jrm

Personally, I ended up using a Lian-Li Armorsuit PC-P80B - big case, solidly built, has 12 x 5.25" drive bays. I added in 4 x Lian Li EX-H34's. These are basically 4-in-3 hot-swap SATA bays, giving me 16 SATA hotswap bays. For controllers, I'm using a pair of PERC/5i - I picked these up on eBay for - I think - about $190ea. These are basically 2 port SAS controllers, that you can use SAS -> SATA cables on, to basically get 8 SATA ports per card. They'll support, RAID0, 1, 5, 50. If you want RAID6 (and slightly higher performance) you really need need the PERC/6i. I'm running two RAID sets, my original 8 x 500GB in RAID5 (this was originally 4 x 500GB when I first built it 3 years ago), and my second new RAID set I build about 3 months ago in the latest upgrade, consisting of 8 x 1500GB in RAID50 (bigger disks, wanted more redundancy - would have preferred RAID6, but unfortunately the controller lacks the support). Right now I'm only using about 4TB of space of the 12.5TB usable right now, so I'm probably going to decommission the old 8x500GB RAID5 in the next month or so and move the data to the new RAID50 (Still, 9TB usable). Later, when I'm ready, the controller/case will be all primed up for 2TB (or larger - whatever's the right price/size point at the time) to give me additional space as my needs grow. For backups, I'm using 3 x 2TB drives connected via the motherboard SATA ports with eSATA external connections. It works well for me, and should give me room to expand in the future with bigger/more drives via eSATA. I've been contemplating some of the 4-bay SATA external drive bays which connect back with a single eSATA cable (using with a port multipliers), which should provide 8TB backup space with 2TB drives, and more as drive-sizes increase. Anyways - thought I'd give you my perspective. As a warning, I work in high-uptime, high-SLA environments for my job, so my views on servers, etc has been definitely skewed by it.

You'll get a lot more interest if you post pics.

doesn't sound like much of an immobiliser ..

Yes, it's a return-flow kit. I don't have much choice but to make my own brackets - it's turning out to be lots of trial and error - I think I might have it - i'm persevering! I just hoped things would go a lot smoother than this!

I didn't get any brackets - ahh the joys of s/h kits. This is why I've had to try and guess about positioning and make up my own brackets .. I think maybe it might fit if I mount it about an inch or more lower, but then I'd be worried about whether the lower piping is gonna fit. It seems like a very precise/tight fit to me. This is turning into way more trouble than it's worth.

I've spent most of this week off sick, and got frustrated driving my other car all the time... Thought I'd rip the reo off and size up how bad the situation was. So, removed reo, mounted the FMIC up, making sure it was high enough that the the bottom return pipe fits under the undertrays. So, assessing the reo, there's no way it can even fit no matter what I do - it hits on one of the top mounts. Sits perfect on the passenger-side, but drivers-side - not a chance - even if I moved the FMIC across as far right as I could. I'm bloody confused and exhausted Top view: No way that it's gonna fit under that mount: Fits perfect here: I'm just about ready to give up - anyone have any ideas..?

... hate to imagine what that costs... but damn does it look hot.

Tried jaycar? I usually buy packs of it there pretty cheap to get various sizes, etc.

As someone who drove their R34 for about 9 months on NSW rego cos I was too slack to get it transferred over, I can assure you I got pulled over about on about a monthly basis for a 'license check' and at RBT checks where they close off the road, I'd have to give reasons why I was driving a NSW rego car around... Since transferring to SA rego, I have only been pulled over once in nearly 3 years since (though I did get defected ...)

Eh, I personally think R34 sedan's without spoilers look dumb. I upgraded mine from the standard sedan to the coupe spoiler because I felt it suited the lines of the car far better - gave it more 'balance'. Here's a pic of the result: ... eh, maybe you guys don't agree - but I prefer it.

I have the same problem - I'm guessing this is to do with the same thing that eventually turned into IPS database errors ...?

People who put R32 (10psi) actuators on their R34 typically have their boost sit rock-solid on 10psi, so not sure that's true. I suspect it's more of a case with the factory 5psi actuators being overcome by the extra flow of a new exhaust which is why they flow higher, but maybe I'm wrong. I'd be sticking with the current actuator and seeing how you go - replace it if it becomes an issue. (And yes, boost controllers can only go as low as the wastegate actuator is)

C35 Laurel? Might be outside your budget tho .. I quite like the R34 4-door for me, but I don't know how practical it would be with all three rear seats used by kids ...

Ahhhh .. so it was the gauge! What have you done to rectify it? Sounds a bit odd .. the regular vs nismo 3-gauge cluster is quite different - almost sounds like you changed the faces over or something

How much would something like that (with braided lines) cost you reckon?

Hmmmm .. your windshields look so damn good - usually they go sorta purple from UV after a while. Have you re-sprayed them?

Did you trim your reo tho? I've seen a few pics of r33 and r34 now - and their fans seems to be nothing like mine; The motor on my fan sits heaps further out ..

Is that an aftermarket gauge? Cos +7 on the standard gauge is 14psi (1bar) ... Either way, could still be plugs/coils breaking down (as above) ...

Well, according to this page about 188 kph ...

Aftermarket gauge will typically be hooked up to a different point, so should be fine. As long as the piping from the plenum is going into the boost sensor, and the sensor is plugged in fine, should be good. You could also try reading the voltages out of the boost gauge - the R34 service manual lists what voltages associate with what boost levels (will rule out whether it's sensor or gauge failure) I'd offer to drop past and let you try out my boost sensor, but the front end of my car is in pieces at the moment for fitting FMIC and not sure it's gonna be driving for another week or so... (depends how lazy I am)

Wow. Just wow, okay - I just learnt something. The R33 fan is *totally* different to the R34 fan. The R34 fan the middle part has a plug and sticks *way* out from the housing - like maybe a good inch out. That's what the FMIC I'm trying to fit is hitting on. If ARC needs trimming on this fan, then I reckon any FMIC would.... bugger! Oh well, there goes my thought that maybe I could get rid of the Blitz and try an ARC

I thought I might try having a go fitting up the Blitz LM FMIC I bought ages ago. Unfortunately, I can't get it to fit without cutting the reo - which is something I really didn't wanna do (specifically bought the Blitz cos I was assured I wouldn't need to cut reo). ... pondering taking a pass on it and selling it on now ... *sigh* On an even crappier note, when I went to fit the FMIC found someone has what looks like punched my front drivers-side guard; Guessing it was earlier tonight when I was parked at shops, came back and a bunch of young punk-types hanging around their cars just across from mine - all laughing between each other n gave me shit when I drove off. Wish I'd realised at the time. So - anyone know anyone who does cheap paintless dent repair? Crappy night has been crappy.

Any more details / pics of this? I've been looking at fitting a Blitz LM FMIC to my car at the moment, and there's no way it's gonna clear the aircon fan housing and I don't feel real comfortable cutting into it.

Is the hose still intact from the plenum? One of the times my gauge failed, I found the hosing split to pieces, barely noticeable - but it just sat on 0 (or just off). I think they fall to pieces after a few years in a hot engine bay - it was terribly brittle.