260tech

FYI D Jetro be this one. Cheers

No worries Jezboosted. Found my own original alignment numbers from 2007 on the 49 page journey in an old post on here which should explain my current position regarding rear tyre wear. I will cut n paste below (un-edited) for this post. My old post: Quote "Had mine done recently, numbers about the same as above, fr & rr toe + 0'01" , fr camber -1'10"left, -1'08"right, caster +4'2"left, +3'1" rear toe +0'01"lt & rt but just reading rear camber = awful. ( left - 1.44 deg, right +11.4 deg) typo?" Unquote. Seems my rear camber was set at a degree & a half negative left, positive right (maybe), definitely not SK's specs for the rear end. Having said that, i never had any dramas driving the wagon, it went where-ever I pointed it, no problem. It went GREAT in fact. Back to reality.......Since I bought the "works" from SK with the primary objective of curing the rear tyre wear plus having some fun with the rest of the gear, (tax cheque came in handy) I have no doubt at all that I would have given my aligners a copy of the recommended alignment details, (as I have done this time round btw), probably with some authority & relish knowing me. I obviously did not take any notice of the said resulting numbers at the time of paying the bill on my way outta there. Being a "country boy" down in the "big city" I just wanted my wagon back so I could get back in control. Now after buying some fancy gear (tax cheque pending) to fix ongoing rear tyre abnormal wear I found that my team had not used the full adjustability available to them, see first pic. Being an "old bast&%d" & not driving the beast much, it did take me a while to stuff the rear tyres (2007 ~ now) However, I thought I could reasonably expect to bugger them evenly? At least that was the plan. Traction adjustment not needed unless you are going full batsh*t on the track. Which I am not but Ikeya recommend these links in their sales blurb. Save yer dough. Left to right. Unappreciated Whiteline adjustable bush/new stuff/new stuff Seeya, GW

Hi there Jezboosted, I know this response is a couple of months late & probably "old hat" but f kit , I bit the bullet this last week & waded throo 49 pages of the suspension sticky in search of the definitive numbers that you may (or may not) be chasing because I needed them & have condensed the info to the following to maybe help others;(with appropriate kudos to the contributors of course) From posts by Gary Cooke (Sydneykid) For those that don't know (apologies to you others) "Sydneykid" has in the past done heaps of work on the mighty C34, designed (for free) a complete cost effective suspension kit for the Nissan C34 Stagea in its’ various forms & spent many hours on this forum explaining his reasoning & the mechanics of the subject to anyone who asked. His daily drive was a Nissan Stagea RS Four & he was racing a couple of Nissan GTST’s. (Dunno if that is still the case) This discussion was hot back in 2005 or there-abouts & refers to Gary’s own Nissan Stagea RS Four daily driver. (Not the hicas version I think). SK says ; "1.I have no idea what the standard settings are but this is what mine will be set at. Front toe = zero Rear toe = zero Front camber = 1 degree negative Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber. Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative" My input = Note: The jury seems to waver between 0 ~ -2mm rear toe. See below From another worthy contributor, Kiwirs4(?) KiwiRS4 says; "Front: Caster Left: as much as possible (5 deg or more) Caster Right: what you got on the right less 1/4 degree (to allow for road camber) Front: Camber L&R 1 degree negative Toe in L&R zero Rear: Camber L&R neg 0.5 deg Toe in L&R minus 2mm" I have no idea what the relationship is between mm & degrees or where this would be measured from. Stuff that may also be helpful? Coil spring rates; Ref: Gary Cooke (referring to standard RS4) "I keep forgetting to post it up, the rear spring rate is 170 lbs per inch. As previously posted the front is 165 lbs per inch. Considering the weight carrying capacity of a wagon, that's not surprising." The below added from stuff in the thread; Manufacturer “Zeal” quote ; 7/6 which is 7 kg / mm (390 lbs per inch) for the front and 6 kg / mm for the rear (335 lbs per inch). SK “quote” As a comparison, the standard Stagea fronts are 165 lbs per inch, so that's a 137% increase in spring rate. Quoting SK "Usually for sporty road use I would be looking for around 30% increase." (“Nice rule of thumb.” Added by me) “Nismo” quote ; S-Tune springs for the Stagea RS4 are 212lb/in (F) & 246lb/in (3.8/4.4) (F +29%/R +44%)Upgrade from standard rates. From the information posted by forum members there is no one fix to achieve the recommended rear wheel alignment numbers. Some vehicles require inner upper rear camber adjustable bush only (Whiteline or similar) whilst others of the same marque require both inner & outer. Still others, due to their requirements may only be satisfied with fully adjustable rear upper camber arms. Depends on individual chassis alignment (warp/distortion/or lack of) & choice of ride height (eyebrow?) which after 49 pages of posts makes sense to me. Seeya GW

