260tech

Tenagah also recommend & carry MOTUL products. Cheers GW

From NENGUN this was for 260RS, send 'em an email maybe The Bride DIGO seats have been designed as a comfortable replacement for the standard seats, whilst offering superior body holding and driver comfort. Increased body holding with an ergonomic fee Designed for simple replacement of the standard seats New design and made in Japan Bride Type YO or Type MO rails are also required for fitment. These rails are available for most vehicle on our website, but please contact us if yours is not listed. Cheers GW

Hi there, 1. Need to ask Pedders. 2. I doubt it. Centre metal sleeve/spool is offset hole to bolty, maybe one piece, or was on my castor kit from Whiteline leastwise, I would imagine the principle is the same for camber, can't remember what my kit looked like now. Therefore car is raised, centre bolt/sleeve rotated, car lowered to be set at required camber if not correct on first adjustment & bolt checked/retensioned in new position. Or something along those lines, didn't watch the procedure so am taking a guess here. Have a look at your kit. Is the hole in the steel centre sleeve central or offset? 3. Pedders? Dunno. Ikeya Formula & others, probably. $$$$$$$$$ 4. Hopefully someone can FAST that detail for you. 5. See your question 4? My 2c Cheers GW

pm sent

porn

Swapped S1 tail lights for S2 last weekend, all good so far. See attachment. CBF looking for "uploading attachments 101" Tried loading the attachment in here but I am not getting pics up. Bugger. Stagea_tail_light_change_over.doc

Hi there, I'm with you all the way dude & probably also off topic but the discussion is here & as we are not bagging SK........ so. I purchased Gary's complete kit back in 2007 for the Stagea because; 1. My lovely rear Toyo Proxes were chewing out something shocking. Shagged on the inners in about 4000kms. 2. The car sat nose up on level paving. 3. There was buggerall adjustment available to correct this state of affairs in the original suspension hardware. 4. The full package was available as a "group buy" 5. It was engineered for a specific vehicle (Gary runs a Stag for towing racecars) that few suspension shops understood or cared about at that time. 6. It was a complete suspension package not "half a job" 7. It was freight free with ample fitting advice day or night. 8. There was 5% discount for orders over a grand & an additional 5% discount for the "complete package" With the sound instructions provided by Gary from time to time I was able to install most (90%) of the kit myself in my backyard & only left camber bushes to the suspension shop to take care of. Had to go to suspension place for alignment in any case. With the initial settings Gary provided for the kit I have never felt the need to change them. I have normal tyre wear & car is as solid as a rock on the road. There was only one issue at the time of fitting all this gear & that was the choice of existing Whiteline springs, mainly because I could not get my head around installing rear springs upside down, that's just me nevermind. This issue was solved with the Eibachs I subsequently fitted, again spec'ed & supplied by Gary. It has been said that the Bilstien shocks provided in the group buy have been tested against off the shelf items & display no difference in performance. Fine by me. It has also been said that Bilstein embraced the Australian condition settings provided by Gary & shipped to suit? Gary has moved on & I dunno why but I reckon it is our loss. Cheers GW

+1 for importmonster. Trader on this forum. Specialises on yahoo.jp Engrish translations etc., Cheers GW

Here's my contribution. Hope it's not too bias'ed. All I got, far too busy taggin' along. Cheers GW

^^^^^ Like he says, you need help. See any accountant asap. Cheers GW Nice wagon btw.

Hi Adam, I am wondering now if you still want my R33 motor @89km genuine, with mechanics report on compression check & dyno sheet 214hp @4w bog standard boost (both from Tenagah Motorsport) removed from an RS260 family wagon for $4k plus 50% of freight cost ex Perth. I need to know else I am wasting my time & money travelling to Perth, getting the motor freight ready for shipping etc., at my cost without a deposit or any financial committment to date on your part in the transaction. Of course their is no warranty implied or otherwise, I have no control over the install or treatment the engine will be later subjected to. Personally I have never pushed the motor past 6k, there having never been any need to, dyno sheet is posted for info & as I said motor was changed out for an N1 because I could, no other reason, give it a 100k service & drive it. My 2c, no offence. Cheers GW

+1 for "Vanishing Point" (another old bastard). Plus........ for a thriller "Charade" My 2c Cheers GW

^^^^^tks

Hi there, don't s'pose you have the part # for your new radiator? Aluminium? Cheers GW

Bugger! You might wanna take that aircon condensor ($100) off your for sale list Neil? Anyway it's gotta be up from here. Cheers GW

PM sent James.

Hey Adam, thought you was gunna catch a plane come have a looksee? Should bring yer wheels as well & get Tenagah to do the lot hey? cheers GW

+1.........work permitting.

Give Abdus a call at Tenagah Motorsport Wangara, his shop is also into it. Very fair prices, top service. My 2c GW

pm sending......................+++++++++

Confine sister to household duties & buy new battery. Sorry, Yer battery is shagged dude, need to place it on slow trickle charge overnite & see what gives in the next 12 hours. Cheers GW

Hi there 160~180 deg F is about ballpark for lite use. (160~180)-32*(5/9) for deg C................. (degC*9/5)+32= Deg F or yoostabe, back in the bad old days. You need a known good sensor to isolate source of error. Find/steal/borrow known good replacement sensor & place (whilst still connected to your wiring harness, ignition on~ might need extension lead knockup) in cup of ice cubes floating in water, 60/40 mix, for 0~4 degC check of gauge, place in cup of boiling water for 95~100deg C. or there abouts. If ya want to get serious place a thermometer in reference liquid. Alternatively you could plug your display into a mate's motor/temp sensor arrangement & verify your gauges. Cheers GW

Hi Adam, just ducked out to the shed to check some numbers on Whiteline boxes, I bought SK's complete package for my S1 260. The numbers on the swaybar shipping boxes & therefore on my wagon are; SBS24=JAMAC (front), SBS22=JAMAC (rear) These are adjustable, 24mm solid front, 22mm solid rear. Get hold of Gary or Matt, there is a heavier swaybar setup available from them I think, 27mm front, 24mm rear (maybe) JAMAC was Gary's business name at the time I got my gear, suspension parts being made up for JAMAC by Whiteline on consignment? Cheers GW

You said; "Swapping the CAS didn't fix the problem we were having but the other one was left on the car. A few days later i started noticing this problem" Still got original CAS? Worth a shot I reckon although I have no idea were the source tacho signal comes from, never had to dig it up............yet. Cheers GW

Hi there, if the rpm signal is clean from the source or somewhere downstream of the source as displayed on your laptop then perhaps the next area to check is wiring loom after that. No doubt you have checked all connections, made sure they are clean (as in not corroded). Weird intermittent faults can be due to corrupted primary signal/power/earth paths for the circuit, whatever the item or system is, particularly if it has evolved rather than "happened" after some other work has been carried out. Next thing to check (if it was me) would be for dry joints on combination meter circuit board. My 2c Good hunting, GW