QWK32

mine flutters, not a quick reversion flutter, a spaced out one. and if i look up the end of it and pull in the accelerator cable to to the turbo spooling the bov still opens, and thats only on like 1 psi. i though that it wasn't opening properly at first but it is. its got something to do with the dual action its got. if you quickly close the throttle it just dumps it fast but if your working the pedal and slowly letting it off it will flutter.

thats what they sound like, with enough boost pressure. flutter then squeek.

HKS Super Sequential.

how much power though? you need a multimeter to test how many volts are getting to the plug. i don't if the microtech works the same but other ecu's will send a signal to a relay to switch and give power to the pump, might be worth checking that. maybe relay is shagged and not giving a good connection when it switches.

internal circlip pliers

did you buy the car fairly standard? if so it probably wont have one installed. look under the back of your car at the back of the diff. if there is a bar there insted of a big electric motor (looks like a big windscreen wiper motor) then you have one. again do a search, there are pics around that show what these bars look like and there position. try the diagnostic, it'll give you a better idea

a/f gauges arent accurate unless your are talking about a wide band o2 sensor and gauge

just trace they wire till you find it. the switch is up under your hand brake. you'll have to take some of the center console apart to get to it

its also common for the little plastic square drive on the cluster end of the speedo cable to wear out and give false reading. happened to me, speedo was out by about 15 k's then it bounced around for a couple of days the just died.

a circlip holds it on

its the hand brake shoes engaging. they are like little drum brakes inside the center part of the discs. when you pull the hand brake up when your moving they spin around until they hit their stops and engage fully. normal action.

i think i'm going to need a bigger 5c piece jar

do a search on this forum. there is a tutorial on how to do it and what the codes mean. no not your speedo. the speed signal for the computer, lets your computer know how fast you are going and lets that the hicas ecu knows how fast you are going so it can do its thing. its an easy way to remove you speed cut but it stops you hicas starting up properly. do you know if there is a hicas lock bar installed?

boostr32 : like its already been said find a better ground and power signal. if that doesn't work the timer has probably shit itself. there could be a dodgey connection under your drivers side dash and when you are pressing the accelarator and clutch in its pulling/bumping/disrupting the ground or 12v supply. dmr: there is a wire on most timers that goes to your handbrake switch. theory being that if some one tries to steel your car when the timer is still running your car will shut off when they take the hand brake off. does your handbrake light come up on your dash when the hand brake is on? if it doesn't you hand brake switch is probably shagged on has lost its connections. if it does then the signal wire to the timer has lost its connection to the hand brake switch.

r33's have an electric hicas unit, no fluids envolved. try running the hicas diagnostic to see if you get an error code. i've also herd of hicas on 33's playing up when they aren't get enough volts/current. another thing, do you know if you still have your speed limit intact (180km/h) if its disabled by cutting the speed signal wire on your ecu that will also stuff hicas around.

Leads? what leads? coil packs are mounted directly on top of plugs. have you tried cleaning you aac valve? the is a DIY thred on here somewhere. also check for vaccum leaks

you could use th 32 box but i wouldn't count on it lasting long, they're not the strongest of box. your talking about putting a rb25det in a 32 and using the 32 box, tht could be done. 32's and 33's have different final drive (diff) ratio's so your speedo would be out if you put a 33 box on a 32 diff.

when you use the safc to lower the afm signal so you can controll the afr's the ecu will also retard timing causing issues. i'm assuming your trimming alot of they afm signal to get a decent afr?

don't cat convertors that are stuffed/colapsed make whistling noises.

search for ecu diagnostic on this forum, there is a few "how to's" also if you know someone with a consult cable and software they might be able to help find out if there is an ecu error code or not.

i've seen one of the cheepo ones being sucked to pieces by a high flow turbo.

usually after installing a cooler you will notice a small (realitivly insignificant) pressure drop. the turbo outlet pressure may be 10psi but gauges taken from the inlet plenum would be less, 9psi for example. some of the pressure is lost in getting the flow through the cooler and pipes to your engine. fitting an exhaust will help it to spool up quicker, exhaust coming from you engine is under pressure and being released into the dump pipe through the turbine housing. the bigger exhaust creates a low pressure at this point so the exhaust gasses will speed up, hence your turbo spools up quicker and can maintain a slightly higher rpm. more turbine rpm gives more compressor rpm which gives more boost. anyway enough rambling, did you know if its the standard wastegate actuator? one of a 32 can bolt on and will produce 10psi.

32's are push. and no you cant use a 34 clutch on a 33 unless you have the 34 box to follow it.

where you located? R32 GTST or GTR?

what condition are the injectors in? do you also have the resistor pack?