260tech

Yup! One turbo instead of two is gunna be a bit obvious to the compliance mob, however upgraded clutch & suspenxion is most acceptable . My car arrived with improved intake/exhaust system plus aftermarket wheels. The car was made standard for compliance & because I had paid for "the other bits", I kept them. Good luck with your import. Cheers GW

Yup. Post up your ride. There are no dumb questions....anywhere.....ever! But there are many an unhelpful answer. Keep that in mind Chris, the forum is here to help fellow believers. There are owners from all over the auto spectrum on here, some have "the knowledge", some don't. None have all the answers, this is how the forum works in a positive way, by sharing that collective knowledge. I bet you every one of us has learnt something of value from this information source, else we would'nt be here in the first place. End of the day nobody knows everything & heaps of other silent members on here learn from the questions & answers that are posted, without ever having to ask the question (& draw attention to) themselves. My 2c Cheers GW

Quote] That said, I can't imagine that it would make much difference after a while would it? [unquote] Hey Tim, I've worked with engineers of many disciplines (electrical, mechanical, chemical, process, corrosion, computor, metallurgy) for f#$kn years in many different industries. Over that time the only people who actually give a flying f!@k about where they went/got educated is/was themselves. All we sorry-arsed plebs cared about was if they were any good at their job or just plain d~!kheads. Cheers & good luck with your chosen career, whatever it turns out to be. GW

Yer secret location ain't gunna stay secret much longer if you insist on developing your ideas in public & yes the popo do have radar detector detectors (RDD's) Well worth the investment from their point of view when the fine is/was $1205 plus forfeit of offending detector, back in 2006 (NSW) I hate to think what the fine is now. Recently I have seen something advertised (www.dontgetcaught.com.au)? that facilitates parking in tight spots. Perfectly legal but this device has a couple of beneficial side effects apparently. I have no personal experience of this & have not seen one demonstrated but it may be worth a look? Cheers GW

That could be a bit of a mission.............."With GPS I can calibrate speed" In that my take on the exercise would be........ 1) The pointer will be pulled to start with, 2) the cluster will be connected but not secured, 3) the vehicle will be in motion at maybe 20~30kph to establish your "live zero point", 4) the driver will be in the driver seat driving/steering, 5) the work space is in the driver seat & behind the steering wheel. 6) the pointer (a fiddly little thing) will need to be tapped firmly onto spindle at the correct rate of knots in correct spot, no parallax error? No doubt you have sussed it out somehow. Just wondering how you would achieve that, is all? Good luck with it anyway. Cheers GW

Seems like you know enough. You should be able to compress shocks under steady downward force, with a reasonable amount of effort. The quicker the action/ (ompression/extension), the greater the resistance/effort required to achieve compression/extension. If you can do the job with ease both quick & slow, they are stuffed. FYI, my take on how shock absorbers function. Shock absorbers work on passing a volume of oil or gas either side of a sealed piston arrangement from one reservior to another via a restrictor (valve or series of valves). If the seal on the piston(s) is not able to do it's job & hold pressure, (dodgy/leaking/lost fluid~gas/worn cylinder walls, etc.,) then damping medium will not go were it should (via valve/restrictor) but just pass faulty sealing arrangement back into the reservior it came from. My 2c Cheers GW

Trolley jack for power assist + large lever thingy, gemmy, tyre lever, FnB screw driver.

Yes & there is plenty of chat in the howto section I think. Try this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...ts-t104463.html

I have not used gaffa or any other tape myself in a situation such as you are in. I would be trying it if all my other cunning plans failed however before I hired a towie. The tape thing is it depends on : 1. How far you intend to travel, 2. How well you do the temporary tape job, 3. How hard you drive the car to the mechanic & so on. You will of course check/observe the effectiveness of your temporary repair (if you go down this path) before you launch from the comfort of your own driveway, wont you? But just soften that pipe up, move it into position & refit your hose clamps or some clamps that can be fully opened & re-threaded round your manifold without the dramaa of squeezing them through gaps that they don't wanna go through. Cheers GW

Like he says, get some lube on the job. I use CRC 808 Silicone Spray (in a can) You should be able to get that from any autoparts store or even hardware/Bunnings possibly. This stuff will revitalise old rubber/compound material, good for lots of jobs around older vehicles (about $15/can) Something else worth trying is to warm that pipe up to soften it, make it more pliable til it cools down. Wrap some towelling round it & wet the cladding with the old kettle of boiling water. Take care not to fill manifold up, maybe cover up gaps to internals with some gaffa tape temporarily, can probably use gaffa tape to get car to mechanic if you are still in trouble. Carefully driven of course. My 2c Cheers GW PS: Once the flexible pipe is in position, could you not completely open hose clamps, pass around pipe work then rejoin?

Send wife? PO Box 2161 Boulder WA Or has this already been suggested? Sorry, haven't read whole thread.

Upgrade to "better oil pump". This mod will improve oil delivery to the moving parts than present pump is capable (of). As I read it in the threads, oil problems are from poor gravity return to sump via standard oil return paths from rocker/cam dept., therefore more efficient pump is just going to accentuate existing oil return problem. (pump more up whilst allowing standard amount to return to sump) No doubt you are aware of this but. My 2c GW PS: I have sump baffle plate (Nismo from memory) & oil restrictor in head. Not tracking my beast, just a little peace of mind.

