260tech

Give www.rhdjapan.com a run. They've been good to me, always check back if there is any doubt about compatability, even phoned me a couple of times when I was having trouble sorting stuff out. Also I have been very well served by Importmonster, Aaron & Daniel, they also have phoned when there is any doubt. Delivery times were good & Imortmonster will always credit you back any savings in freight costs they make. They will also try an package stuff together to save on your freight costs if you have two seperate orders close together. One thing to be aware of, most companies do not have everything they advertise & are reliant on deliveries from suppliers so as long as you are planning well ahead delivery times should never be a major issue imho. My 2c Cheers GW

Day 1 some first up pics. Collie Motorplex. Left for Busselton about midday. Dunno Snowy. Cheers GW PS: Missed a shot of someone doing a bit of offroad work, great re-entry but.

Um.............so which backseat/boot did they fit the N1 long motor c/w turbos (or blown demo SR20 for that matter) into I wonder? Good trick ifnya can do it. Glad to hear progress is being made, , hope JJ get all the gear back roll out la guilotine. Maybe public theraputic (speeling, meh) flogging first? Cheers GW

Their ass is grass. Great news youall, top marks to the boys in blue. Regards GW

Hi there, to keep skin on I use riggers gloves, $10 from safety gear stockist (Alsafe etc) To get oil filter off, once you access it, people have used those cloths you get from Woolies to grab onto tight jamjar lids etc. Dunno what they're called but. I relocated mine in the Stag 'cos it was a pain to get at but compared to mine your's looks like a freakin nightmare, take the weekend off from chasin the fairer sex bite the bullet & fit an oil filter relocator. Cheers & good luck. GW

Hey Danny, if it was me I would get teh tape measure & pencil out. Biggest CCA you can fit in existing tray/space & still clear under bonnet apendages. Make sure pos/neg posts are rightaway round. And from the posts elsewhere in this thread, not Century brand. I have Bosch BNS60S 400CCA in Stagea, Bosch BNZ70SS 4W 700CCA in 4WD (this wont fit but) Cheers GW

Hey Danny, seems like you have a multi-meter at your disposal (12.0v ~ 12.7v) in your post, if so get engine running again somehow, load up charging circuit ~ headlights, stereo etc., & measure across battery terminals. Should see 13v ~ 14v constant. That is, not floating around all over the place. If you can measure that sort of voltage level I would reckon your charging cct is working as expected. For battery failed, get multi-meter wired/clipped across batt terms with engine/ignition off, place meter where you can see it and crank motor. If battery volts drop way down below 12v then the CCA's have done a runner & yer battery needs help or replacement. Alternatively, take to autosparks, get it (battery) fully charged, maybe overnite, then load tested. Observe test results & make decision. My 2 bob. Cheers GW

Got yer pm thanks Johno, I am happy to make up amortised freight differential, if required. Keep at 'em, need me toys is all. Keep up the good work. Cheers GW

+1. Starting to get fidgety, car booked in for early next month. GW

Hi there, made a note of mine last time I had them wheels off, I have 18x8 +30 front, 18x9 +32 + 3mm spacers rear. Don't ask me why, they where on the car when I got it. Ride height is 370mm front, 360mm rear. Tyres are 235/40 Maxxis. Body panels are standard, wheel alignment is as per SK's specs in the suspension thread. This arrangement has not caused me any problems with tyres touching etc. Cheers GW

Like lots of people on this forum I collect good info as it's posted, here's some for your info. From SK in another post. What we use; 4WD Transfer = Castrol Transmax Z Automatic Transmission = Castrol Transmax Z Manual Transmission = Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 or Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 Differential = Castrol SAF-XA Oil capacities. From DUNCAN gearbox 4l, front diff 1l, rear diff 1.5l, xfer case 2l, attessa 0.5l, power steer 1l, engine about 5l + cooler + big sump if applicable Tricks: 1. Make sure you can get the FILL plugs undone successfully before you undo the UNFILL plugs. :D 2. Get an oil sucker/filler hand pump from Supercheap or suchlike to refill diffs/transfer etc. Drain when oil hot. Cheers GW

Hi there, apart from cast pistons, what kinda big mistake? Effective life of motor after big mistake? Like can yurun with a de-rated motor for the intended purpose for a while (like 40k's) or is the intended purpose gunna foobar it? If the latter is the case then pull motor out, strip it down & fit gear that will achieve yor purpose. Most cost effective option. Cheers GW

Jeff Ash, minister of C-RED used Allstar Garage according to his writeup in HPI#95 to get his EVO GT-A (EFO) chirping. That's gotta be a good plug imho. Cheers GW

Studlock it is then hey? Cheers GW

No worries & thanks for the info. I take it that the suitably lubed bolt/washer @ 150nm + 1/2 turn with enforcer bar (for all the ATI group buy guys) is for RB25 & 26 Cheers GW

Looks like c/f rice........nice all the same. Get the vin # fasted in the relevant forum section. Tha'll tell what your baby was birthed as from factory. Cheers GW

(150Nm with ARP lube on the bolt and both sides of the washer....then 1/2 a turn more with a piece of pipe over the torque wrench handle) Is this for RB25 Sir? Or both 25 & 26? Cheers GW PS: Put the gloves away champ. I'm the guy that thort he was buying your fronts & dumps. My bad as I said then but I did wait patiently for you to make up your mind as to whether you were actually selling anything at all & at that time I did say that it would cost you down the track with technical information as my project progressed. (which were why I purchased your parts) I can post up the pm's if you like. Peace brother, I will call on you again down the track no doubt.

Double hammer rattlegun at warp 4 on full charged air reciever? C'mon Mr dirtgarage, I think you could help & you owe me one I reckon. Cheers GW

C-RED, Tenagah.................SAU sponsor list............hope it all goes well for you. Btw +1 for 26 time. Cheers GW

Bump. And.........whether the crank bolt is left or right hand thread? Cheers GW

Ref tail lites, post up "the right price" as I am interested. Cheers GW

Hi there, you all most likely know this already but for the record, the use of oil on threads of bolts to be torqued (to any value) is to avoid getting false torque settings due to "thread binding" before the bolt/nut has pulled down to achieve the stated torque setting. Regarding thread locker liquids, provided the threads (male/female ~ bolt/crank) are clean & free of binding media then I reckon liquid thread locker of the correct grade will do as a lubricant & provide some insurance after correct "pulldown" on this particular critical fastener. Thread lock compounds do not activate until all oxygen is excluded from the mating metal to metal surfaces. (thread faces) I refer to the Locktite range of products. Having said all that there are locking solutions in the Locktite range to do many different jobs, studlock/bearinglock/threadlock (several grades) select carefully. Regarding the correct setting, the originator of the ATI harmonic balancer group buy is as stated on this forum getting his balancer installed by "dirtgarage", Red R racing?. Perhaps this fine gentleman could have the final say on the relevant Nm settings for RB25/RB26 before we start. My 2c. Cheers GW PS: I absolutely hate drilling out snapped bolts/easy-outs. Even worse than housework!

Yerbut yerbut yerbut, dah website? What's the go with that I was wondering. I like to browse beforehand. Cheers GW

Hi there, dropped in to the "Blacksun" website as posted above, got the intro "about us" but nothing else? Maybe shafted or down for maintenance? Dunno. GW

Maybe I have 'nother beer. Thort you was talking about caster rods. Apologies. GW