QWK32

wouldn't pay anymore than 120ish for one in good condition. they dont have a specific number, apart from the nissan stamp and 16v n them.

pic?

you will feel more power. also will have it leaning out under full boost which is bad, very bad.

i've seen a 3540 run successfully on an auto 32, laggy to start with but once its on, its all good. never a manual, most people would never think of it for the 2ltr.

yeah, if you don't have a boss kit that is hicas friendly the hicas computer cant start up properly and the light eventually comes on. there are a couple of sensors that tell the hicas ecu the direction you have turned the steering wheel, and some of the boss kits out there aren't compatible. on another note i have a momo steering wheel and boss kit and have never had any trouble with hicas.

lucky for you i have mine out of my car at the moment. the number on that chip is: top line:TD 313CK bottom line:62003AF hope this helps

get it fixed a soon as you can. not good to have brake/clutch fluid running into you car. ruins your carpet and eats up paint, nasty stuff to have leaking everywhere. but yeah they are about $100 to $120, takes about 45min to an hour to swap by yourself. easy to do aswell. you could get it rebuilt and seals changed but its easier to just get a new one.

hicas only kicks in after about 70. and the light only lights up when there is an error. one thing, do you have an aftermarket steering wheel at all? if so so you know if the boss kit is hicas compatible?

water is around 75 to 80deg

if you can get it on a dyno to see where your gains are then it would be worth it. from what i've herd the 33's on the majority benifit from having one installed and adjusted. but definantly need to see the curves to see where the right spot is.

the studs and nuts that hold the turbo's on are good to change. once they've been on for a while and you loosen them of they just don't have the same holding torque anymore. don't really want them rattling loose. lines would all depend on the quality of the existing lines and also the demand that the new turbos require. would want to starve them of oil and, if needed, water.

second that. i recently posted a topic about this same thing as i have a S1 and a S2 and was looking for differences. physically the same size, inlets, outlets, wastegate, everything the same except the s1 has a steel impellor and the s2 has a plastic/nylon. i even posted up a few pics of them to show the different wheels.

i'm running a setup close to yours and my injectors are running up to 92% duty cycle. i'm going for some around the 500cc mark. can easily handle the setup, with a tune of cause. go for something bigger than you need because in the future you may need the exta juice. i think it would be worth checking that you can get the remap tuned for the bigger injectors. and for the fuel pump, the walbro ones are a good, also the bosch. can get a bit more fuel supply out a the bosch units.

hmmmm...... nope, different engines. GTR RB26DETT, GTST RB20DET, are the common ones but there is about 5 or 6 different engines that the 32 came out with, of which a couple of them i never seen or heard of anyone having one. and yes GTR = 4WD, GTST = RWD or a 4WD (in the GTS4 models) i think you may need to find out a bit more about whats actually in it.

seems like your on the right track by looking for vacuum leaks. by "i dodged up the breather line to connect to this bov return" how dodgy do you mean? also have you checked the afm is plugged back in and properly.

i was looking for some not that long ago but decided againts removing the head. i found unique autosports down in nsw have arp head stud kits for about 300. they have a web site with them on it.

don't know how much it costs but you could try wormald. they test and refill if needed the ones at my work.

one of the settings will be as you say (the hot wire type), 3 in and 3 out, for you sensor type. and one of the settings will be for the afm signal. which car is it for? gtr will be 2 in and 1 out, for two afm in and one signal out to the ecu. and for single afm cars its just 1 in 1 out. but im sure the setting your talking about is the hotwire one. so 3 in and 3 out. and yes, if these are changed it affects your cars performace.

lol

have heard this as well. but still only rumours.

water temp for sure. unless your going to fork out the money for a wideband O2 sensor/gauge setup.

saves you sitting in you car for a few minutes to give it a chance to cool down abit. i have an apexi pen timer and they are a great little unit. easy to mount because they are so small.

get the internal waste gate welded shut and run an external wastegate. just a little 38mm one should do the trick

lol. nah i've been using the peak and last boost screen to help me tune it.