Fitted Whiteline camber bushes a few years ago now due to the usual rear tyre wear issues. Was still chopping out rear inner tread (though not so bad as initially) so I have now fitted aftermarket rear adjustable links (upper) which should solve the problem permanently. One small hiccup in the process of removing OEM camber links, only the outter camber bush had been adjusted. The inner bush was set at (nothing, not used, set at minimum) What I don't get is that the knuckle heads that did the alignment fitted the bushes so it was not as if they were unaware of full adjustment facility. Oh well, onwards & upwards now GW

Good stuff. Record ID number & write down on toolbox? Just in case. GW

Your locknut would have an ID number on it. I have been through this exercise myself. My solution, because I had recorded the ID number before I lost the nut for my vehicle, (left on wheel by me & then taken bucket of bolts for a test run ), was to order a specific locknut from Nengun quoting number. These guys could get the locknut but not without the ascociated set of standard nuts. (120bux ~ whatever) Only way they would supply it to me anyways. Once I had purchased a new set with the requisite corresponding locknut they helpfully informed me that the nut on it's own cost 30bux, however it was "not in thier interest to do a sale at 30bux when they could get 120. Customer relations? Go figure. Bottom line is if you get lucky you will find an owner with a nut that will fit. Happy hunting. GW

My thoughts. Any crap in the block is gunna end up in the new shiny radiator if you do not flush the said crap out. Up to you. Cheers GW

Do it, you'll never regret it. GW

Did you get it sorted Mati? Found these...............maybe some use? http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c336241353&thumb=http://f4.auctions.c.yimg.jp/f41batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/1/1/8/tokusan707-thumb-1329784972711910.jpg&title=622423%20BCNR33 Cheers GW And these...... http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v220289568&thumb=http://f2.auctions.c.yimg.jp/f46batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/1/1/8/tokusan707-thumb-1325390406750129.jpg&title=556423%20BCNR33 http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l116014581&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/f32batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/1/1/8/tokusan707-thumb-1323250810322478.jpg&title=481423%20GT%20R%20BCNR33

Try <www.importmonster.com.au> yahoo.jp auctions for dog screen maybe.

No doubt you have dropped the car onto its' wheels to see how the link/ball joint sits at zero deflection or is that pic showing the vehicle at rest? Also, how does the new lower link compare to the original undamaged lower link? Is the pivot ball pin the same length as original? Mounting point triangular measurements OK? Dunno if this is any help or not & just throwing it out there but for what it's worth I have been looking at this stuff myself for a while now, in pursuit of improved handling but more to do with rear tire wear. My research, such as it is (haha) suggests that you have picked the more complex end of the rear suspension box of tricks to start with performance links whilst keeping the upper bits standard. From what I have gathered I will be starting with adjustable bits at the top of the geometry box & work down, in pursuit of satisfactory rear camber alignment. As I dig deeper the cost goes up until you get to front/rear roll centre geometry which is where you may be at right now Mati. The adjustable rear lower A arms that I have looked at all seem to have the longer outer ball joint pin to compensate for altered link angles & as part of roll centre correction after car has been lowered 50mm+ which maybe making your lower A arm angles look awkward? Maybe you could just go with a set of these standard babys (shiny, see link),to fix your immediate problem of trashed lower A arm, providing the sub-frame mounts are still in alignment after your recent unplanned excursion of course. http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-rear-lower-a-arm-set-standard-50190 In any event google IKEYA Formula or similar mobs if you haven't already, they have some good write-ups on the subject & may help to point you in the right direction. My 2c Cheers GW PS: Wheel alignment is on the books?

