QWK32

you sure its half a mil. thats heaps thin. wouldn't be very strong?? use a saw of some kind (jigsaw, hacksaw). aluminium just clogs up grinder discs and then they don't cut properly, the metal is too soft. if you have to use the grinder because you have no other choice go and get some 1mm stainless cutting discs, they work ok, not the best finish.

just in case anyone is interested here are a fewpics with the compressor covers off Steel wheel Nylon/Plastic wheel when i put my car back together i'm going to use the series 2 one, its newer and from what everyone is saying it performs a little bit better at standard boost. i just had to go through the process of drilling out broken exhaust manifold bolts, 5 in total so i have the turbo out anyway.

i used to get something like this when i'd be driving around for a while and the all of a sudden it would idle rough and be abit sluggish. i installed some splitfires and left off the cooilpack cover plate and it hasn't done it since then. been about 6 or so months. i think the heat was getting to the coilpacks.

your resting tps volts should be between 0.3 and 0.4 volts. any less and you get this lag effect, any more and your car revs higher. and the wire to test is on the plug attached to the small length of wire coming out the bottom of the tps, not the one on the side. thats your throttle on off switch. its the middle wire i think, one will be ground, one will be 5v and the other variable (thats the one).

that cylinder as you call it is your Variable Valve Timing Actuator. Didn't the clear cover come with the raised bit to accomadate it? from what i understand some of the 33s didn't have VVT (i think) so maybe you got a cover for that type, without the raised section. another thing is that from what i've heard its hard (or impossible?) to run an adjustable camgear on the intake side of a VVT engine without heavy modification.

spotted a light blue r33 with big rims, black bonnet, turning onto creek rd from richmond rd. 61VUP

thats a stock one. it looks like its already been modded to take a fmic.

1600 isn't steep at all for a rb20 one, they don't make them anymore and they are rare as. i'd snap it up if i just didn't get an emanage i've found them on a web site somewhere selling the ap engineering ones for like 2300 brand new.

on my mates car he hit the remote start button, car kept on cranking but wouldn't start, we walked over to see what was going on and BANG? it backfired from all the fuel, back out the intake and blew the side out of his custom plenum. i've also heard of them doing damage to starter motors.

mines ok, not too tight, and will go in while im moving along with out giving it a rev.

don'tt think the bits would make it to the engine to damage it. just get stuck in the intercooler

yeah i'm there for the next couple of weeks. not in my car though, doing work to it so its undrivable. havent seen the r33 yet, i'll keep an eye out. also spotted a yellow 34 at the intersection of creek and old cleveland rd this morning, 7.45amish plates were OOR-34

spotted white 34 4door at Mt Gravatt TAFE. plates 219 KKO i think

thanks, i haven't had any experiences with the plastic compressor wheel turbo's.

straight from the R32 workshop manual Model : Engine ---------------------------------------- E - FR32 : CA18i E - HR32 :: \ _ RB20E E - HCR32 : / RB20DE E - HCR32 : \_ RB20DET E - HNR32 : / E - ECR32 : RB25DE E - BNR32 : RB26DETT

keep in mind there are two bulbs in each front blinker

i've just stripped them down and come to the same conclusion as RANDY and MANWHORE. one is steel wheel and one is plastic. yeah is for an rb20, i already had the steel wheel one on there, and managed to get the other one fairly cheap so i grabbed it. so the plastic one would be better to run, i.e quicker spool, better power? and would i be right in saying they would be very prone to blowing up if overboosted? safely boosted at 14psi on an everyday driver?

get a std 33 turbo. they go well on a rb20 and a cheap straight forward no messing around upgrade.

do you have an alarm/immobilizer? turbo timer? any thing that could be messing around with the wire that hold your car in the "ON" mode? something that could be bumped or pulled for a second and then reconnecting (dodgy connection). that could cause what you are explaining.

Hi everyone. i have in my possesion two turbo's that have come off r33's. One i don't know what series it came off and its is labeled 45v3, i one i am told has come off a 97 series 2 r33 and it is labeled 45v2. Now i have done some searching and from what everyone is saying that there is no difference in them. on a visual check they both look the same, but if you look at my attached pics they have different compressor wheels. and thats the only difference. 45V3 45V2 my questions are, is this normal? and will one perform better than the other? thanks

i've installed an ebay one before and i noticed that if you put the bottom moon plates on upside down it clamps the gear stick up hard and you get the wine. flip them up the other way and the square plate does up tight but doesn't clamp the shifter up hard, just enough (about 0.5mm to 1mm clearance between the square plate and the top of the box), and you then get no wine. can you spin the square bit around with your hand or is it locked up tight?

^^^^ thats right. yeah, i forgot, if you don't get a boss kit that is hicas compatible your hicas wont work. got to do with the stearing angle sensors in there somewhere.

can you run two afms. i think with a safc you can have two inputs and convert it to one output then feed that signal into the pfc. or is the powerfc able to do this conversion aswell.

it appears to be sitting ok at the corner above the headlight. to me it looks like the bonet is bent up at the front, like someone has tried to muscle it open on you.

hmmm... what i'm talking about only happens when you first pull it up, then it stops every time after that because the shoes are already spun to their place. atleast until you stop and use the hand brake to keep you parked. then they may move back and you will get that noise again. but are you saying its happening every time, one after an other all in a row?