robbieraver

the offset bush needs to be pressed in, not a hard job, a vice will do.(camber pins are for cars with a different suspesion design, in r32's case it is the uper arm that dictates the camber) traction rod, this is one of the top arms in the multi link rear end, one top arm will change camber but when you change one length of one arm (shorter or longer) and leave the others the same length you are changing the path of the movement. there are 4 arms in the rear. to get the path correct you must marry the 2 top arms the same length. ie if you corrected camber by lengthening the arm by 5mm you must lengthen the traction rod buy 5mm also. this also goes for the front arms, but a offset tierod end can cure this problem, just jap and UAS sell them but be sure to get the amount of bump steer measured by some one who knows how to because if you offset the tierods too much you will end up with the same amount or more of bump steer in the opposite direction. hope all this makes sense.

another no on that one, cars will weigh very different, have very different leverage ratios and very different suspension geometry and handling caracteristics, combine all this and you get a mess of spring rate and valving rate. the G4's use a very small stack of shims, small in diameter, that is why they have such high spring rate to compensate for the lack of shim technology. SMALL = BAD FLOW bilstein and koni use very large shims and with years of testing and teasting. NOTE, im not going into the fine details of shims as we would be here for weeks, so if anyone is going to give me greif, im just trying to get my point across.

forgot again, not saying the guys at jj are full of it as they have built some fine race cars, but on this instance they are VERY WRONG.

simply, dont do it, the g4's will be valved to suit a small window if spring rate, plus or minus 2kg in rate, when you go outside this specified rate the shock cannot control the spring. a basic working of a shock is there are shims in the shock body that let oil flow thru at a certain speed, this inturn lets the spring be contolled, this also is matched to the spring rate and that is why you cant put any spring on any shock(very short version)

the problem with alot of W/A machines is there all not the same, eg toe in (+) wheel pointing in, toe out (-) wheel pointing out, going from what you have said its toe in, try (-).5mm toe out per side front, skylines hate toe in (+), makes the steering lasy/no feel and gtr's have aprox 2mm of (+) bump steer. rear, try 1mm of toe in (+) per side, it will keep the rear in check, some people perfer that feel. caster, it will twist the upper arm but not to that extent, im running 5 degrees perside with noltec uper arms and no problem YET.... G4's, go ebay, they are just too hard the wheel will not be incontact with the road properly, and suspesion is there to controll the wheel, bilstein and eibach, the eibachs are only 4kgmm rear and 5 kgmm front, this combo is very well controlled for the track and hills.

almost for got,sway bars will be the best thing you can do. springs and shocks are there to control the wheel movement, sway bars are there to controll the body roll.

i hate to say it but dump the g4's and get something else to start with. the spring rate and valving rate is WAY too harsh,the group buy for 32 gtr's with eibach springs is as about as goodas its gets with out spending big $$$$$$$, then raise the car 25mm front and 25mm rear. 2mm toe, is that in or out. front camber, not enough, 2.30neg, offset bushes or arms required. rear camber, too much back it off to 1.30 neg to flattern the tyre out for grip, you may need arms or offset bushes. rear toe, 3.3 toe in or out. caster, as much as you can get. 5-8 degrees would be nice.

go see john at UAS (unique auto sports) he is a gold mine for info and help, he will be able to set it up for you. there in sydney but it will be well worth the drive. unique auto sports (02) 9620 9000 Unit 1/20 Tucks Rd Seven Hills NSW Australia 2147 uas.com.au

i know i know, but i had to find out for myself. its one thing the read how to set it up but i wanted to learn for myself in the real world, all it cost was my time.. cheers.

nothing beats the sound of an rb26.....

hmmm maybe

changed it today, much better, but toe out i didnt think that would work, but it dose, especialy the 5mm higher in the rear.

this read out of settings was done from pedders? yes. regardless of where it was done NO , it is not good. what is your intended use of the car and what tyres are you using, sway bars, coilovers etc etc etc...... im from TRUTRACK SUSPESION, give us a call on 9326 5392 and we will get it sorted out properly. trutrack.com.au

may be there isnt a problem with booster,if the pedal goes hard then it sounds like pad choice? if it only happens under extreme condtitions then the pad could either be not up to temp, say after a longish straight (200 km) on the climb and you havnt braked for a bit.. just throwing ideas out there.

il take them...... you have pm

i think you should all harden the fark up, RE55 with rb26 = lots of fun. tram lining/harsh ride/noisy MAN UP.......

yes and no, what car is it for because leverage ratios can be very different, and the valving can be very harsh regardless of spring rate. but 5/4 is just fine......

angry street set up, i live near the reefton/lake mountain roads, lots and lots of bends. i know negative 3 degrees is a lot for the street but i like a sharp handling car with minimul understeer.

as slouch said if you buy anywhere other than fulcrum or a dealer in OZ you will be getting jap spec, hard as hell spring rate and bone shattering valving to suit those rates. the ss from fulcrum are revalved and re-sprung in japan to suit our crappy roads. if you want quality suspension go the group buy, you cant beat bilstein/eibach combination.

do you mean the lower part of the shock that bolts in to the stub. well start from a lightly traped spring using the spring seat, then adjust the height of the car from the stub adjustment. that is the best place to adjust the cars height from, adjusting it from the spring seat will preload the spring more or less. this is he very short version , once you give it a go its very easy.

saturday night to many big glasses of the the good stuff, but you know what i ment.

trutrack suspension, nth melbourne. i work there.....

hey all, over the past few months ive been fiddling with my suspension set up. (im a compulsive fiddler), im work in the trade(mecanical) so do you blame me AND i live near some great roads. ive changed, ride height - started at front 355mm, rear 345mm to 350mm front, 340mm rear (centre to top guard) sway bar settings - front full hard them full soft then medium now full soft, rear medium now hard alignment - played with toe out 1mm front to 0 toe and 2.30 neg front camber to 3.00 neg front camber, rear at 1.30neg and 1m toe in per side. rims - different offsets, from 22 to 12 my final set up has been known to me for some time thanks to so much imput from here but i just wanted to find out for myself, finnaly it drives like a gtr should, ride height- front 350mm rear 340mm sway bar- front full soft, rear full hard, 3 hole type alignment- front 3 deg neg camber, 5 degree caster, 1mm toe out, rear 1.30 deg neg camber, 1mm toe in per side rims- 12 offset. tyres allways the same re55. just wanted to share my enjoyment and my compusive fiddling, some changes have been good and some have been down right crap.

also have bonnet liner for r32, ok condiotion as expected it gets a bit of heat - $50 pics of door trims.

steering wheel sold to chalon... happy turning with that wheel