QWK32

i've used both of them and from what i can remember the safc only has 8 load points at 500rpm intervals and the safcII has 12 load points at 200rpm intervals. and also the knock signal readout and the option for 2 maps on the safcII. if you want more detailed info you might be able to try the apexi site?

i'm sure the safc2 has more load points then the safc and also has the option for two maps to be saved. the safc2 also has a knock reading feature that the safc doesn't.

yeah its the wire in so not vehical specific, and has no vvt function. and i'm sure its not the V4 plus, just the V4. basing this on the fact that it only has 4 ign outputs and 4 inj outputs. i have seen on the V4 plus it has the option for 6 ign outputs. i'm fairly confident it'll work that way just need to know what rpm the vvt change over occurs at, i've read 1100 ish on and 5500 ish off, can anyone confirm this. and what voltage will activate the solinoid, 12v i believe?

auto or manual?

is it a brand new unit? yeah that will work to see if its working or not.

recently i have been helping a mate install and tune a wolf 3d V4 onto a RB25DET NEO engine. it is a wire in ecu and as i worked through the wiring process it came to me that this ecu doesn't have the built in option of VVT control like th newer V500's. now what i have been thinking about that may work is to use one of the wolfs auxiliary outputs programmed to switch the vvt solinoid at a set rpm, most probably through a relay. for the people in the know would this work? or has anyone had any experience with the wolf V4 wire in on vvt engines? how did you do it? also what rpm does the vvt switch? and whats the solinoids operating voltage? i'm guessing 12v.

yeah the rb20 elbow has a slightly smaller pcd. as a quick fix so you can get it running untill you can source something else. you can drill out the rb20 elbow bolt holes to a larger size untill you get the bolts to pick up in their threds. i had to do this untill i got a rb25 elbow when i put a rb25 turbo on my rb20. its not ideal but it doesn't leak and gets you going.

a friend of mine did an auto to manual conversion on his 32 and had no problems with the shifter. another thing to think about is if the final drive ratio of the auto is the same as a manual. if not you speedo my be out a little. i dont know if the controll arms etc are the same but i would assume they are.

+1. safc cant change timing, only an air flow signal bender.

it may buzz a little but being a new solenoid i doubt it.

easy way to test the coil is to just power up the two coil wires one pos and one neg. if you here it click then it has switched. to further test this you could then blow through the line in hole and see if you get air through when it is on and none through when it is off.

i think you will find the n/a has 4 stud hubs. you'll have to swap yours over if they are still in good nick so you can use your gtr brakes.

we tried to get some tix from the bdo website last night but sold out before we got to them. then tried again this morning with the ticketek release but they sold out in 15min!!!!!

i always thought the hand brake shoes were self adjusting?

i've noticed tht the price of 33's is dropping quite low. don't know about over in WA but over he in QLD i've seen ones with mild mods, (exhuast, rims, fmic, bov, etc) go for as low as 11k.

yep. its wired in. hav eyou got the instuction steet handy read the bit about the auto feature. if you don't ten this is how it works. on the screen that displays "3 n 1" the "3" or the first value stands for the maximun number of minutes it will run for. 1 to 8 mins is accepted the "n" or the second value stands for the calculation rate of the timer, n = normal, h = high and l = low the "1" or the third value stands for the minimun number of seconds x10 it will run for. so a value of 1 is really 10 seconds. a value of 6 is 60 seconds or a minute. values 1 to 6 are accepted

firstly do you you get the a/f readout on the timer. if you do then its wired in. if you don't its easy to wire. the white wire with the red trace just gets spiced into the o2 signal wire on the ecu. cant tell you which pin it is but if you search for an ecu pinout diagram it will tell you.

vacuum line from the wastgate plumbed into the pressure side of the turbo

cause your going to run a high mount i would recomend it other wise you may end up damaging the paint on you bonnent. not to mention all the other things you are moving the hot tubine housing close to.

6 will be fine. i tig weld pretty much all day anything from as small as 1mm up to plate as thick as 15mm and use a flow rate of around 8 L/m to 5 l/m. amps are the same not mater where you are in the world. no such thing as imperial amps. they are all the same. and for that size plate i wouldn't go over 60. you don't happen to know the duty cycle of the welder? whats on the back of what you are welding? and any rust in that area?

yeah for the auto timer function to work you need the 02 sensor cable wired in. and there is different settings for the auto time amount aswell, like how quickly it adds time on.

go the emanage. the safc does ok when you have light mods but you say you want to run a hiflow. emanage lets you also play with the injector duty cycle, ignition timing aswell as air flow meter bending. just need to make sure you get all the harnesses and the support tool (so you can tune it).

1. go to the screen where the time setting is displayed 2. push and hold the little joystick thing to the right where you can manually set it higher. 3. then push and hold the joystick to the right again. the manual time should change and display "3 n 1" or something like that. thats the auto mode. i've never used it so i cant really tell you much more without going and digging up the manual.

if you take it the black steel pipe off make sure you still plum the breather line back into the intake

ok, i didn't see that you had an s13. you could source a crossover pipe from a ceffy, they don't come with a bov std so you'd have no hole to block up. then just block the large vacuum line and the small vacuum line that are attached to the bov and that will be all sweet.