QWK32

going off what your saying you've disconnected you wastgate actuator vacuum line. thats why your overboosting. you can just connect or "T" this line into anywhere on the pressure side of you system.

coil might be on its last legs. ignitor pack might be playing up. check the wiring connections are ok. the coil pack electrical plugs are getting old and brittle on the rb20, one of them might not be making a good connections.

does the vibrating noise from your reg only happen when your low on fuel. my mates does this but only when he is low on fuel, he's running and aftermarket fuel pump setup and we think its sucking a little bit of air to start with.

been covered a few times before. check this thred out. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t8...hl=what+is+eccs

check the dimmer switch connections are ok.

id start with battery terminals, alternator connections, ground connection to the engine. then id have a quick squizz at the wiring for the turbo timer, especially up near the ign barrell. if you have an alarm/immobiliser and it interrupts the ign line, id check the connections for that. can you think of anywhere you've been poking around lately, anything you might have disturbed?

the voltage gauge might not have a fast reaction time. a split second voltage loss will be enough to cause problems.

sounds like your loosing voltage somewhere. alternator might be on its way out, something shorting out, or a loose connection on your "ign on" lines.

i haven't had any experience with the innovative units, but i can tell you that if its got some datalogging ability it make its so much easier to use. especially an afr to rpm graph. i personally would go for just a wideband sensor and gauge, why not make the whole process easier and get the one with the datalogging. you'll thank yourself when it comes time to tuning.

edit: misread question.

if it helps the vl manual yoke are the same. might be easier to find at the wreakers.

also check out http://www.wbo2.com/ i got one from these guys and it works a treat. haven't had a problem with it yet. aussie company too.

yep. 3 wires. +ve, ground and signal.

no i was going to say that i've had to find a problem on a friends car similar to yours and it turned out that the safc main power connection was a crap connection, so on occasions it would loose power for a second then come back on. but when it was loosing power the car wouldn't get an afm signal and just stall. once your car is running te altanator should be producing enough charge to run your car fine regardless of the battery condition. i wouldn't be looking at coil packs yet. doesn't sound like your problem is to do with coils. if you had a faulty coil pack your car would just run like crap (sound like a wrx). and the chances of more than one coil having an intermittent fault at exactly the same time is unlikely. but it could be an intermittent fault with your air flow meter. if the ecu looses signal from the afm you car will just stall. do you have access to another afm to try out? what aftermarket ecu are you running by the way?

hows your battery condition? have you checked to see if your coils are plugged back in the right way around?

stock fuel pressure is: when ignition switch is ON: approx 3.0 bar (45 psi) During idle: approx 2.5 bar (35 psi) Idling when press reg vacuum hose is removed: approx 3.0 bar (45psi) and you should remove the std fpr when running and aftermarket item. but yeah running it with the vac line removed will keep it in the open position. but it will be creating a restriction.

you dont have an safc do you?

you should get around 10v on the coil side of the ignition module during cranking and it should then rise to the battery voltage (13v ish) when the enginge is running. there will be 7 wires, one for each coil and a ground.

i'm sure one of them is for the hicas soliniod.

just been changing the spark plugs on my car and when i took one of the electrical plugs of the coil pack it fell apart. at the moment i've just used some shrink insolation on the 3 wires and pushed them back on but i dn't want to leave it like this. does any body know if you can buy the plugs? or am i best to try and find a secondhand loom?

i had it last night for the first time this week. couldn't get back onto the site for about half and hour. happened when i was changing to the next page.

i thought they were all the same. i've used a vl (rb30) water pump on an rb20det before with no trouble.

is there a hicas lock bar installed? if so just take the instument cluster out and remove the HICAS bulb. if the hicas is still on there then my guess is when the engine conversion was done the links between the std r32 ecu and hicas ecu were lost. i'm not sure if the rb25 ecu can be wired to work with the r32 hicas unit.

not on a 32. gotta have the engine going to turn the pump so the hydrolics can move.

hicas controll unit is attached to the underside of the rear parcel shelf.