260tech

Sounds like you is what is called a panel beater over here Andi. R34 front end conversion should be right up your strasse. Good luck with the mods & welcome. GW

Power steering belt replaced on the 260, took 3 days lol. (Lazy b$%td) 940 came off, was shredding not completely foobah. 960 on hand..........too long. 925 on hand...........way too short. Bought another 940.....................effin tight as to fit but works OK. Hindsight suggests 945 or 950. Amen. GW

You could start by checking out the consolidated workshop thread maybe? Not sure how current it is but.

Bugger!

Coventrys, Repco, Supercrap, Google for starters for generic product suppliers. Exhaust studs. And tube of Never-sieze!

What he said. Trickle charge via solar. If you decide to do this then trickle charger needs to supply a similar amount of energy/current measured (calculated) over a 24 hour period that is drawn off by your connected accessories of course. (Real solar panel performance is another can of worms btw). If you decide to disconnect for longer idleness then make sure battery is fully charged first. (90 ~ 95%). This could take 48 hours or more. Caution, basic chargers can do terminal damage to your good battery (plates buckling/sulphating) if you leave it on charge for too long. Most charging to get you going will only bring the battery up to ~ 70% within 6 ~ 12 hours & a nice green light on your battery charger which is enough to kick engine over with reasonable spark but it is not really enough charge for storage purposes or laying around idle running clocks, immobilisers & other accessories without daily boost from driving. Once fully charged it (battery) will/should happily sit for up to 6 months in your engine bay or somewhere else, out of the way of little fingers in a milk crate off the floor/concrete. My 2c. Cheers, GW

What Jase & John say. Last humans to touch mine was wheel alignment mob. Either way after market suspension parts need to be carefully checked for any irregularities as routine part of servicing imho, Especially lhs., which gets hammered even in a straight line anyway, if you are on shite road surfaces or driving hard more often than not. Which means quite a few of us I reckon. I would have found my problem before it let go if I had paid more attention as it is a gradual thing in development of loosening bolt bits, clunks & rubbing noises. Mine was scheduled for inspection/alignment with a suspension mob when it let go. Noises are not to be ignored, they don't care about appointments lol. Also look for cracks on standard parts if you upgrade swaybars/springs/shocks. (Most of us yeh?) I have Whiteline solid adjustable swaybars plus Bilstein/Eibach shocks/spring setup. All that extra resistance to movement during cornering is great but was still transferred through bracket pictured below ~ on my bus. Maybe there is an upgraded bracket on the market, dunno. Found this crack during replacement job after fail on highway. This is the mounting bracket for one end (LHS) of front swaybar drop link to strut. Crack had been there for some time, was already previous looking & rusty, new damage caused by strut dropping on to front axle was nice & shiny, (resting on swaybar bracket) & staying in place thank f^&k, until car pulled up. We were lucky. Cheers, GW

Cusco one piece front uppers, for ease of fitment. 5 months. Because these ones decided to come apart. Cheers, GW

You will see what the locators are for when you get your cylinder head back champ. Cheers & good luck with the build. GW

You will see what the locators are for when you get your cylinder head back champ. Cheers & good luck with the build. GW

Thanks for the response. I will hit Toyota tomorrow. GW

Mine are straight, clear of anything dangling, if your originals are straight the new jobs should fit one way or another being adjustable. Cheers, GW

I wish to know where to buy the above items, M10 fine thread. Aka Crown lock nuts, partial torque, uni-torque, Grover, Auto, Automotive, Elliptical offset to name the descriptors that I have found so far. (Flanged or non-flanged). I have searched the net & SAU in vain to find an Australian supplier or source reference. Can buy by the 100cwt., out of China lol. Or ; Does anyone have a part number for OEM Nissan M10 X 1.25 cone lock nuts or flared cone lock nuts? That could work. Yes I could use spring washers or nylocs but would prefer same as what was present on my suspension if possible. Thanks for reading. GW

Happened to me a couple of months ago, only when turning to the right under some load. Couldn't figure out if it was coming from left front or left rear. Was going to book it into a suspension joint but something came up that needed car to do a quick trip. About 100kms short of destination this happened. See attached pic(s). Got a phone call from my son who was doing the trip to say (briefly) that he knew what the noise was & could I arrange a tow truck 'cos his cell phone was going flat. Seems my after market upper outer suspension bush bolt/nut combo had slowly worked loose & finally let go under rather hairy circumstances. Fortunately son was not injured, managed to pull the beast up & get off the road before demolition by other road users could occur. The fix for me has been to fit Cusco upper front camber arms, to replace the damaged item. Moral : Hearing unexpected noises when rolling/cornering/whatever from outside of vehicle? Get on a hoist asap & go over yer nuts & bolts. Meticulously. Question I have is; does anyone know where to buy M10 fine thread grade C, 9~10 cone/crown/auto/automotive/Grover/partial torque/uni-torque/elliptical offset/stove type locking nuts in small quantities. I need two, for a sway-bar drop link which needed replacing. (also damaged during incident). I can buy some from China in 300kg lots but really don't need that many lol. I will post this question again when I figure out the appropriate forum. Cheers, GW

Pretty sure you assume correctly. Else I have missed out on a lot of Dolphjn/Nismo bargains over the years. Cheers GW

