R34GTFOUR

Few interested parties - but no one has come up with the cash. I'll include postage to anywhere in Australia for $260!

Deposit Taken - Sold pending pick up

Feel free to send me a msg - 0417948746 If someone else jumps in before then I will give you an opportunity to put a deposit down to lock it in if you want.

You don't need an aftermarket plenum and it will fit the standard R34 Neo plenum - the rail is a direct bolt in (you just need to run a new fuel pressure regulator though - but that is the same for any aftermarket rail) If the aftermarket plenum is to suit an R34 set-up (i.e. I think the Plazaman plenums offer a R34 set-up) then it will also fit. It won't fit any R33 style plenums as the mounting position changed in the R34.

Happy to post to anywhere in Australia

Happy to post to anywhere in Australia

Bump - Happy to post anywhere in Australia

Hi everyone, As per the title, I have a genuine HKS Fuel Rail which suits the R34 GTT manifold. The rail comes in the original box with all the required bolts, spacers, washers, fittings etc to bolt it on. It is BRAND NEW and has never been used. The going price on Nengun was $500 plus postage - however they are now discontinued and you can buy them anymore! The rail looks identical to the below - however it is in a box Chasing $260 firm PM if interested Located in Ballajura (WA) Steve

Hi Everyone, I'm going an aftermarket fuel rail so I no longer need this regulator. Genuine Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator which is universial and can be made to suit any rail - Part No: 22670-RR710 Looks Like: I also have a brand new nismo connector/adaptor which makes it a drop in application for most Nissan rails. The Part Number is 22672-RR710 and the manual says it will make the regulator fit all skyline (GTSTs, GTRs etc) and SR20s fuel rails. Great for those that are running aftermarket injectors in the stock rail or for those who want to bump up the rail pressure to get more out of their stock injectors. The Regulator cost me $200+ post by itself. I'll let both the regulator and connector go for $180 Located in Ballajura (WA) PM if interested Steve

Hi everyone, I have a brand new, in the box, Trust extension kit for an RB26 (suits all RB26 sumps). It the genuine kit and comes with the extension, baffle and new oil pick up - the whole lot ready to go. NOTE: The extension needs to be welded to the standard RB26 sump - it's not a bolt on. Looks like this: Price: $500 Located in Ballajura (WA) PM if interested Cheers Steve

Thats interesting.. never thought that low oil would cause that problem? It still selects all gears fine and isnt making any odd noises so I think the oil level is fine but I will check this weekend. Cheers

Hi everyone, I was hoping this is a common problem and someone can shead some light on it for me. Quick Background: The car is actually a 180SX with an SR20DET with the stock 5 speed manual, however they share the same gearbox internals as a N/A Skyline so I thought it was worth a shot here. The car has never had an issue before and is actually my missus's car that I've kinda broken haha. I thought it would be a good idea to take it down the drags to see what time it would do and on the return trip back home it wouldn't hold 5th gear on the freeway - just great. It didn't have the issue prior to the drags so I'd say I've damaged something down the strip and now I'm in the dog house.. The gearbox still selects ALL gears perfectly fine, no crunching etc, and its only 5th gear the pops out. If I select 5th and place a small amount of pressure to hold it in, it will hold the gear fine. If I don't hold it, then after about 5-10 seconds it just slides out and free-revs. The car has 270rwhp so I only got into 4th gear down the strip - never hit 5th so I don't know why 5th got damaged. I'm leaning towards a selector fork issue (possibly bent?) but I've never had this issue before. I was going to put a 2nd hand gearbox in it and be done with it, but I thought if I could get away with something cheaper, i.e. like a new fork, then it maybe worthwhile. But if I have to go to the extent of replacing syncros etc then I won't bother with it. Any ideas on what caused the damage and what the fix is? Cheers for your help! Steve

Hi everyone, I'm chasing a torque plate for an Rb25/Rb30 which I was hoping I could borrow in exchange for hugs/kisses/beer etc If anyone has one, or knows of someone with one, it would be greatly appreciated. NOTE: the builder I want to go through currently doesn't have one, so going to another workshop for the build isn't my preference. Cheers Steve

Theres are a few differences, with the head chamber being smaller as mentioned above.. I have my head neo cc'd and each chamber came in at 53ccs, so if you used the "normal" pistons in a rb25/30 then the comp ratio would go through the roof. I've purchased ACL RB30ET pistons with the -4.5cc dish in the piston which is just an off the shelf item. Based on my calc, with a bore of 86.5mm, 1.1m headgasket, 0 deck height (i.e. shave to block by 20thou) you get a comp ratio of 8.8:1 - which is pretty spot on in my books. Also the VCT feed is definitely different and you have to use the drill/tap method for the oil feed at the front of the head for it to work again. Just make sure you have it grub screwed/welded to block it off as mentioned above. Other than those two, everthing else should bolt straight up as a normal rb25 head:)

^^ +1 As above, unless the diaphragm is torn, it should seal perfectly. I would just check that when you are tighening the bolts that the diagphragm isn't being pinched (if nothing is torn).

Any development on this?

Neo and non-neo are differnt designs, however the actual bolt pattern on the head is identical. I.e. you can fit the same greddy plenum on a r33 and r34 rb25.

Can you please find out if your supplier is willing to post to perth? If so, how much they would want?

Keen on a price for just the front seats

I would be very interseted in the above^^ I was originally going to fibreglass the lower cover into shape so it mated with top cover - however it would a pain in the ass..

both of your testicles

Yes it will "bolt up" to the mounts/gearbox perfectly but it wount be "plug and play" with the ecu and sensors The neo runs top feed injectors, different manifold setup and different VCT. If you've got the complete neo harness and ecu it wont be so bad. If you wanted to run the R33 ecu and harness, I would pull the inlet manifold off and switch it with the R33 and run all the sensors off the r33. The neo runs smaller ports than the r33 so the manifold wont be as "port matched", but it wont that bad because the manfold ports are larger than the head ports, if it was the other way around it would be a different story.

Or it could just have clapped out oil rings. Compression rings might still be ok hence the compression being fine, but if the oil rings are fingered it will blow smoke like a chimney. Blue generally = rings.

not well at all unless you want to rev it to 10-11k rpm, thats a very large turbo for a small displacement engine. A garrett T04Z would be a better choice, it still wouldnt be "responsive" but no set-up will be if you want that much power out of a 2.5L engine.