260tech

Thanks for an interesting tour of the city fellas' glad I took the time to come & join in, met some good people, learned heaps from the quiz (all gone now but) called in at Wilkinson Suspension on the way out & got the rest of the bits from Whiteline kit fitted so the weekend was not all "indulgence" after all John. Thanks for a great day out. GW

Gold.

Thanks Darrin, (pockets dosh for other goodies). Cheers GW

Hi Gary, out of interest what spring-rates are the Eibach jobs you supplied me earlier this year for my Stagea & have you come up with an install guide as yet. I have installed front setup on my car (short jobs), ended up setting at forth groove up from bottom of Bilstein, lower thread exposed aroung 66mm to give 370mm ride height but am still to get to suspension shop to do rear camber bushes & rear springs at the same time. Also I wish to know if there should be a gasket of some sort between original turret mount & Eibach spring centering aluminum tophat disk? Cheers GW

Hi Darrin, I am also interested in something like this for my vehicle. Is there much involved in prep work with existing piping to make one slip into a 260RS? Is it essential that the inlet outlet pipes on pre-cooler face rearward (biased towards engine bay)? Regards GW

Buy Australian. Jim Berry. My 2c Cheers GW

PM sent.

Yup. Easter weekend frinstance.

Onya Scotty, I will pack & send my device this weekend or Monday at the lateast. best regards GW

Cheers Scott I appreciate the response, I will pack it up & send it down in the next week or so. Ref old technology, my old Uniden was working fine picking up random signals from vehicles of interest on the open road & as previously stated its' finest feature (no microwave towers in the vicinity) up until doomsday Oct 2006. After paying $1205.00 to NSW judicial purse I replaced it with state of the art technology in Jan/Feb 2007. (Had to save up) In case my previous post was mis-understood I was not referring to ancient history on the road, but recent events. The reason my new unit was replaced by the vendor was because they acknowledged my unit had low sensitivity & that their technicians could not improve it's performance on the bench, hence the no cost replacement. In any case I would expect these modern devices to live up to the advertisements & be ahead of or at least abreast with current official technology & definitely be able to replicate performance that was already out there for public consumption from past technology, else there is no upgrade product to sell. From what I can see the current advances concentrate on stealth/undetectability by RDD's rather than greater sensitivity or earlier warning. What are your thoughts on this? Not wishing to start a s*#t fight, just asking is all. Maybe I have been priveleged or spoilt in the past & am now expecting too much with current plod operating procedures, I dunno but out of interest & seeing that you deal with the South East Asia region as we know it, I would be keen to hear how many device returns you get from users describing similar issues to those I have raised in my first post? Best regards GW

Hi Darrin, still got those Bride/stagea seat rails for sale? I am a short barstard & need what you are selling I think. Just hafta find some adjustable sets (seats) to fit them is all. Let me know yea or nay with price, acct details for i-net payment please. Regards GW

Hi there Scotty, (no touching required tks) very interesting thread, some time ago I lost a much cherished 12yo+ Uniden Hazard warning device, kindly relieved from me by NSW's finest. I attempted to replace this with some 21st century technology ...Beltronics STI AU/NZ (big bucks) & have been unimpressed with the new device's performance. Mainly with regards to early warning but also with audible warning level. My old job could pick up random signals 2-4kms away & squawked it's head off, (as mentioned above which happens to be the best feature of any detector imo) as the plod gave other road users a squirt I presume, but my new job has not displayed any inclination to do this. I know the fuzz is getting smarter all the time on the use & application of their revenue raising black boxes but I was hoping for better performance than that displayed by my detector. Typically line of sight, 200 ~ 400metres (highway patrol) & closing at warp speed (combined them/me) is hair raising to say the least. I have complained bitterly to the supplier on several occasions to the extent that they recalled the first unit I purchased, found it had low sensitivity that could not be improved upon & exchanged it. The problem is the exchange unit is no better than the original. Further whinging on my part elicited offers of deals for even more expensive devices with a paltry offer of half price credit for my new existing unit. Not happy. I was wondering if your company would be interested in checking this unit & commenting on performance or lack thereof? Regards GW

Hi, "it" is quoted somewhere, (maybe in the tyre dimension link earlier in this thread) around 2.5% differential I think. Maybe here? http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html (don't mind me)

Brembo's vs Nissan calipers perhaps? Dunno but from memory, (not there atmo) I have 18x8 +30 on the front & 18x9 + 38 + 3mm spacers on the back with Rays GT7's & 18x235 x 40's all round. Can't remember the brand, maybe starts with "M"?. When I originally imported the wagon it had Toyo Proxes all round, 245/40's front & 265/35's rear with the above mentioned wheels/spacers. Cheers

Not what you want to hear but may I ask what pillar pod that is please? GW

Best option ; Re-scale dial 0 - 360kph? Seriously, has this problem existed ever since your conversion to 25DET? Or has it popped up out of the blue? There are range jumpers on the cct board for the speedo/tacho array, discussed in depth on this forum in the "White dial 320kph group buy thread". Check it out & see what you come up with. My 2c GW

Loose connection is as you say also a possibility but if this is the case why don't all tacho pointers hang low when ignition off/no power? I would ask myself how can the pointer perform this trick & to me at least the answer is "it has somehow become mechanically disconnected from pointer spindle" to be able to float around &/or dangle at random in the manner you have described. I do not know where your tacho pickup might be placed, I have not had to dig into this to date, if I did need to I would be wading through the Japanese service manual floating around the forum environs (google) but I am sure others have this knowledge at their fingertips. Time to visit a Skyline/Jap import friendly autospark in your neck of the woods I think. Sorry can't be more helpful. Good luck GW

And...........check underneath for any signs of oil/wet bits that should not be there before heading off to (insert destination) dude. I been caught before. Cheers GW

Pointer detached from pointer shaft easyiest fixed, nackered tacho pickup maybe, bad earth maybe (but if nothing else is playing up this is unlikely), obscure electronic fault fixed by Nissan by replacing complete unit. My 2c Hope you get it sorted economically, Cheers GW

Classic!

Congratulations dude, glad you got it sorted. Got any pic's of your regulator install in current location? have to do the same thing myself down the track. Cheers GW

Recently we replaced a corroded valley cover on a red motor, in the process of removal sheared a bolt holding on the old cover. Long story short, drill grind out & helicoil. Shyte every where in spite of efforts to control swarf/dust/shavings. Fitted several rare earth magnets (purchased off ebay, on hand for another project) to new filter prior to start up, ditched oil & filter after a couple of trips to work & back, 'nother filter magnets refitted around new filter. Still there & no probs so far. Rare earth magnets stick on real good, magnetism can degenerate by exposure to heat however. Not sure how much, 100 deg c maybe. Doesn't seem to bother the sump plug application however, which has been around for years. My 2c GW

Hi Chris, you still down there in Tassie fish'n an stuff maybe?

Hi, if it is a mechanical job, ie., speedo cable for drive connection, magnetic rotor & drag cup for speed/position/eddy current transmission to pointer assy then I'd say speedo cable nackered or foreign bodies between magnetic rotor & drag cup or both. If electronic I have no idea as never pulled one apart to looksee how it works. Sorry. GW