QWK32

SAFCII can have two maps. just have to swap them over in the settings. emanage you will have to have two maps saved on a laptop and plug the cable in a load the new one on to swap it over. (not a quick way) manual boost controller will be ok, you'll just have to wind it up and check your gauges. EBC could be easier if you don't have to start mucking around with the gain settings and stuff. i don't know that you can get a piggyback and EBC all in one. you can buy the greddy profec E01 (i think thats what its called) and use it with the emanage blue and no, you cand remove factory speed cut with the SAFCII or emanage. without getting the additional injector and ignition wiring harnesses for the emanage you might as well get the safcII. also and most importantly make sure you know someone that can tune them.

i ran mine 14psi for over a year until i upgraded. no fin damage and minimal shaft play.

also aren't gtr injectors top feed and gtst side feed?

a little over 200rwkw. upgrade the turbo as well and 250rwkw or more. i wouldn't go gtr injectors though. i though r33 had 370cc standard. gtrs are only 440cc, thats not much of an increase. power fc would be able to handle bigger injectors and tune them down plus when you do more upgrades in the future you would already have the injectors to handle it. 550cc, 700cc even.

nope. he would do it. i'm not bothered about it anyway, just thought i might as well since i'm getting the rest of the car done.

no, without the upgraded ecu how are you going to control those bigger injectors, and the increased flow and pressure from a bigger turbo.

if you go back to one of his earlier post he says the fact that you have a series 2 motor being controlled by a series 1 loom doesn't have anything to do with it. you swapped everything over. didn't you? have you checked your connections to the starter motor? its abit worrying when you say you wouldn't know where to start with a multimeter and your attempting to fault find a clearly electrical fault. i'm not having a go at you, everyone has to start learning somewhere. to me it sounds like you haven't got enough power going to the starter. bad connection somewhere? altenator to starter motor connection?

get every thing else first before the turbo. eg injectors, FMIC, ECU, fuel pump, etc. there would be nothing worse than getting a turbo and ecu and paying to get it tuned to find out that it cant be tunned to full potential because of say, injectors maxing out.

might have something to do with other drivers not being able to see you lights as clearly.

yeah, don't do it on the dyno, waste of money, all i'm doing with mine is driving around and tweeking it.

check your fuild level. check the master and slave cylinder for leaks. doesn't sound like your clutch is buggered. just that the cylinders aren't doing thier job properly.

yeah i got the same thing when i got my tint put on. asked for really dark tint on the sunroof and got, "we cant tint sunroofs because they crack and even shatter when they are heated." something to do with them being tempered glass i think.

why? your car would be sitting higher at the rear by about 20mm. also you will be going faster than what you speedo reads.

emanage with the injector and ignition harness is far better than te safc. but you do need the support tool or E01 to reap the benifits. SAFCII can be tunned from the unit but is only a afm signal bender. emanage does afm signal bending, injector duty cycle and ignition timing. SAFCII is about 8 wires emanage is about 30 wires (with all harnesses) SAFCII can be picked up for about half the price of an emanage with all harnesses and support tool. basicly the emanage is the next step up from a SAFCII

block it off. i just got one of these a couple of days ago aswell. i've got the manual in front of me. page 36.

relay. look in the fuse box in the engine bay fir the headlight relay. try swapping it for another one and see if that works.

and big 4WD's coming out factory standard with road tires.

the new suzuki swifts have no foot rest beside the clutch pedal, and not enough room to rest you foot on the floor beside it.

like you say, maybe your car was set right 15deg (or 30deg with the timing light not double wrapped) and you retarded it back too far so as to get a reading of 15 (or as it would be now 7 ). how is you car running at the new setting?

check that the lug at the end of the earth cable that you attached to the engine is clean and the surface you bolted it to aswell, you've got to have good metal to metal contact.

NZ VL's had a RB20E in them.

just thought about it. you probably don't have an igniter pack hey?

i've got a cheap one and it picks up fine off the igniter pack loop. just twice the value, 15deg show up as 30deg. unless you double wrap the loop then its right. and i have tested this at a workshop to see if it was accurate or not.

ok. wasn't sure, just a thought, i was asking if this was the case.

without the center bearing in there would the gearbox cop all the shocks and bumps from the diff?? the std one has that little bit of in and out movement at the center bearing, is this to take the shocks from the rear? a one piece doesn't have this.