R34GTFOUR

Just to outline the options: To use the rb26 head on the neo for the plenum, ITB's and wow factor you will need to strip the block, re-hone with new pistons from a non-neo engine (might as well go forged), while you're there you would replace all the bearings etc, new head gasket, new turbo set up (since the rb26 wont match your current exhaust manifold/turbo setup), thats a lot of effort especially for an head thats coming of a broken engine, for all you know the head might be damged aswell. Option 2: Get a greddy manifold if you want a forward facing manifold (they fit from the r33 fine, the fuel rail just needs a few spacers), use a q45 throttle body and if you want the wow factor get the gtr covers and install them, much cheaper, easy and simular gains. The neo head is a good bit of gear, has solid lifters like the gtr head and with the change you'll be saving from not putting pistons in the engine you could get a set of drop in tomie pon cams... The rb26 head isnt the best choice for a neo, if it was a non-neo rb25 it would be a different story but i wouldnt go that path even if you got the complete engine stupidly cheap. If the rb26 was too cheap to pass up, buy it, strip it, dont spend a cent on the neo engine, rebuild the rb26 and do a comversion...

yeah i know, most places say no more than 15% variance between each pot, i dont like more than 5% myself but meh... but in saying that 125psi is very low for a rb25, i've done a far few compression tests on skiz's and the lowest i've seen on a "healthy" running motor is 140psi. If it was mine i would just keep a close eye on it. CR and compression tests arent directly linked, you can have a 7.0:1 CR engine still pump out 160psi of compression, a compression test is purely how the pistons/ring/valves are sealing. Not saying its a bad idea, but like i said the title did mention reliability so smashing a larger turbo on a stock tired engine might not work out the best for that part

how many km's do you think the engine has seen? a compression test of only 125psi is getting on the low side, i would guess the engine is getting tired so i would be careful, especially if you arent 100% on its history. Just a thought since you want it as reliable as possible

Just wind up all your windows so you can hear just the engine as much as possible then load it up in lower rpms and rev it out like you're doing, 5th is abit overkill, 2nd or 3rd should be fine since its n/a and wont rev out too quick haha. If you are really worried go to any performance place and ask them to do a dyno power reading, and while they're doing the run stick your head in the engine bay and listen out for it. Probabaly cost you $100 for the run

lol carby experts, bloody true Just tell them its running a holley double pumper, they'll love you

All depends on the power your putting out and what you plan to push out in the future (if you are going to modify) and ofcourse the $$$ you want to spend. You can spend as little as a few hundred to over a couple of thousand. You can get cheaper cluches to hold the power, but dont expect them to be anywhere as nice to drive as the more expensive ones. You get what you pay for. My brother has a nismo coppermix twin plate in his gtr, its really nice, but thats worth more than 2k. I'm going to be using a Exedy Hyper Metal twin plate, it should hold the power i want but i'm expecting it to be quite grippy. Also being a gtt it uses a PULL type clutch, so when you're shopping around its the same clutch that the r32 (late model) , r33 and r34 GTR's use

true but in oz its much easier to find a vl then a r31

stock they run about 15degress BTDC base timing, mines at around 20 and no pinging and thats even running vortex 95 when im lazy... my brothers on the other hand has maxed his out, i havent stuck a timing gauge on it but i would assume it has atleast 25degrees of base timing. Still no pinging on that either. It depends on your climate and fuel quality.

lol goodwork

you'll need to run a safc at a minimum so the car will actually run with a z32, then a tune would be a good idea. If you can pick up a gtst afm it will work fine, i've interchanged na and turbo afm's a few times between the r33 skylines and never had a problem

thats the most common place in aus to get one, get a late model vl and there should be a series 2 block in there somewhere

the series 2 na block will be fine the only reason people like the series 2 na blocks is that they have the coolant feed and oil feed and return already pre-drilled and tapped ready to go for the turbo. It just one less thing to worry about.

