
260tech
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Everything posted by 260tech
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The Dreaded Factory Wing Mirror Rust
260tech replied to kidafa's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Pulled my mirrors off last August. I used a Dremel with sanding tubes to remove flaking paint & rust. Treated affected arrears with Fertan rust convertor, (chemtech product from coventrys) primed with .....um......metal primer, then a enamel top coat, then coated the ridge part that had got eaten away, with Sikaflex to build up the missing/corroded original metal. I figgered that there was a need for some kind of wall under the mirrors minus foam else water was going to flow under mirror & get down into the door. I used glad wrap to form the Sikaflex then removed wrap once the black stuff had cured. I fitted Ganador mirrors, had them for a while. The thing with them is that they have a wider footprint, droop lower down the door & cover small excursions of Dremel, rust & paintbrush. Very beneficial, saves possible door respray if the corrosion has not gone too far. The rust on my car was not visible with the original mirrors fitted but it sure was when I removed them. See pics. (hope they come through) Cheers GW -
Rb26det Misfire And Low Oil Pressure
260tech replied to AE86 Spoontah's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Hi there, dunno what your problem is but seems like there are two which could be related. If you have sealed up your cracked coilpacks & the sealant has had sufficient time to completely cure without fixing problem or as you say making it worse I would be borrowing some known good coilpacks to substitute & check. Also I'm told that the factory Nissan oil pressure senders/gauges on Skylines are notoriously dodgy but you could also have bad electrical earthing causing your combined problem. My 2c Cheers GW -
Dunno what voltage would be on the cap you refer to (could be 100vdc plus) but if there is enough pressure there to over-ride the resistance of your skin & deliver the stored current charge (which would be fairly hefty from a 2.5 farad tank), then it is gunna hurt. A lot. Household RCD's/earth leakage/safety switches are set to trip at 30 milliamps, very quickly (in milliseconds) so that you do not get a sustained boot & killed. No such luxury plowing around in your stereo amplifiers' innards. Like all electric shocks, even if you haven't fried yourself outright, things can get out of wack as a result.....irregular heartbeat possibly leading to heart failure at a later time & so on. DC also has the nifty trick of causing muscles to contract so that you often cannot let go of the thing that is biting you until it says so (discharged) or some nice person comes along & throws the switch. Avoid it like the plague, take all precautions. My 2c. Cheers GW
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Spotted S1 RS4, (anyone on here?). Grey job with bar style grill Hannan street intersection turning right into Boulder rd at around 2pm today. Waved, honked, I was in the troopie heading up Maritana st. Tried to get rego ~ "CNW____" but lites green, traffic & stuff, + craft. Beer run. Cheers GW
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Yup, isoprophyl alc is good, absorbs water & leaves no residue, also check plugs for gaps, & coilpacks for moisture & crap that will make things (sparks) track. give the coilpaks a wash with the iso & spray with a silicon inhibitor. Quote gospel from PI #116 Cheers GW
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Quote "I do not know if it is a Nismo version, that is what I am trying find out... Can anyone with an Autech confirm if their ECU is the same as mine ? The number plate came with the car " Unquote Thanks for the pics anyway moff, Nice wagon! Looks just like mine used to..........only much cleaner. The reason I wanted to see a pic btw is the Nismo jobs have a different grill, same shape as de pulsar gtir. Or at least the pic I have seen did. Would be able to tell straight up if she was the Nismo version in that case I reckon. No doubt others will disagree but my 2c. Cheers GW
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Can you post up some pics? Never seen a Nismo Stag other than advertisements. Porn. Cheers GW
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Hi there, you should give your chosen powder-coater a call, last time I got some wheels done I dropped vehicle off at p-c's (some place in Osborne Park, Guthrie street I think) & picked up a couple of days later. All done, just sign here. Can't hurt to ring round a few places................... Cheers GW
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There is some gains (tuning flexibility) to be had all round if you go the adjustable bars. More stuff to fiddle with. Cheers GW
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Thanks for the support people, actually staggered into DEERING Autronics in Erindale road Balcatta, on 10.5volts at 9am after doing a dodgy U-turn at the lights, bit of curb riding & pulled up right in front. I was on my way to a funeral as it happened, so left Phil at Autronics (08-93451514) he was flatout answering phones, customers & wading through parts books with the killer "import" on his lips & arranging a cab to pick me up. Phoned him at around mid-day to get the news that I could pick it up around 3.30 ~ 4pm. Legend! What they fitted. 1 x OEX RXA072 ALT. NISSAN price $401.20 + gst + labour. Total $581 Phil said it was the alternator supplied for the RB30 Skyline? Works a treat, very happy with the price & service, considering that I was 600kms from home at the time. Thanks again for the input. GW PS: Gonna replace radiator & ignition igniter pack next, before they get me.
