QWK32

could be anything from the air flow meter, to the CAS, to the igniter pack, coils, or spark plugs. if your saying that your fuel pump is priming up then the ecu may be ok. have you had the car running before it went into storage? checked all fuses? the ones in the car and in the engine bay. there are also two green relays behind where the ecu is located, if they aren't switching you wont get power to your injectors and coils.

emanage is the better option by far. with the gtr injectors your car will start and run as long as you install the resistor pack along with the injectors. if you get the emanage make sure you get a support tool (computer software and cable) aswell. i don't know about the EMU but on my emanage blue when i install new injectors, i can go into the settings and tell the emanage that my old injectors where 270cc (rb20det standard inj) and the new ones are 444cc (gtr inj) it does the correction itself.

does the fuel pump prime at all? if it does then it could be the IGN start signal to the ecu has a faulty connection. if it doesn't, can you easily get your hands on another ecu. if not you could check you ign and injection grounds. unplug the ecu and put a voltage down the line that is supposed to switch the fuel pump on. if it primes up doing this then i would be looking at the ecu.

i think you will find that the pic on the left is were an igniter module can bolt to. and the one on the right is for an engine lifter hook.

<----- i got these off a mate for like 200, so i thought why not. better than some random number letter combo.

blue smoke is oil burning. have you had a compression test done?

if you afc has reset you have probably lost all the setting in it. have a look over this thred towards the bottom: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t188187.html even though it is for a safcII the settings on the neo are the same. Sensor type HW-4. SensCal 01 01. throttle arrow up. don't worry about the hi and low throttle settings yet until you know the thing will run on an unmodified map.

you can pick up a sard adapter for about $35 if you go for the sard

the sensor type , hotwire 04 in and 04 out is the setting for all skylines (unless gtr, its 03 03) so leave that set like that. just looking back at your previous post and you said the afm signal voltage is coming in on signal 2 not signal 1. have you tried using the other afm signal in wire, usually used with twin afm applications, but maybe your wiring was hooked up the wrong way at the factory by mistake, not your fault. you need the afm voltage to be coming in on sensor input 1 for it to work properly. i think you aren't getting a signal sent out to the ecu because it isn't getting one on input 1. lets say this is the case: (dont worry it wont damage your engine) to quickly check this you can change the SensCal. to 02 in and 01 out. this will accept signals on both inputs. if your car runs ok then then you know the input signal wire are the wrong way around. switch your afm input to the other input line and set the SensCal back to 01 in and 01 out. i hope this makes sense.

try http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals.php

initialize is the mater reset. don't do it unless you want to reset the safc to factory settings.

yes its wired correctly you just haven't set it up properly. when you choose you sensor type select Hot Wire as the sensor, the Sens.NO should be 04 04, and in Sens.Cal it should be 01 01. should be all good if you set it to this.

if the pictures on the site are anything to go off its got a rb20det in the engine bay, not a 25.

ther have been a few thred going around about this with prices and details but basically, if you can do it yourself you will save heaps. i did mine myself, removed everything, got the broken studs out and put it all back together and all up it cost me. around $75 for a new exhaust manifold gasket from nissan. about $60-70 for all new studs, nuts and fat washers. abit of coolant and oil that got let out from removing the turbo. and a weekend of work. spacing it out so i didn't get frustrated with it. and dont attempt this without having access to a right angle drill. if you don't think you can handle removing the studs yourself i've heard the mobile thread doctor guy will get them out for you for fairly cheap. i would be paying 1k but i'm fine with doing the work. i think you may find materials would come to a few hunderd after a slight mark-up. $200-$300 and the rest is labour.

brand new one from nissan is about $100 from memory.

0.6 to 0.9 ohms according to the service manual.

lol. or you could jack the back of the car up. grab hold of one of your wheels and turn it. if the other wheel spins the same way its a lsd. if the other wheel doesn't turn or turn the opposite direction its an open center.

hmmm. even though its got the silicon joiners at each end i think it would still be abit too rigid. for the amount of movement needed between the radiator and engine. anybody know of any issues with this kind of setup?

nah that a different probe. the one your taking about is the outside air temp. there is one screwed into the bottom of the radiator, so that when the coolant/engine temp gets to hot it switches on. the only time i've ever heard the fan come on was in the middle of summer and in really heavy city traffic.

it will only switch on when your a/c is on and you go ever a certain engine temp. the temp probe is the one screwed into the bottom of your radiator. you could check to see if the probe is plugged in. alternatively if you have or know anyone that has a consult cable and software you can do an active test where you switch it on through that.

on all the bleed valves i've seen the arrow always points toward the actuator.

it roughly works out that 450cc will do the job so 550cc would be good.

you'll have no trouble sourcing genuine nissan parts. if you can't find them anywhere else just go straight to nissan, they'll be able to get them for sure. i've only got a r32gtst but i have never had any trouble sourcing parts. gtr may be easier for engine parts as you may be able to use parts from a newer model rb26.

safc is fine. the safcII would just give you a few more tuning points. for what the safc is though you probably wont need them, it all depends on your setup. i haven't seen any one yet use the option to run two maps. the knock sensor readout is ok to have but i don't think it is that accurate.

15 deg BTDC