-check my pics earlier post. I dunno how to shift them round & can't find 'ridginels.

Hi Gary, pm sent...............at last. Stay well, holidays are really unhealthy you know. To be avoided, cost money.

Just found this, BIG intah-coolah, nice hard piping, interesting oil filter relocation, (gunna have a look at mine) Anyone know what that shiny box is up where Attessa gear goes? Oil catch can? WTF are eyelids?

Arrrrrrrrrgh! I live in the woods, don't have local friendly Greddy dealer, lucky to be able to buy BP Ultimate to be truthful soooooooooo.............no chance of posting the part number so can just specify & buy correct kit via internet. Yup, we do have data connection to the rest of the world. God bless Telstra.

Good luck with the wiring thing/mission fella, I had no idea there was so much s$%t under there, should be easy for a decent auto=sparkie, plus bonus Saki hey? On another (completely unfocused from your immediate challenge, sorry) subject; Don't suppose you could post details/part #/Kit#supplier/source/where can I get one of these easyfit things from kindof info for your oil filter relocation setup by any chance. That is if you haven't already done this worthy deed in which case apologies & maybe point me in the right die-rection 'cos a "Graham look" didn't do it for me. Cheers GW

Pm'd you on the (bugger, can't remember.............a while back) dunno ifya got the message but I would like;

Done a search of the forum this arvo guys, (had a Graham look) was wondering if this issue was resolved? If so could one of you gurus check this out for me please? VIN6U900WGNC34108837 Need it I think to help "the Batmobile" sell me a cat. Thankyou in advance???????????

Dunno if you have solve this dilemma but for what its worth ($5500) I'm pretty sure Horsepowerinabox was selling an RB26 reconned short block $5500 assembled, readit today actually. Price: $5,500.00 inc GST within Australia QTY: RB26 Short Motor machined and ready for assembly This is a fresh RB26 short motor with all the gear. It is machined and ready for assembly. Price includes assembly, and shipping within Australia is $250. Parts included; RB26 Block - stress relieved - Hot Tanked - line honed for ARP Studs - Bore and Hone - Decked Crank reground to specified clearance for oil clearances GTR Rods - Resized big and small ends - ARP Rod Bolts Venolia Pistons N1 Rings N1 Bearings rod and main N1 Harmonic Balancer Rotating assembly balanced Assembled

Round our way Messrs Marlin & Winchester have got it sussed, populationwise that is. JUST KIDDING GUYS!

Maybe this place can lyten ya wallet? http://stores.ebay.com.au/PERFORMANCE-WISE

You Guys............OK 1: I have owned it for 6 months & have only driven it ~ six times. 2: Dunno what to buy first for my baby. 3: Only way to find out is to pull the bugger apart to see whatz already been done. 4: Dunno what to buy first for my baby! That is all.............bugger!

Just found this thread whilst browsing, probably dead & buried now but for the record, fellas if nail polish works short term then electric motor winding varnish may work even betterer? 3M put out a product, real sticky stuff, available from your friendly electrical supplier, (rexell, auslec etc) that sparkies use all the time when reco-ing electric motor field windings & armatures, comes in your handy spraypak, (shake well) can be a watery reddish color, takes a while to dry but is good stuff never the less. Maybe worth a try for those that don't want to go Splitfire or to eliminate/determine if coilpaks are causing misfire problems. Can't remember temperature range (50deg C wet) but electric motors do run warm. Don't forget to mask off the bits you want to keep on conducting before spray-paking & as always, remove all oil & grease. Just found a can of what I was waffling about (Scotch 3M 1602 - red/1603 is black) in the shed, looking at the ingredients it would pay to try a dob on a small area or an old coil first in case it attacks the coilpak coating. Could be a bit savage Acetone etc.,

Any chance of advice on semi-bullet-proof clutch mate? Just in case I get the urge? Don't seem much point havin them horses & not be able to whip'em in an emergency without getting egg on ya face?