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My alternator is cactus, anyone know of equivalent parts/suppliers in WA, or whether the R33 job is the same & if so what part number that would be? Done a search through facs & parts lists no luck. Need to know asap, stranded in the city..damn! Any help with numbers or equivalents would be much appreciated thanks. GW
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" blown compressed air down the rubber & metal lines..." Maybe cleared something here?
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Mine dyno-ed 159awk stock with pods & exhaust so yours sounds pretty much on the money. Cheers GW
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Google is the go sir.
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Hi there, you could try bulb(s) from LH offending cct in RH working cct to confirm your bulb(s) are good. Dunno where ballasts are, I have S1, maybe trace wiring back? I should imagine the ballasts would be close to headlamp location but. Also check out diy Stagea section for suggestions if you haven't already. Cheers GW Edit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Xe...l&hl=hid%2A Maybe helpful?
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Spotted series 1 RS4 Silver pearl(?) bar type front grill, personalised plates heading to town on Lionel street 1045hrs today. Spotted silver grey RS 1 series 1 honeycomb front grill, heading out of town on Federal road at 1115hrs or thereabouts. Both these cars looked very tidy & are new here in town (Kal/Boulder WA) or at least they are to me. Waved out of window of trusty troopie both times. They probably thought I was nuts. Cheers GW
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Short Curcuited ... Can't Find Problem... Help!
260tech replied to rance's topic in General Maintenance
Probably best if you purchased a fire extiungisher if you don't already have one, removed any wiring mods you have had a hand in to date &, did not do your own wiring jobs on your car from now on. My 2c, stay safe. GW -
Hi there, I went with SK's suspension/alignment settings a couple of years ago, Whiteline camber/caster/stabiliser kit, Eibach springs/Bilstein shocks. I have had no problems with tyre wear or anything else since. Works great. Minimal rear camber/tyre wear. There's an exhaustive & informative thread lead by SK in here somewhere. Maybe you have already found it? Cheers GW
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Been away for a while, ref my comment "testing battery with multimeter", I think you will find that you are using your meter to monitor batt/alt performance characteristics under those load-no load conditions outlined above. Is all & fine. But if you go down the second current path outlined above (which is what I was alluding to in the first place) you will surely test your meter, unless you use a serious current shunt or have a meter capable of handling 300+amps dc sustained (or whatever the max is that the batt is rated to deliver +?x% safety margin). Shoulda made it clearer. Never mind you get the idea. cheers GW
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Yes, what stormtrooper said. You must stop doing that in the car. Also, a multimeter will not test your battery however the battery could severely test your multimeter under certain circumstances. Bear that in mind. Any autosparks can quickly load test your battery & alternator. Best bet. Cheers GW
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^^^ Like he says, go give it some stick on gravel or grass surface & check out the tracks. Cheers
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I think you need MAP sensor for optional boost control add-on. Cost maybe $100~$150 just guessing (comparing to price of Apexi boost solenoid), as never purchased individually. You may be able to pick one up pre-loved? How is MAP sensor busted? Broken process connection or electrically stuffed/zapped? Dodgy plug/wiring? Cheers GW
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Top viewing, how you guys stayed awake or made it there & back in one piece avoiding toll roads or found servo's on the journey is beyond me. Well done. Cheers GW
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Hi Chad, interesting pic, idle curiosity, was wondering how long this clutch was in service, rated transmitted hp & did you get any feedback from the manufacturer on this failure? I was thinking it looks a bit like a metalurgical problem (manuf defect, either temper or selection of base plate thickness ~ I've seen a few mis-matches in other power transmission applications over the years but not an expert) or mis-matched power rating? My 2c Cheers GW I use Nismo twin plate sc, never been hammered.......yet.