jrm

<3 this site on iPad

I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself if you haven't done one before - you mess it up - it's engine rebuild time - as has been witnessed by some people on this forum ... Take it to a trusted mechanic ..

1000cc with 260hp? .. wha ..

If it hasn't done it's 100,000km service - then you need to do it immediately. This includes timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, timing belt idler bearing, tension belt idler bearing, tensioner spring, cam seals, front main crank seal, O2 sensor (if it wasn't done at 80,000km), ancillary belts (if they weren't done at 80,000km), fuel filter, oil filter, oil. It's a major service - and there could be more, depending on how well the car has been maintained. If you don't know the state of the car at all, it might also be worth considering diff oil change and gearbox oil change too... You can purchase kits that will cover the majority of the major RB25 100,000km service. Expect to pay $1200-2000 including parts and labor for this service. There's no requirement that I've heard of that a car have it's 100,000km service done when imported and complianced (regardless of km done) and hell, I've seen cars imported that haven't even had their basic fluids changed. I wouldn't trust it or what he says. I'd be pushing for him to drop the price to cover the immediate cost of servicing the car - or for him to provide authoritative proof that it has been done.

Given the work required to change it - you'd be silly not to do it at the 100,000km service time.

Guessing you're talking about: .. though it may not have the fog-lights as that one does ..

A question for those who have done it - how has anyone hooked up the GTR intake sensor on the GTR? It doesn't use a bung as in the exhaust temperature sensor, it screws in - which leaves me wondering how you would mount this up, and especially in such a way that it seals it up against pressure leaks, etc. Very interested to hear back from those who have done it ....

You can both the clips & mat holders from Nissan - I keep spares, cos mine keep breaking... Really, Nissan is the perfect source for this stuff - I wouldn't go anywhere else.

As a follow-up to my post back in July - it's now 2 months later, and no signs of yellowing yet. Maybe the UV sealant it uses does work. Either way, I'm pretty impressed

'kay - just wanted to clarify - because what most people call the 'nismo aero' kit isnt - the pic I posted before *is* the nismo aero kit front-bar (very rare). Most people have the altia front bar and call it the 'nismo' one. Just thought it was worth clarifying.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime? Is it turning over and just not starting or what? More of a description about what it's doing when you attempt to start it would be useful. Could be almost anything.

Is the front bar like this?

It won't run on the standard ECU. You could go Nistune, but you have an R33 which means you'd need to use an R32 or Z32 ECU - plenty of threads about using it anyway. With that starting point, search is probably your best bet.

Rears are typically used for fill - only time you'd use 6x9 in the rear is when you don't have a subwoofer ... Most people want their music to sound like it's coming from in front of them ...

My biggest worry with a non-highflow turbo upgrade is if/when I get defected, Regency spy that it's not the factory turbo and it's more $$$ out of pocket...

Stao @ Hypergear can do 2871/3071 CHRA-based highflows for factory RB25 turbos .. though if you already have a 2530 probably not an option (unless you still have the old turbo floating around).

Wouldn't a GT3071R be more suitable ..?

I got 182.7kw on the same dyno (R34 manual, 3" exhaust, peak of 8.5psi, untuned ECU) on the same day ..

Agree 100% on both counts - especially the amazing different between Bendix and QFM .. I love my QFM HPX pads - with braided brake lines, BCS, good quality brake fluid - it's a winning combination...

Was an alarm / immobiliser fitted?

It's your responsbility to ensure your plate is visible. If your tint is that dark, or you have a spoiler in the way obscuring visibility or whatever - you'd be aware of that - and it's your responsibility to place the plate in a more appropriate location that is visible by other motorists. I had a friend who got hit with the same fine because his P-plate fell down (and you could clearly see where it used to sit from the mark on the glass - and how it had fallen). So yeah. I'd probably take it to court, especially if you're going to loose your license over it. But it might be best to consult some legal advice and see what likelihood you have of getting out of it.

Almost all of those Telstra phones are actually owned by Telstra - not by the home-owner. It may tell you on the back of it.

...

Isn't it typically illegal to put an older motor into your car when you do an engine-swap? I'd be checking your local motor authority about it...

I get maybe 300-350km till when I fill up (typically 50-52L) - I know it's terrible - and I know it's overfuelling to hell. I do mainly very short runs 10-15 minutes max. It still gets 500-600+ on the highway though .. I suspect my thermostat is probably whacked, which isn't helping (seems to take way too long to warm up and was having overheat problems in summer). Not to hijack the thread for my own needs - but does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to get replaced - the part only seems to be maybe $50... Was figuring I'd get it done with the 100,000km service in a few months - but I think it might have to come sooner.