QWK32

nah mate, you need the one on the firewall of the engine bay, it should read something like 6U900xxxxxxxxxx

why wouldn't this work. if you could manage to get/make a plug adapter, to go from blue type to grey type. or just cut the old plug off and join the blue type on, it wouldn't be that big of a deal would it?

might get a few items from the whiteline catalog, or nistune setup, or put it towards a new tig welder (hello custom IC/intake piping). either way i'm happy, i love getting something for nothing

i sized up the fronts on my S2 RS4V when i had them off last. i took all the measurements with a steel rule. Diameter = 289mm Rotor Thickness = 28mm Offset = 41mm

that brown connector is a common ground link. the 4wd light shouldn't be on. have you done a diagnostic on he ecu and 4wd system to see what turns up?

if you dont have the ignitor pack you need the SF-DIS-005. they are for the S2 coil pack setup.

just thinking about using a R34/S2 ecu on a S1 engine, i've seen a thred on here about people putting the RB25 NEO into there R33's and using the R33 loom and ecu, they just have to change a couple of things to get it to work, i know the cas wiring is reversed between the two for example. so i'd assume that it would work doing it the other way, you would just have to do similar to what was done in that conversion. i don't know how relevant this is to the auto stagea guys though. how is the auto controlled in the S1? does it have a seperate auto ecu?

what doesn't fit? the plug onto the coil, i can see in the pic that the little sidetab things appear to sit lower on the splitfire than on the oem one. what part number is on the splitfires? and do you have an ignitor box at the bck of the coilpack cover?

funny how everyones is on the left hand side, thats where mine was. anyone had/got one in the right hand side?

i dont think Al was trying to insult you, i just read the thred and in your 2nd post your asking where the spark plugs are. can you see how that could be taken as some one that doesn't know what they are doing. now for the problem, have you done all the basic checks: intercooler piping and joins all good, spark plugs are healthy and you have spark to them, the wolf map sensor vac line is ok as Al has mentioned. Al - i thought you could set up the wolf to use a graph, MAP vs RPM, for the load points. so a tps isn't needed. i know on the old V4's you could.

will that be worth it though? i mean, the money we save on the purchase needs to offest the local shipping to get it to everyone who bought one. i think at 8% discount its around a $20 saving, local postage will be around that.

i'm sure you will be ably to re-use the turbo bolts. and if your stock cat is bolt in just re-use them as well.

saw a silver S1 parked out in front of the entrance to Cannon Hill shopping center today at around 3pm.

i haven't seen a field harness to do a R34/S2 type plug to a R32/R33 plug type conversion. it would have to be a custom job. field harness looks like this Ryan, http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/245...ormal/Image.jpg

yeah i think it we might be better off buying them individually from RHD. as you say they have come in the cheapest option.

heard back from JDM Performance today. here is the email: how'd you go with RHD Ryan?

look at his number plate compared to Jezboosteds

nissan fast is the parts software that nissan uses. there are two versions out there, the common one that covers cars up to 2001ish, and the newer one which only a few people have, but it covers all the newer model cars like the M35 and V35 aswell. when you do a fast check you put your VIN number in the software and you can see how your car came from factory, wheather it was a turbo or not, manual or auto, what colour it was, and if it had any factory fitted options. its also good for getting part numbers.

just your hands Chris. its not under heaps of tension but just be aware that it will spring up.

its not that they become brittle, but if they are being slammed down too tight with a rattle gun, or even using too much force with a breaker bar, you can stretch the thred. so when you try to remove them they bind up and you end up snapping them off.

it dims the cd players back light when you turn on your lights.

yep, thats it, do it to both sides of the bush. also be carefull when pulling that bolt out as the control arm will spring up a bit when you remove it.

and here is a pic of the bush i'm talking about.

i had the same thing. and i know the frustration in trying to find it. but i ended up finding it. pull the wheel off and undo the bolt at the front of the upper control arm. the is a bush in there with a spring assisted lip seal on it. get some lubex or inox or similar and spary it inside that bush. i poped the spring off and gently lifted the seal up with a small flatblade screwdriver and spayed a heap of Lubex in there. when you are putting it all back together, put the bolt back in and just nip it up. then lower the car first before doing it up tight.