Can't find a response to your post Y-C so at the risk of stickn my neck out, here's my 2 bobs worth & hope it helps. Having looked at my D-Jetro harness & instructions which just happen to include boost control install. If you have Apexi Boost control kit part # 415-A001, but D-Jetro harness then pg 12 in my manual for D-Jetro part # 414-AN026 install shows one solenoid 3 port/2 way & one pressure sensor part # 499-X001 or Denso # DPS-310-2000A (I suspect) If you bought the D-Jetro Pfc as well then ya should have at least 2 of these items. The centre pin on these items (pressure sensors) is the output signal in volts (range of 0-4.5vdc maybe) for given manifold input boost pressure. for D-Jetro install they are gunna replace manifold/mass air flow meters, so if you want to use your MAF's you need those 2 wires shown in your posted diagram as cut to remain intact else goodbye maf input(s). The way I read it the input signal (centre pin) on your white plug is the pressure input to Pfc for boost pressure measurement signal. So, yes imo you can add the centre pin/wire to this plug to hookup your pressure sensor to monitor boost pressure. Just need to tick the box to tell Pfc that boost is available before ya crank up. You also have to add it (green or blue) at the pressure sensor end of harness (black plug?) if not installed (not sure what your harness looks like) or if installed trace it out & locate in 3 pin plug into Pfc side port as you suggested. (green or blue wire) The 2 outer wires on the plug (red & black hopefully) you have are to provide +ve & -ve power to your pressure sensor sourced from Pfc via white plug/side port. The spare sensor wire & black plug left outta all this just tape up for when you upgrade to D-Jetro Pfc then flog complete spare harness to the needy. Well that's one end sorted with any luck. All ya gotta do is the other end. "The drilling" Sorry to be so long winded but I dunno how much info you have or need so ya got the lot rattling around in my pea brain. Cheers.

Nah, sorry Mike. My knowledge is limited to research into D-Jetro 'cos I bought one & discovered it was all Jap to me. Don't suppose you keep in touch with your boarder? Or his sister maybe? BOV choice would come further down the track when u zero in on exhaust setup wouldn't it. You could always checkout the tech faqs on this forum & then the "for sales" on this forum. There would be heaps of guys out there that could advise you otherwise I'm sure. If they could get over the thought of a 26 in a Z car. Me, I'm up for anything into anything if that's whatya wanna do & may the force of your motor be with you.

