jrm

Here's a link to a thread of a guy selling nismo 480cc injectors: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=398294 Perhaps you can compare the pictures? Anyway, I'm pretty sure the only nismo direct drop in for the R34 GTT is the 480cc's ..

is this kit still available? It is - but doesn't doesn't include as much and costs more Nissan RB25DET (R34, C34 Neo Engine) - Starting From Only$492.80 Standard Kit Components: * Genuine Nissan Timing Belt (Optional Upgrade to Trust/GReddy or Gates Racing) * Genuine Nissan Water Pump (Optional Upgrade to Nissan N1 Item, Where Applicable) * NSK Timing Belt Idler Bearing (Ex RB20E) * NSK Tension Belt Idler Bearing * Genuine Nissan Tensioner Spring * Genuine Nissan, or Aftermarket, Cam Seals * Genuine Nissan, or Aftermarket, Front Main Crank Seal Ref: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...vi-t137554.html

awww don't pike out on us krish-man

The copper washer? Nissan - like $2 each.

Use 98.

So who in SAU:SA is going?

Well I enjoyed myself tonight... Always good to put faces to names

I should probably head down now - I need to chat with Ruby anyway. I barely know anyone - but I stand out like a sore thumb .. lol ... I should bring my iPad and look like an Apple fag .. haha.

*BSD FOREVA!

Odd thing I noticed on the box of yellow jackets I received today "6 month warranty". So it's actually 2 years? *bit confused* ... If it IS two years then I feel a hell of a lot more comfortable - got a bit worried at the warranty mentioned on the packaging ....

Input / clustershaft bearings

Agreed with above - I've searched and searched ... Don't believe there is a single off the shelf front-mount intercooler that will fit without cutting the reo bar. If you want it, you'll probably need to go custom made. If you can live with cutting the reo (potential insurance / defect issue if you get caught) then the blitz return-flow is probably your best bet.

Pretty sure they also assist with the cooling effects of the car in terms of the air-flows ... (seem to recall reading that somewhere where they did back-to-back testing..)

Pulling the fuse on R33/34 will definitely cause issues - no idea on R32, however (as it's hydraulic), but I would imagine so.

The yellow-top is over 3 years old - If it had pushed it over the edge into 'new battery' territory, I wouldn't have been too upset. The last optima in my SSS only lasted about 3-4 years, though it got drained to nothing a whole lot more .. .... Hmmmm .. keep looking outside at the weather and thinking of going for a long drive down Clarendon / Meadows way ..

Please, god - no! .. NOT another one... Use [sEARCH] - this has been covered about 10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000ty-billion times already..

If you use a HICAS-capable boss kit, this would mate up to the steering sensor and not have an issue with HICAS (or the light). I would argue you *will* have issues with the hicas being disabled - though I'm not sure how the HICAS system will fail on each car. For instance, if you pull the HICAS fuse in most cases, it will cause the light - but the rear steering rack will be let 'loose' and not lock the wheels straight ahead (which will cause a very unpredictable rear end) - and if it's driven like that too long will require the rear steering-rack to be replaced ... (I know this from experience..)

After about 4 hours on the charger last night she started a dream. Took it it for a good 90 minute - 2 hour drive after .. damn it was nice

Yeah - I just hadn't really thought about it TBH ... It's usually the SSS that doesn't get driven regularly, not the R34 and I normally do kick it over if I hadn't run it regularly. The fun of having two cars! I guess I wasn't expecting to drive the R34 this long. Just been slack doing all the detailing inside and out, taking longer than I expected ... but damn it looks sex The R34 has an optima yellow top, from having them in my cars over the years, they're usually pretty good with getting this empty compared to regular batteries. It should be good by morning.

Car still isn't starting - I guess nearly 2 weeks without driving it really drained it .. LOL .. oh well. It's on the charge, should be good by morning... .. I really want to get into more social stuff with SAU:SA so yeah

... thought I was getting down there, but when I tried to start the car the battery was dead - I hadn't driven it all week! Tried the jump starter, nearly kicked over - then nothing. Been on the charger for 30 minutes, still no go .. bleh Really wanted to chat to Ruby about 100,000km service stuff, fuel pumps n stuff - and see what the SAU:SA stickers look like ..

Wonder if I should head down for a change ..

240rwhp sounds incredibly low for your setup, even with 12psi. My car (R34GTT), with a 3" turbo-back exhaust, Blitz FMIC, factory turbo & untuned ECU is seeing 245rwhp (182.7rwkw), peaking 8psi in the mid-range, and 7psi by peak power (factory boost control). Got more than a few people surprised (This was on an SAU:SA dyno day, on what people say is an accurately reading dyno)

I don't think I've been spotted on the forums in 3.5 years of R34 ownership ... Closest I've gotten is Normster who I ended up chatting at a service station ...

I'm pulling 182.7RWKW from my manual R34 GT-T with just a 3" turbo-exhaust + Blitz FMIC (peaking at around 8.5psi, dropped off to 6psi by peak power) on what I've been told is a fairly conservative dyno - with a factory tune ... yeah - I was surprised too