r34 gt na brakes are 2pot fronts, 1 pot rear, the same as na r33 brakes. The r32 gtr, r33 gtst calipers/rotors will bolt straight up, no mods are required (which are 4pot front, 2 pot rear) The caliper bolt size difference only applies to the turbo model r34's, the na's still run the smaller 12mm bolt which is the same as the r32 gtr and r33 gtst so these will bolt straight on. So to answer your question, yep they will bolt on

Just a side note on the brakes, i've got stock r34 na brakes on mine and i'm very impressed how it pulls up. I can get abs kicking in quite easily at 110km/hr, so on the street its more than enough. Even with the pads in it, it takes some very spirited driving it get them "fading". I actually think it pulls up harder and faster than my brother r32 gtr (std brakes aswell). With that being said, once it gets the new engine i've new rotors, calipers, pads and lines for it

or just get a powerfc, much easier

drop 87mm pistons in there and you have a rb31:D

google.com.au or spoolup, the person that answered in this thread has one on his website which is in his signature. By the sounds of things, if the head has been that badly warped it would be cheaper and easier to just get another head. Goodluck with it

any decent cv joint place will be able to fix/rebuild the joints, if the boots are just cracked they will be able to match some up for you.

if it was me, i would just get one of those engine CR calulators on the net and spend an hour punching in numbers, until you get a combo that comes up with a good CR, somewhere around the 8.2-9.0 mark. When you say stock bottom end, std pistons/rods or rebuilt? stock 86mm bore? I'm not sure what the stock hg thickness is, but you'll need to work that out, im sure someone here will tell you. I would just take off as little as possible from the head, just untill its level, then definately cc the head so you know how much to take off the block to get your target CR. You have much more to work with, with the block since the stock pistons sit below the top of the bore, so if any decent shaving is to be done i would be looking there, not the head. So basically, if you want to keep this head, get it sorted with the lest possible taken off, find out how many cc's there are in each chamber, determine the hg thickness, then get on the calculator and work out how much you need to deck the block to get you CR, you might even zero deck the block..

if this hasnt died, i'll be keen

i've done it on a few rb25de's and its a nice little improvement. For something that cost nothing but 5mins of your time its great Just loosen the 3 10mm bolts holding the cas untill you can turn it. and turn it ANTI-CLOCKWISE, you'll notice the idle will jump up a few rpm. You dont need to take the bolts all the way out. If the rpm drops you are going the wrong way, ie dropping timing. If the idle is sitting too high afterwards, just adjust the idle screw a few turns, but you might not even need to touch the idle. Mine is probably 2mm from being "maxed" out, since theres only so far you can turn it. My brothers on the other hand is fully clocked across haha... Take it for a spin afterwards and listen out if it pings, if you can hear it pinging drop it back a notch and try again. The best time to check for ping is during the day when its warmer and under full load (ie 1500rpm in 2nd then floor it). You should be running 98 ron fuel normally, but if your arent, you definately should once you've increased the timing, otherwise you'll knock the engine to death. If you dont know what ping is or what it sounds like, get someone that does to go for a drive with you. Like i said its free hp and you should notice an increase in fuel economy aswell, win win. The rb25's dont have variable valve timing, but they do have variable cam timing, but bumping the ignition timing wont effect anything to do with it.

sounds good

you wouldnt have damaged the actuator, the only thing that can let go when there is too much boost is the stock ceramic exhaust wheel, they tend to break... But if the turbo is spooling up fine and holding boost without making funny noises it should be ok. Are you sure the loss of power isnt just in your head? If you set the gain to 16 and drove around for a while then turned it back to 12 its going to feel slower, obviously cause you were use to it being quick.

better late than never... lol i had to nick down to the ATM so i thought i would post up a quick video. Its not much but you get the idea of what it sounds like. This is only a temp setup, its literally held on by cable ties... http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=75JKQQAHQeM

if vct is there it might as well be used, especailly for people like my bro that only want a mild setup. I didnt know that they would break under big boost, might have a look into that. I know a few boat builders so i might get one of those alloy afm's made up, looks very trick