Strapon Schnapon........never heard of the brand. Snapon yes but super pricey. Snapon have some special tools (stud extractors, hss burrs for example) which are not available in the quality/durability from cheaper brands but I only ever go shopping there if I have a problem that cannot be solved by other suppliers. I use Sidchrome, Minimax, Kinchrome, KCTools. Bottom line is if you skimp on quality in the tool dept., you could well damage bits (including knuckles) which you wish to re-use. Not to mention the time expended rectifying damage caused by inferior tools. Some of my best/handiest gadgets are those ratchet ring & open-ender spanners (Kinchrome/KCtools) short & long versions. Maybe $130/set but sometimes they are on special. If you are using airtools for nuts/bolts I would be using the six sided sockets, saves destroying nuts/bolts/bits you want to re-use. A set of pipe spanners for remove/fit tube nuts has been very helpful to me. Saves a lot of damage & gnashing of teeth. And.....I would not even entertain the thought of modifying cheap lifting equipment. Buy the right gear for the job, correctly rated & Aust approved. Much safer for you & visitors. My 2c. Cheers, GW

It may be OK if the popo/govt., channel the fines from P platers into some sort of compulsory advanced driver training for P platers so that they (Pp's) have a chance of gaining driver skills suitable on eligibility to the so-called HPV arena. Positive feedback, pro-active policing, along the lines of the "Bluelite Disco" scene, or Police & Citizens Youth Club (for drivers), call it what you like. At the moment it's all negative (seems to me) for P platers. Launching them with a liscense, curfews & labels & any vehicle on the road just cos they can is & should not be the point where the authorities wipe their hands of further skills training & start fining people. My 2c GW

Don't think I am an impulse buyer but my daughter sure is. When I try to talk sense to her she says' and I quote, "Don't ask impulsive people to be patient.........it only confuses them". Dunno if this is original but it cracked me up! Cheers GW

Buy a schmick bodied (no rust) GTR & transfer all your gear, or, wrap it in plastic & wait for the financial climate to turn around, else, "suck it and see". Maybe ask "Guilt-toy" what side of the road they drive on in the USSR? My 2c Best of luck whatever path you eventually choose. GW

Check out Sydneykid's suspension thread, (stickied) All the info in there. Cheers GW PS: Bilsteins are not standard on Stagea's so suspension has already been changed, probably ride height has been optimised at the same time?

We did an install on a GTIR a while back. Pulled the front bits off, mounted the ic & pipes then marked out where they looked like they wanted to go throo (with reference to other immovable objects). To make hole used something big enough to get hacksaw blade in then followed the marked line. Handjob.

Bugger. Think of your gearbox as a hi speed concrete mixer for oil. That foreign body is going to be ground down to about 50 microns in a very short time if in the process it don't cause a catastrophic failure. If it was me that piece has got to be removed before the Getrag spins again. Weigh the cost of a rebuild against the cost of a "box out of car" inspection. Cheers GW PS: That bit is nylon, harder than rubber.

I purchased a pair through "importmonster" last year.........give them a buzz, they're on this forum. Cheers GW

There seem to be quite a few Wagons come up for sale lately, if you have any doubts just keep looking until you find something you can be comfortable with. And........the worst common areas I have seen for rust on these cars is around the front strut turrets. So, if it looks like repair or patch/respray work has been done in that area I would give it a miss. No hesitation. My 2c GW

Rocol cutting oil should be satisfactory, I like that stuff, had good results. I only mentioned the green stuff as that is the meanest gear I have used, it allowed me to drill through rig drill rods ~ very hard material, (with ordinary high speed drills). Just need to find optimum drill speed with drill of either drill material/cutting fluid that will hack it. Cylinder with the restrictors I refer to are not "set & forget" as the restrictors are readily accessible, installed in the "end blocks", adjacent drive-pipe port entry for ext/ret. Need screwdriver/allen key to adjust but still not "tamper-proof". Maybe your cylinder of choice is mostly used in applications where rate control is by external proportional speed valves? Dunno. Cheers GW

Hi there, most quality cylinders have speed restrictors built in. Maybe source around for one that is more applicable for your purpose, (Suppliers/users like SMC, Pirtek, Fluidline etc.,) else get some titanium drill bits, a variable speed drill/lathe whatever that has minimal head/chuck slack & use that really nasty green stuff.....Trafelex as your cutting lube. Else stick a few plugs of base nipple thread size in an envelope & take to your local machine shop, along with your preferred final drill size. Or; get yourself a couple of Whitey/Hoke needle valves & pipe them into the "extend/retract" hyd lines running to the cylinder, if your application allows the luxury of course. Cheers GW

With reisea's query above in mind............... Just wondering if your rears have this number on them? These are fitted to my S1 260RS. Have'nt found the number for the fronts yet but in anycase if the custom valving is not recorded by this part number you will still need to contact the guru. (SK) Cheers GW

This exact one, just like on the front of the box in the pic, (if it comes out), you need the correct mandrill (a Dremel product) for these slip-on cardboard tubes, sacrificial, emery coated, get into close spaces, good tool control, worked fine. Some other thing(s) I did was get a flat piece of emery strip & rub off as much loose stuff as I could on the inside of the panel the mirror attaches too. Without stuffing my windows. Once I removed all the loose stuff, got some foam sticks, (paint brush handles with a block of foam rubber on the end instead of the usual bristles ~ Bunnings El cheapo) & treated the inside with the same chemical steps as the outside. The foam pads can be formed to fit the inside contours of the door with your finger, messy on fingers but effective on inner unreachable door skin. Last thing I did was get into the bottom of the doors & brush out/vacuum all the loose crap out that had shed from the mirror area over time & with my activities. There was quite a bit to suck out. Rust flakes, lots. Gave the bottom gutter of doors a squirt with inhibitor while I was at it, CRC Soft Seal, product code 3013. Don't be too gay as it will penetrate & stick like the proverbial to whatever it touches. Cheers GW