This discussion is for install on twin turbo RB26DETT setup. English translation for Powerfc? Not gunna happen Mike unless you pay for it yourself as far as I can work out anyway. These Apexi ecus' are touted for domestic consumption only therefore no need for instructions in heathen tongue. However, having studied my instructions at some length & being in the same boat as you (linguistically challenged) I have come to the following conclusions. 1. Page 15 diag., shows the inlet manifold disassembled but I doan wanna do that. 2. Page 16 diag., shows location of sensor tapping points offset from tdc approx 30degs either side of centre on cylinders 3 & 4, possibly immediately adjacent to injector inserts but definitely on that piece of hardware. (Engine side of throttle bodies) Point 2 on this page gives tapping drill size for 1/8"NPT nipples as 8.4~8.5mm which sounds & measures up good enough. 3. Page 17 diag., goes into some detail to show you that the sensor nipple whilst being drilled & tapped into these locations suggests that you should not screw the nipple in so far as to protrude into the manifold passage & disrupt air/fuel mist flow characteristics. Good idea. Like flush with inner wall is ideal & as far as you should go with fitting nipple. For my money it also suggests you should use a quality heat & solvent resistant thread sealant. I would go further to use a sealant that does not set solid as you may want to remove nipples later & don't wanna be ripping aluminum thread out whilst doing so. 4. Page 19 diag., shows sensor transmitters fitted to injector harness shroud at locations close by cyl 3 & 4 tapping points. Another good idea as impulse lines generally speaking are best kept as short as possible. All good so far but it is up to you to work out how to attach transmitters to injector harness shroud. Some tune shops use cable ties. Tacky but I have not decided what I will do yet. Because I don't want to disassemble inlet manifold down to the last nut & bolt I am in the process of deciding how to attack the actual drilling of manifold in place. Accurately. Twice. With a big fat metal ripping drill. There is another option which is to use a FESTO 5mm threaded portion/4mm tube connection (part # 3562, type CK-M5-4) instead of the nipple supplied in which case you can do the deed with a much narrower diameter drill. 5mm tapping size, possibly around 4mm drill size. The internal diameter of both these fittings is around 2mm so no drama there. FESTO products are used most often in the Food/drug production industry on electro-pneumatic control systems. (Know anyone in electro/mech maintenance at the breweries Mike)? Else Google for Aust., supplier in your area. These fittings come ali or steel. I would pick steel for strength as they are somewhat delicate in you knock them with a spanner. Anyway whatever I do the first exercise is to precisely mark (centre punch) & drill (pilot hole) for eventual final sized tapped sensor point. To do this I will need a longer than standard twist drill bit & may even hand drill with egg beater arrangement so's to have total control of swarf & when to stop. Having drilled to final diameter the rest should b a p of p. Apart from small matter of wiring into 2nd AFM input when instructions give physical pin locations & not pin numbers. Just have to trust 'em I guess. PS: I have heard a rumour that some back sliders tap only one hole &/or tee into an existing vacuum line off the manifold but I have yet to discover the exact vacuum point. In any event I am reluctant to part out $200 on something that is plugnplay. Happy to fork out for dyno tuning time but. See photo's of RB26DETT manifold in place for locations. Happy drilling.

Hey Bass, can u give me price & del to Post Code 6432 for a deflector unpainted for my 260 s1 please. Dunno if I can fit scoop jobby, fan might clash. See pics. Please advise.

Mick Martin at SVI in QLD did the deed in sourcing 260 but..........Hah! Me dumb! Thort Chocolate Factory was back where we went throo that little village/market in the boonies, 2-4km before Gt E Hiway? When we hit Gt Eastern Hiway off Seabourne & I realised where we were I thought to self ; self, too many people back there & no parking, we must be skipping factory & going on to Whiteman Park. Don't tell Ann. She was hangin out for chocolate. Lucky she don't read maps/instructions & even luckier she's not on the net. PS: Called on a few places to talk about D-Jetro install into 260 on Friday & Saturday, which was other half of reason to come down. You can talk to people on the phone but those guys play it pretty close to the cuff, or do not have on tap/ control of info or have closed up or are into something other than Apexi. Still no further ahead really so will be back down for sure. After further research!

Give Mick Martin a ring at SVI in Brisbane/silverwater(?) he should know about airbox issues cos he did mine back in September '06. BTW compliers get buckets of money for sorting all this crap out so you can have the car you paid for in the first place. lol

Yup, we enjoyed ourselves too Kirsty, nice to meet you & your family, a good run & great to see some nice cars all in a row, cruising & parked. Got home about 5pm in one piece so it's all good. Took pics but hi res camera so maybe mail them if ya want, dunno how they came out yet as I haven't checked. Seeya all down the track. GW

Be brave, take the time off & your digital camera. Instruct compliers to change fluids to your specs, get transit papers from relevant authority ($160 in QLD) get temporary insurance ($couple of hundred maybe from Suncorp, may have been $60 - can't remember) & go for it. Make sure you's well behaved as the cops hate beautiful cars with no plates, think yer a drug runner or something (is my experience). take nice passenger to be witness to all the fun you will have. A once in a lifetime opportunity maybe? Drove my Stagea Brisbane to WA on my own, could have used a witness in Bourke NSW, got some great pics anyhow but just haven't figured out how to post them without swamping the forum, give it a go and post' em up champ.