^Roger^, whatever I used on my bushes sure f$%ked them up, obviously wasn't molybdenum dysulphide. Good luck with it anyways GW

Now this has got real style Brylie. http://www.rhdjapan.com/do-luck-frp-t1-front-bumper-spoiler-bnr32-gt-r-60878

Get the manufacturer/part # physical size details off the other one & go see your friendly autosparks supplier or Mr Nissan dealer. Shouldn't cost much & is bound to be fitted to a number of vehicle types. I very much doubt the weather cover would be unique to your particular car. Cheers GW PS: Ref: lights not working.....Don't suppose you have just blown the headlight fuse(s)? Couldn't be that lucky I suppose.

The seller is in Poland! Wrong. Save yer dosh for purchase from a reputable supplier sir. Cheers GW

Yeh Brylie, I see what you're talking about & I'm with ^him^. Maybe post up the vehicle model year etc & go SHOPPING for a good 2nd hand front bar. Once it is in your possession take it & the rest of your ride to an auto spraypainter to color match & fit. Cheers GW Or maybe this will do for starters? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391114-r33-parts/page__pid__6226294#entry6226294

Just a heads up for the unwary perhaps; I put mineral based lube/grease on some poly bushes on the old 4wd one time...........turned them to jelly in no time flat. Used the "White grease" since then, no idea what it is made up of but no more soft bushes for me. Cheers, GW PS: x2 for taking the beast to a suspension joint for a survey before too much money is spent in the wrong place...........or worse.

Thanks Terry, mine are like this, knurling closest to hub which made me think they may be screw fit. Tried loading another pic but it wont play the game. Hopefully this one will convey the info. Cheers GW

Thanks fellas, push out it is then. But they are very very tight all the same. Mine are not carbon looking, they look more like machined ally or duralium. GW

Went to get a couple of tyres fitted & balanced today. No biggie I've had it done before. Trouble is my local tyre place couldn't get the hub centres out to enable balancing. They are very tightly fitted. Tried knocking out with wooden drift/rubber hammer but nothing more serious yet. The centre on my wheels, Rays Volk GT7's appear to be alloy (never paid any attention before now), maybe threaded as the outside ring is knurled or tight press fit with "O" ring seal? I can turn them a few degrees by hand but not much achieved by doing this. I would just go ahead & find a way to press them out but am wondering now if they could be threaded in which case press maybe not so smart. Anybody else had trouble getting these out and succeeded without damaging the suckers? GW

Park the Stagboat up if you haven't already, give it a couple of days to dry out while you transfer the golf clubs into the Pudge e ot. Try again on Monday? Best bet. Cheers, GW

How were you jump starting the car Nick? Jumper leads from host car with the host engine running/host battery getting charged at 13 ~ 14 volts?? If that was the method you could reasonably expect your R33 to start or at least kick over provided your maintenance work has not disturbed anything else. If you swapped battery from functioning car to R33 perhaps the R needs more grunt than the host car to crank it. Put existing battery from R on charge for 24hrs, plug back in to R, see how you go. Else.............New battery required at correct cranking amps for R33. Cheers GW

SKA had 22,770 posts 5 years ago? Far out! Apologies in advance.........off topic.

Dunno about Aussie suppliers of decals, probably Nissan come to think off it or Justjap or Google: Importmonster, Nengun, RHDjapan, open Pandora's Box & enjoy the ride. Cheers GW

PM "Chris Rogers", SAU member, car auto-elect-audio-security guru. If he can't point you in the right direction regarding your Xnavi question you are probably stuffed. Cheers GW