Sounds like a pain in the butt. First thing I'd be looking at .................. if I was going down the camber path to address the problem is, how much space do you have on the rears between inner wall & damper strut? Will it be enough to give required comfort clearance between outer rear tyre wall & rolled guard, while retaining happy strut clearance? Also, while camber may solve clearance issues it often causes premature tyre wear. If camber is a viable option (acceptable negative camber vs wear rate) then you could look at adjustable bushes from Whiteline (+/- 0.5 deg) as maybe cheapest option. Alternatively Cusco or Ikeya-Formula for more camber if Whiteline not enough. Second thing is (shudder) think about going to narrower tyre profile/wheel package. This could in reality be cheapest option in the long run. My 2c. Cheers GW

Hi there, pics of the end fittings or of complete hoses, front & rear perhaps? On my 260RS the front braided lines were easily sourced from Japan however the rears had an odd mounting block type fitting at each end which I could not find in braided configuration. My solution was to use R33 GTR style all round & make custom brackets for the rear lines, doing away with the block to chassis weird end fitting. Also, I have a surplus pair of new unused Nismo front braided lines part number 46200-RSR45. These may only fit wgnc34 260RS. (Dunno) Open to horse trading. Did this little exercise a few years ago now, 2007 & have had no issues. Some say it is naughty to mess with things (brakes) that should be ADR approved so my suggestion is you go with what Dale said earlier. Maltech in Victoria do braided lines for the people who want them. Could probably pin down your leak no doubt, at the same time. From the pics attached you will see my problem hopefully. I could only source rear braided lines with a mounting block on one end & conventional round connection on the other, hence rear bracket mods. I did go to Maltech for some trial rear lines, sent my old rubber lines as a pattern but the supplied result was unsatisfactory. I could not stop them weeping fluid so I sent them back. I realise the answer in the workshops is to reef the tube nuts up until the connections stop misbehaving but this was anathema to me. (wrong) Besides, I had already tightened them up as far as I was prepared to go without stripping the tube nuts. Tread your own path as they say. Cheers GW

Gidday Andrew, car looks clean, love the green, enjoy. GW

Hi Jarrod & welcome. Why not buy a clean 260RS straight up & be done with it? For a while at least. Cheers GW

Pic fail for me champ, try again?

Give Andrew a call at Hyperdrive, 92093100 15 Vale Street, Malaga ( was last time I dropped in) My 2c GW

Sadly true. The really big issue is that there is a nationwide skills shortage. No doubt about it. The reason for this (imhpo, p=personal, o=observation) was that somewhere in the federal system the priority for building for the future in the home grown skilled labour department was downgraded. Fiscal support at a State & federal level slowly eroded/reduced? (Dunno) What I do know is that I have watched this situation evolve (with increasing impotence) over the last 20 years. It started with a reduction in the number of trades apprenticeships on offer within the industry I was working in nationally back in 1990 give or take a year or so. At about the same time or within a couple of years, the education system stream-lined it's portfolio to reduce the number of failures on the student rolls in high schools. The trades councils, possibly as a result of lower education leaving standards (complaints from those employers still trying to find potential apprentices using the old standards) decided that it was not necessary to have A or B in the three R's nor do 4, 5 ~ 6 year apprenticeship to become a journeyman (electrician & motor winder, Fitter & turner/machinist, plumber & drain-layer, blacksmith/boilermaker, coded welder), the trades were dumbed down, split up, short coursed to the point that you have what you have today. A serious shortage of in-depth skilled Australian labour, It even became OK for the average bloke to change a plug on a kettle cord. Not that I'm saying it should be done by a tradesman, I use it as an example of a much deeper malaise insofar as the emphasis on trade related skills & possession/attainment of same is concerned. So, if major hi-tech projects require people who have attained their "O" levels (are well grounded in a basic education) & have gone on to trade school & really got down to the nitty gritty of what the chosen trade is about because they want too or cannot afford Uni., then they are currently not produced here in Aussie (there are many exceptions that are no doubt fuming reading this, my apologies) as a general rule of thumb nor will they be until employers take on the responsibility & start some serious federal agitation for change of direction in the education system, instead of accepting what is on offer or importing/short-cutting for expedience. In the meantime the answer is to import the necessary skills required & let someone else do the hard yards, cop the expense of solid education & skills training. My 2c (end rant). Cheers, GW

A reputable paint & panel shop should be able to tell you if the seals are stuffed & fix you up or adjust your windows if that is all that is required. Cheers GW

Would like one of those myself, most common option I have seen is to go for a one-piece Dolphin front. Cheers GW

They appear to be both the same Stooge, '94 ~ 99 (A32) series. You could do what I did; Drive to Strut fitting place, find service guy, have cup of coffee, pay money (maybe $80) & leave. The struts I was sold were Maxima jobs according to my man. I posted the part numbers here somewhere a few years ago admittedly but can't find post now. (See sig., it's a personal problem ) The service guy will run a tape measure over the originals for length of stroke & read off/work out the newton metres force (gas charge x piston D/d or something), swap over the original clips & you are done. That's for the fronts, bonnet. The boot lid struts were more of a challenge, I had to get them from Sons of Nippon. Or maybe; The nice Strut Specialist service guy might just ID your original struts for you so you can go buy them somewhere else cheaper? My 2c GW