QWK32

search for the DIY. its got a few pics of the studs and how/where they go.

its easy to fast track coil failure by flicking your car to the on position without running the car for long lengths of time. the coils charge up but don't get to discharge the spark.

take the belts of one at a time until the sqeek stops, the last one you removed is the noisey pully. should be alright to run your car for a couple of seconds without and altenator/waterpump belt just to see if its the sqeeking one.

what model? auto or manual (auto converted to manual)? position in the car?

best to do it when the turbo is off and you can get in there, you don't really want to be pulling everthing back off in the near future to replace a blown gasket. also there might be more than the two that are gone or about to fall off. if you handy on the tools you can do it yourself, there is a write up somewhere on this site that shows the procedure for using a stud extractor, should be able to find it easy with a search. i've just had to do a few of mine, three of which were missing and another 3 just broke off when i put the spanner over them, and after all my searching for thred pitch and diameter it seems that all the rb's are and M10 x 1.25 stud (both ends) about 50mm long. about $2 - $3 each. to get the broken ones out i just use a left twist drill, works a treat, no stuffing around with the possibility of snapping a stud extractor or easy out. one thing to keep in mind is the limited space, you may need a right angle drill to get on the stud nice and square.

the noise from behind your dash could be the climate controll fan direction motors moving into place.

see if i can get a ticket first. but hopefully yeah.

here is the first release of the big day out 2008 line up http://www.bigdayout.com/lineup/artists.php RATM

the thing is a pain in the ass when you drop tools or bolts/nuts when your working on your car.

could be your a/c pulley bearings.

anyone in your boot?

no retune needed.

i dont know about the 34 but the on the 32 the drivers seat doesn't slide forward it only tilts forward. passenger side tilts and slides.

don't block it. your dipstick will shoot out of its hole and spray oil everywhere. its your oil breather and needs to be vented, either back into the intake, an oil catch can, or just with a filter attachment.

the later model sti's run 5 x 114.3 aswell. also the toyota soarer

helicoil the stripped thred

oxygen sensor is on the dump pipe and the EGT is on the cat.

205 55 r16 or 225 50 r16

i don't think the rb20 standard turbo can even handle 175 kw and last for more than a week. upgrading injectors and pump wont produce much more power unless you have the air flow to make it, like a bigger turbo. you'd be able to get a little bit out of it with the EMU but not that big of a step for the rb20 on a standard turbo. looks like its a good base for a turbo upgrade. if your worried about a turbo upgrade getting unwanted attention then a high flow is definantly the go. you've already got the supporting mods to make some good power.

early model r32 rb20's also have "RB20" stamped out on the timing belt cover. but nothing different mechanically

no no no..... the cas adjusts your base ignition timing, your thinking of you valve timing. your valves still open and close at the same time, with the cas you can adjust when the ignition/spark is fired. so when you retard your base ignition timing you infact delay your spark. buy advancing it you make it spark earlier. knock will occur if your timing is too far advanced or retarded too much.

here you go, looks like this hole centers are 105mm. this pic is for a 3" exhuast. std 32 exhuast is about 2.5"ish

hmmm.... true, tire size wouldn't affect it that much, 5 km/h mabye, not 20. did this just happen or have you done some work to the car? changed gearbox? swapped diff?

any exhuast shop dude. it just a standard 2 bolt gasket of what ever pipe size you want.