QWK32

yeah i remember reading on sau somewhere, tutorial i think, about using resistors instead of the sensors to make the climate controll pump out at full power. i also know that if you hold onto the up button for a few seconds it will flash FH full heat. and if you hold down for a few seconds it will flash FC full cold. i think it was FH and FC, cant remember, you'll know when you try it.

no, your timing light is just reading double, most of them do this. you can either half the value your given or double loop the timing loop.

just sounds like normal blow by from your oil breather lines. a small amount is normal, but a lot can be a problem. if you have a lot then you could look at getting an oil catch can.

i'm not sure if it will work out? but if you have access to a friends rb25det (R33) you could try it. set both the engines to TDC. on the other engine/car pop the lid on the cas so you can see the rotor plate. then pop your lid, match it up, then put it back on. might be a bit of a stuff around but it sounds like your fed up with it. also what DEAD32 said, if your continually cranking your car and not sparking, you plugs with fowl up and worst case your sump starts filling with fuel. not nice.

yes one rotation is one cycle of the camshaft. and one rotation of the cas is two rotations of the crank.

if you use a left twist drill instead of spining the stud down to the bottom of the thred it spins it out

thats right

is there much of the easy out sticking out the hole? could try welding a nut to it and using a spanner. or go a get a right angle drill, about 10 drill bits (or if your any good at sharpening them do that instead), and some patience, and drill the EZ-out out. use right twist drills for this and hopefully the if the drill grabs it will loosen the EZ-out and screw it out. to remove broken studs i always use left twist drill bits, when your drilling the stud the drill bit also unscrews the stud at the same time, easy. a couple more ways would be: we sometimes remove broken taps (same steel as an EZ-out) at work with an oxy/acetylene kit, with a really small tip heat the tap till its really hot, then turn the acetylene off, the oxygen blasts the tap out. a costly method would be with a spark eroder. or remove head and get it milled out.

just the turbine side (exhuast side) is ceramic.

no, it cant change ignition map.

sensor type hotwire, sensor NO. 04 04. and sensor cal. 01 01.

here you go. i'm sure mine are the factory ones. they also were in the factory surround.

i've also heard of people complianing about the ATTESSA going funny just by using different brand tyres front and rear.

i always thought it was: FWD is around 10-15%. RWD is around 15-25%. AWD/4WD is around 20-30%. but this also all depends on if its an auto or a manual. going off these figues they are both around 25%

battery is on its way out. most alarms i know have a feature that if the battery is disconnected then reconnected the alarm will go off. when your cranking the car over with a stuffed battery your sucking all the juice from the battery to the stater, so the alarm module looses power for a sec causing it to go off.

i don't know about your numbers but i just got mine outta the cupboard and had a look. on the lens itself: there is a "NISSAN" written in the top corner and in the bottom corner is "Koito" (symbol) and underneath 114-66212R and the other 114-66212l also on all te other parts e.g braket, bulb holder. are the numbers 66212.

yeah its the warning light for the cat temp sensor thats screwed into the side of your cat. did the light just turn on? or where you just wondering? if its just turned on it could be a stuffed cat, or the sensor is just rooted. check out the cat and if its fine i wouldn't worry about it.

hard to tell from that pic. any numbers on them. i've got mine in the garage and can check numbers.

dont know if this will work. i thought you needed the spring tension aswell as the boost pressure coming down the vac line to hold the bov closed under boost?

was the stock one blocked off at all? i can remember a few years ago a mate tried this and the aftermarket bov wouldn't always work. the stock one was opening first. we ended up making a plate and blocked the stock one off. can't see any problem in having two but the question really is why bother? its so easy to block off the stock one.

oh, shit sorry man, other side just got thinking about it, trying to remember to the last time i had it out and which side the coiled line goes to, and the line to the block is actually on the suspension tower side. also quickly just ran out and checked.

whiteline have them.

the side closest the block

turning clockwise is retarding it. no wonder your underpowered. i know on the rb20 at full retard (clockwise), its only about 6 deg BTDC. you need it on 15 deg BTDC. i bet it pops and backfire abit aswell?

they are 370cc