QWK32

there is no mention of the dash clock on the fuse box translation i have. it could be grouped in with something else. is everything else working fine? if so i'd say the clock is stuffed.

oh ok. you should be able to do that.

if you use a rb20det power fc then yes, you will need the resistor pack. wolfs can run either like you said. thats right, stock rb20det injectors are 270cc. 370cc injector on a 6 cylinder works out to be about 260rwkw.

he's just saying to pressurize the pipe once its blocked up. for example use a tyre valve, like the one you pump you car tyres up through. and to make sure that the small vacuum line that comes off the top on the bov is also piped up to the pressure (so the bov will stay shut). then once you pressurize it if the bovs are leaking you will know. keep in mind the most compressors run about 6-7 bar. so use a reg and turn it down a bit. 2-3 bar should be right.

not a very good idea i'd say. for starters you'd have to run a vacuum line to the reg, if at the back of your car thats a long way, not to mention to press drop and delay in a vac line over that distance. keep in mind also that the reg goes on the return line. so it could be possible to get pressure spikes in the lines with the reg so far away from the injectors/rail

i've never had a problem with stalling caused by the atmo bov. i cant even think of a time when its happened.

edit: double post

you should set the base timing back to standard, 15deg. then go from there. generally when you talk about retarding the timing to stop pinging its done on an aftermarket ecu, and doesnt change the base timing at all. what fuel are you using? when was the fuel filter changed. do you have a pod? is it sucking in hot engine air? what spark plugs are you running and at what gap?

i've never seen this. are you sure the throttle signal wire is hooked up? and to the correct wire?

throttle settings: cyl = 6 and arrow pointing diagonally up and right. warning settings set to what level you want a warning to flash at. eg. air flow 95%. everyones dec air settings are slightly different. the manual shows the step to take to set it up. on all the ones i've set up i've never used it. because the neo has quite a few load points (16 if i remember correctly) just leave them at what they are. (or what your calling your rpm settings) throttle hi and low points are up to you. up to what point do you think ou are under low throttle. and at what point do you think your on high throttle. a common one is low at 15% - 20% and high at 55% - 60% but that should be all decided by the tuner. so they can get the best out of it.

the stock bovs are ok but do tend to leak. as many people on here will end up telling you if you are going to get one go for a plumb back bov. its legal. also good if your not after the attention cause they are quite(ish). all comes down to what brand bov you want but 200 sounds ok for a decent one. if you get one with a mounting kit that matches the 33 flange then they are easy to install. two bolts, the plumb back pipe and a vacuum line.

yep. M18 x 1.5mm

power steering and hicas fluid reservoir low fluid warning switch wires. they just go to a float level. they dont need to be connected, everything will still run ok.

yes its a box out job, depending on how bad the wirring its not something to rush out and fix. its usually changed when you change your clutch. do a search on throw out bearing, or thrust bearing (they are the same thing).

he said the car doesn't have one. firstly have you checked for vacuum leaks. hoses that have fallen off or have splits in them. what is the idle like, what rpm is it? up and down? or stable? if its up and down i'd be looking at your cleaning aac valve? there is a tutorial on this. you could also look at you afm. if its starting to play up or it has bad connections it will cause your car to stall.

yeah. id say you didn't hook the lines up to the solinoid correctly. which port did you connect the line to the acuator to and which port is the vacuum/press line hooked up to?

didn't he say here is the proof. i didn't see any proof of his quarter time. or did i miss it?

i've got a genuine series one SSQV and i have the adjustment screw on the back. i thought the new ones didn't have it.

i think you will find a fair bit of info on about this on this site. the few things i know are the heads are different, solid lifters, cam duration different and different lift. cas is different. injectors are different. i think they have different compression ratios. gear box is also different. i cant think of anything else at the moment

standard skyline computer tend to run a bit rich under full throttle. i've seen a 32 with just and exhuast and fmic run into the 10s.

momo +1. thats what i had with no trouble with the hicas.

i know that the gearbox mounting plates are different.

well if your going to bastardize it the a vl one will fit on the gear box end but not the dash end. i've got a stuffed on in my garage, the dash end drive is flogged out though.

yeah thats right. about $100 from nissan for mine about a year ago.

nope.