QWK32

pin 43 is the ignition start signal. to tell the ecu when the car is cranking. CAS and MAF should only be 5v.

think about it. the weight of the car sits on top of the bushes. the lip stop the bushes slipping though the subframe. so the car is held nicely to the subframe. the stock bushes are the same. just rubber or silicon filled.

i don't think the gear boxes are different just the angle of the shifter.

sensor is too hot. i get a similar probem on mine when the sensor gets to hot. and there is no point trying to tune a safc on low revs/cuising or idle because the car goes into closed loop and "tunes" itself.

are you running coils that don't sit onto of the sparkplugs, do you have spark plug leads? if you are to test if your getting a spark or not you can unplug one of the leads, put a screwdriver up the end of the lead and hold the screw driver real close to the engine. then crank it over, if your coils are firing then you'll see a spark go between the screwdriver and engine. if you have top mounted coils you cant really do this. and if your continually cranking the car over its possible that you could drown the plugs in fuel then they wont fire properly.

also check out this site. its realitivly newish and the majority of the users a from the USA but it got some good info and some of the guys are fairly switched on with the emanage. http://www.emanageforums.com/

possibly air flow meter/s. when an afm is buggered you can start the car but it will stall shortly after. black smoke is fuel smoke and with a busted afm the ecu would know how much fuel to inject.

don't know how to reset the unit without the software. also when you load a newer version of the firmware on it takes all the maps back to std aswell. something to keep in mind if you get an update for it, backup your maps before upgrade and then reload them. if you get the plug in harness best option would be to only plug it in once you get it to a tuner or get the software. that way you can check the setup/maps straight away.

more info needed? like what car?

the cas is what sends the signal to the ecu to let the ecu know when to send the signal to spark. if your injectors were firing then i'd say your cas is fine because they also get there timing signal from the cas. if the cas wasn't working you wouldn't get a spark.

cool. i was asking for a friend but i believe he already called you about it a couple of days ago.

what coils are you running? i find it strange that it was running before you took it all out. have you checked the cas is working. i know you said your injectors are firing, how do you know this? did you use an injector signal tester?

ok. i have one of these with the ign and inj harness and on a 32 aswell. i trust that you also got the emanage support tool, (software and cable) or atleast a profec E-01 first of all are you any good/confident with wiring? if so its easy. i've got a few diagrams and stuff if you need them. first of all you need to assemble the harnesses. you get the std one already put together but the ign and inj harness need to be put together. just look on the diagram and push the wires into the right slot on the plug, the little lugs just push and clip in. easy with the diagram of wich colours go where on the plug. once you have done this your ready to wire it. 6 injectors right, so 6 injector wires that just splice onto them. 6 igition signals, these wires and cut and the ignition signal from the ecu is sent into the emanage, modified and then sent back out to the ignition module/coils. thats the ign and inj wires. then there are a few more wire to splice like throttle, rpm, power, gnd, also a afm signal splice and one or two more. easy? once wired in and running you can do a few things like, adjust injector duty cycle, + or - 30% ign timing. afm signal bending (just like the safc). you can even tell the emanage that your original injectors were 270cc and you new ones are 444cc (gtr) and it does the corection factors for you. if you install gtr injectors that is. if not just enter the new injector size and its all good. another thing that the emanage blue can do is you can buy the MAP sensor. you cant remove the afm but you can clamp the signal and when the afm max's out the emanage will use the MAP as its reading. compared to the emanage ultimate the emange blue does have less features but i think for a medium modified 32 it does the job for a good price. i've just got mine in and running not that long ago and am happy with it so far, i'm doing all the tuning myself, i've got a few toys to help me.

15 deg BTDC for manual and 20deg BTDC for auto.

if your looking for big power in the future than no. if you just looking to get the best out of a mild setup then yes.

i got a quote from just car for my 32 gtst with medium mods, full comp was $900, one loss of licence for accumulation of points and i'm on my opens and i'm 24. rego is like col said around the 600 mark for a year.

the sensor select menu isn't what your thinking it is. when you go to sensor select you get option relating to the setup of you afm and throttle. eg. when throttle is pushed does the signal voltage increase or decrease (skyline is increase) and if you are running 2 air flow meters in gtr's or if you are running a z32 or q45 afm. nothing to do with the knock signal in this manu. safc2 has a knock signal readout and but the neo doesn't have that option.

80w-90. and about 2.5 litres. personally i would run redline lightweight shockproof gear oil, but others may have a different opinion

when you cam pulleys are lined up on thier marks the crank pulley should be on the tdc mark, yours sounds like it isnt. i am sure about the doubling deal i've seen it many times. depending on if you have enough of the timing signal loop to wrap around the timing light inductor if you wrap it around twice it gives you the correct reading without haveing to half the value (using 30 as 15).

i left mine spring washer in. the shifter is abit tighter than the stock one but not by much. can you grab the square plate and turn it by hand? is it abit loose?

most timing lights double the timing reading on skylines. so really 30 BTDC is actually 15 BTDC. what you have done is take your timing back to 7.5 BTDC or really retarded hense the pinging and slow/sluggish feeling.

which way up do you have the half moon clamps? so the nuts welded on them is facing up or down. they need to be facing up, if they aren't it will clamp down on the shifter and stop it moving.

50mm by 90-95mm

hey mate still got the engine?

it wont be a problem if you cut the cat sensor wires. it just turns on a light on the dash when your cat is overheated. if the light comes on just take the bulb out. i've just had my subframe out and spent abit of time under the car and the only thing i can think of that comes out under the car in that spot is the hicas solinoid. don't forget to tape up the cut wires though