jrm

... All up, around $17K of damage - and mine is not getting written off. It really is going to come down what you have as your insured value of the car.

Just remember to disconnect the solenoid if you do hook up the 10psi actuator. You'll start hitting 14+ psi boost otherwise post 4500rpm ..

Doesn't sound like a HICAS problem to me, HYBRID VL - especially if the HICAS light isn't coming/staying on Go see a wheel/suspension place and get stuff checked out. Could be anything like worn suspension bushes - best to get it checked out.

I have some fiberglass ones sitting in my garage - bought em off eBay years ago; never got around to fitting 'em ..

Spotted black R34 - sporting what looked like minor front end damage - on a tow-truck heading North on Woodville Rd this morning around 9:30am .. hope it wasn't anyone on here.

As someone who was just in an accident - with a seatbelt and all seat factory bolts - where the 50kph rear impact managed to damage the seat - I personally wouldn't recommend it. Also consider both the car and CTP insurance implications. If you're going to do it, do it right then get it engineered. Anything less is sheer stupidity.

Spotted Vu turning from Port Rd onto Cheltenham Parade then drive up Addison Rd about 20 minutes ago or so ..

Sorry OP to hijack this thread, but here's nearly as good a place as any. Chris - have you played around with touchscreen overlays on an MFD? I've been pondering using my MFD 'tv' button to display output from my CarPC GPS (it has the ability to do that with the second display). The drama there is that it would then really need a touchscreen overlay to be useful. My concern with one of these would be that I have a sneaking suspicion that it would break the 'sunlight readability' of the MFD screen. The last thing I want is to lose is that. It's so nice having a clear screen even in the brightest conditions. Any feedback or experience you have would be great.

Tell us more, Chris.

I'd been told my the insurance assessor that the repairer was having dramas finding parts - so I figured I'd try here, and other sources to help out. Turns out he's already sourced the seat, so that doesn't matter - was just missed on the quote for some reason. My big concern is apparently the assessor is wanting to repair the headlight because of the cost of a replacement. Apparently some mob in Melbourne can put a new glass front on it or something. My obvious concern here is how well that would match my existing headlight. I would have thought it would be easier to source a local genuine xenon headlight that's been converted to H1, and use my parts to convert it back to xenon. I might have a chat with repairer about that tomorrow. I really don't want a 'dodgy'.

Is the front drivers seat still available? I'm chasing one down. Do you know if the seat mounts between coupe/sedan are the same? Nobody seems to be able to tell me ..

My car was recently involved in a fairly bad accident, and this has damaged the drivers-side - which will need replacement. This is for an R34 GTT Sedan - not sure if the coupe & sedan seat mounts are different. Anyway, if you have one, contact me - I'm sure the repairer/insurer will approve any reasonable offers.

Trying to track down two parts on behalf of my repairer that they're having trouble tracking down: * R34 passenger side xenon headlight * R34 drivers seat for a sedan (not sure if this is different to the coupe) Drop me a PM if you know of where to source these or have them yourselves.

Aaron I'm guessing you're not willing to separate the pair? My car was recently involved in an accident and my repairer is looking for a passenger-side xenon replacement. Jenna

My car was recently involved in a fairly major accident that has damaged the rear-end, however I also hit the car in front of me, which damaged the passenger-side headlight mounts & front plastic. To that end, I'm trying to source a good quality un-yellowed, non-leaking passenger-side xenon headlight. We do have the ballasts & bulbs from the current headlight, so they're not necessary - but obviously makes things easier for fitment. Looking to hear back. As this is going through insurance, I'm sure any reasonable offer isn't going to be refused by my insurer.

The light going on and then going out tends to indicate that the amplifier has detected a problem and has gone into protection mode. You can confirm this by using a multimeter to verify that you are seeing 12V on the battery->ground and headunit-remote->ground connection to verify that the amplifiers are receiving power and that the headunit is continuing to tell the amplifiers to stay on. To isolate the problem, you need to eliminate variables. First, I would suggest removing all unnecessary wires from the amplifier - disconnect the inputs (RCA from the headunit) and outputs (speakers) - and just leave power/ground/headunit-remote connected. Then turn on the headunit, and see if the amplifiers then stay on. If this does not solve the problem, and you do get a continuous 12V signal from the headunit, there could be a bigger problem with the amplifiers, or that you have a short between the power/ground/headunit remote wiring (ensure there is no touching). If the amplifiers are now staying on without any input/output, you now need to start testing - first try hooking up - initially one - of the RCA sources from the headunit and then power the headunit up and see if this causes a problem. Essentially you need to play a game of elimination, working through your RCAs and speaker outputs to determine what is causing the issue. Good luck with it.

Must be 12 months for mine by now - still looking great. I'd previously tried plenty of other options - toothpaste, brasso, plastx, etc. All of them worked to better or worse degrees. The difference with glassylite seems to be in the UV sealant at the end. The others would work, but the the discoloration/yellowing would re-appear. With glassylite, it isn't yet *knock on wood*

Wow, sorry

I understood and understand what you're saying, but I also know Paul has been searching for authoritative information on the factory wastegate actuator.

That's with the 2psi bleed from the actuator post 4500rpm

Next time see if it is in all gears except for forth... Forth is the only gear that doesn't put pressure on the cluster shaft bearings. Could also be your input shaft bearing. Both are very common noises on our gearboxes.

hmmm .. hate to say it, but it's just what the wrecker needs to rebuild the ass-end of mine ..

I looked around for ages for them - pretty much got laughed at by the racing fratenity (those who really want the boss kits) for the idea... Sucks. Seems like a perfect security device to me.

I've looked around for detachable boss kits that are air-bag enabled; They don't seem to exist. Which means it would be defectable if your car was released with airbags.

Same people who think the cars in Hot4's or Fast Fours n Rotaries are cool?