R34GTFOUR

LOL @ i dont know what it is but i know i need it! Item 1 is your front driver side CV input shaft. The "spine" end goes onto the diff and is held with a circlip as mentioned above. The other end is meant to have a cv boot over the top where the CV joint and shaft goes to, then the shaft obviously goes to your driver front wheel. The circlip is an absolute prick to get off and your need to lever the shaft out of the diff, which it looks like you did but broke the little alloy plate on the end... So answers: The spine slides into the diff No its not meant to slide freely, the circlip holds it in place. Once in place it wont come out without alot of swear words. Yes the plates should be interchangeable (99% of the awd stuff is the same between, gtr, gts4, gtfour etc), just dont break the one on the rb25neo.. Also get new CV boots while you are there. The tear with age and they are a prick to change.

Depends on how much you want to spend. Cheap option, go to any exhaust shop and get them to make up an intake pipe from some mild steel, get it powdercoated (or chrome dipped if you want bling, more expensive though) to stop rust and make it look smick, then pop a pod on the end of the pipe. Get them to weld on a few nipples as per factory lines and there you are. Should be cheap, ie $100-$150 all up. Expensive option, go to the same shop and get the same thing made up in stainless steel and get it highly polished for the bling factor. Cheapest option, If you are handy with a welder, go nuts. Dont forget to make a up a nice cold air box, otherwise you'll probably go backwards hp wise. Any exhaust shop will be able to make it for you, get mandral bends so it doesn't look like poo. Depending on how many bends you need, it should be cheap. DON'T LET THEM BEND YOU OVER!

There isnt a difference in the engines, a rb25det from a stagea or skyline. is the same thing. So you're existing harness and ecu should do the trick, no need to source anything from the stagea. How does it drive off boost? Does it idle fine? Any error codes? Beinge the magical 3000rpm mark i would check common problem areas first. Ie spark plugs, coils, afm, boost leak, fuel pump/filter...

I was a little bored and it was a nice day so i went for a drive and brought my crappy samsung camera with me..

This thread DELIVERS!!

I'd say the bloke i was dealing through is just a slacker, he would of gone off the ARP catalog and seen it wasnt listed then given up.. I'll give another mob a go next week. Cheers

Can any else confirm that part number? I tried to order it through a supplier and they said the part number wasnt valid. Im not sure if they were being slack or if the number is wrong. Cheers

I vote on driver ability. Who every knows how to drive will win. On the chance that both drivers are fully sik, skiz will take the cake.

GTS4 will have the same tunnel as a gtr, so for "perfect" fitment you would need gtr style mats. As mentioned earlier they don't have the template for gtr mats so you would need to get GTS-T mats and use them instead. The wouldnt be a huge difference between the gtr and gtst mats

Also is there any chance that head is a rb20 neo head? Still find it hard to believe that the neo's are different between na and turbo, nissan is normally lazy and have the same parts for everything

I wonder if the N/A neo head can be extensively ported to the turbo spec? ie if they are the same casting, one with smaller ports. Only ask because i have a na neo head that i was going to use but i didnt expect that the ports would be different. I thought nissan kept everything the bloody same, at least they did with the r33 heads..

Thanks Alf, really appreciate it. I'd almost given up.

clutch it

BI = 2, so bi turbo = twin turbo, they both mean the same thing (forget parallel and sequential) I know of a family friend who has one, but he's over 50. Theres a bloke that went to my uni who owns one awell, he'd be in the 25-30 bracket. Won lotto...

Does anyone know the ARP part number for RB30 Main Studs? I've searched bloody everywhere and can't find it, its not in their catalog either..

Same as a normal rb25. You can also use the RB26 pump if you wish, but just stick the the genuine rb25 pump If you're short on cash, a rb30 pump also fits and they are much easier to get (ie coventrys or repco) and much cheaper. One bolt hole doesnt line up with the rb30 pump, but with a bit of goop she's apples.

afm or popped/broken intake pipe that would be the first area i would check

When my brothers r33 was still na, it was a close run to 120ish against my r34. Mine is awd so its abit heavier but its not too bad for a comparison. Although if we were going 60kmhr and we both went back to 2nd, he would kill me, especially peaking 3rd. The r34 just ran out of puff after 5400rpm and his still pulled all the way to limiter, both simular mods. Although his was a freek na (used to crack 14.6's down the strip) Torque difference is huge, in favour of the r34. We actually tested it once, 2000rpm 4th gear and stomped on it. The 34 absolutely ate him all the way to 5000rpm, but thats not a big suprise because the 34 has lower duration cams and higher lift compared to the r33, so lower end torque is too expected. For everything else, interior, exterior etc i prefer the r34, but i am bias

Thanks for the update, I'm in desperate need of new mats, my current ones say Pulsar on them haha....

I think you may be getting it mixed up with something else. A r34 gtfour is a na awd, it runs the same awd attessa system as the r33 gtr. It's the container that holds the fluid that "engages" the clutchpacks in the awd transfer case that sends power to the front wheels. If you have it, your car is awd or it was at some stage.

As oil increases in temperature the viscosity decreases (ie the oil becomes "thinner") and the oil pressure drops. You will have MORE pressure when the car is cold because the oil is thicker. When mine is cold, it reads 4 at idle and maxes it when reved past 2k. When it is warm, it sits around 3 at idle andgoes to about 5 in the higher rpm. If you're worried, get a mechanical gauge and bolt it on under the hood, give the car a quick rev and see what it says. Before anything, check the oil level.

Depends what you're after. If you want little 16-17yr old girls throwing their g-strings at you get some good quality rims (not china) with a nice stereo, very few girls know anything mechanical and under the bonnet doesn't impress them. There's not much to do aesthically, the r34 looks nice in stock form imo, just needs to be dropped with some good wheels. If you want the car to be more enjoyable to drive, mick2nv hit the nail on the head, get the hard turning quicker (ie suspension/tyres) and stopping harder (brakes/tyres). I wouldn't go the engine mod path yet, the bang for buck just isn't there. Get a good catback so it sounds nice but thats as far as i would go with it. Much better off to wait till the p's are over then bolting a turbo on the side and since you would have the suspension/brakes sorted it should be a good package. Either way, just dont go out and bolt on 20in china wheels, dropped with cut springs and "ice it" with a $99 pioneer 12inch sub running off a boss audio amp with stock nissan speakers.

They made the R34 with a rb20de but as iseekool said they fell under the minimum power to weight ratio for compliance. Ie they can be imported into the country but shouldnt be able to pass compliance. If yours definitely is a rb20 then thats very strange. Pop your head under the hood and see what the nissan plate says

do you own a gtfour? I have the container in my boot and its for the attessa system. Nothing brake related in the boot, the only place for brake fluid is on the master cylinder under the bonnet

Payment and email sent. Cheers