R34GTFOUR

i was talking about valve springs, not suspension coil springs

Most of the people doing this will be r33 owners with power fc's since there is no djetro version to run a map sensor. You can use the gtr djetro but then you need another unit to control vct etc. The main thing im worried about is it popping off, being plastic you cant really wrentch the crap out of them with t-clamps since they'll break. Oh well, i'll wait till my bros gets done

true but that can be fixed by a catch can breathing to atmo, as long as its a decent baffled catch can...

im also keen to know more about this. I know of one bloke with 410ish rwhp on a rb25 with a z32 inside the cooler piping, he hasnt reported bad things yet though. My understanding is that if you just put it in the piping without getting it tuned to suit you'll have problems. My brother just put a z32 on the hotside of the piping in his r33 with a gt3076r, should be on the dyno in 2 weeks so i'll let you know how it goes. Definately cleans up the engine bay, and you can have a nice 4inch s/s intake that looks very neat.

i was going to do this swap, but decided to go the rb30 awd path with my r34. Pretty much a straight forward swap, with only a few minor changes. What does your rolling chasis have? rear diff? engine? was it orginally manual or auto? if its manual do you have all the clutch gear (slave cylinder etc)? The main point is making sure that you have the correct diff ratios front and rear. Most stageas are auto, so if your gtfour is manual and you still have the front diff, take the stageas rb25 diff/sump off and use the gtfour's. Everything else is pretty much plug n play Just on a side note the r34gtfour uses the same box as a gtr (but its uses a push type clutch, like the early r32's) but the rear diff is the same as a na r33/r34. This pretty much means if you are planning on pushing it hard, i wouldnt expect the axles/diff to hold up. The gtr rear diff is a great upgrade, but you'll need the gtr half shafts aswell. Then if you use the gtr rear diff you'll need the gtr's front diff aswell (since they have different ratios to the gtfour). If you dont have a gearbox, the gtr box will bolt up, but just be careful which one you get (push or pull type). Other than that, it should be a relatively quick, cheap and fun awd r34

tooo many farking warriors me thinks... Bloody long read, but was a good one at that. Even though it was 2yrs ago, congrats Jason on having more balls then most. Its funny how people continually pick on the little things just to "stir the pot", meanwhile missing the bigger picture.

the shape of the exhaust is identical, the r33 system might be the smallest of amounts longer (which makes sence because the r34s are shorter than r33s). The rubber mount locations are a little different, i was about an inch away from being able to use the stock mounts. I did a dodge and used cable ties as my friends to help "support" the mounts haha, its only staying on for a month or so until my new engine goes in, it was more for a laugh than anything My neighbour is a real pain in the ass, so when i get a spare sec i'll give it a rev and upload it. Maybe tonight, or tomoz.

Becareful with your selection though, i've heard some terrible rb25de's that have that really annoying rasp sound in the mid range. Makes it sound like a dirty fart. I've been driving around with the stock exhaust for a while, but i had a spare catback system from my brothers r33 gts which sounded really nice so i thought i would stick it on my r34. Suprise suprise it sounded the same on my car, really clean sounding with no rasp, picked up a bit of power in the top end too. The cat back is just a custom system that can be made up at any good exhaust shop, its 2 1/2 inch with one redback resonator and one s/s cannon. I would recommend putting a resonator in there, it helps with the raspy sound that some na's get. If i have time i'll try and post up a youtube vid of it.

sorry to hear, its amazing how something simple can cause big problems... even though they are stupidly priced, especially with the exchange rates, its hard to go past a jun pump or tomie if you have the money. Its expensive, but good insurance.

i would of thought the gtt and gt are the same radiator, mine (na r34) looks the same as a mates gtt but i havent stared at them side by side. The only thing that differs is if its auto or manual, the autos have the transmission fluid go throught the radiator The gtr on the other hand i wouldnt know.

if using the rb25 harness what about the extra afm from the r26? i would just replace the neo harness with the rb26's Either way you will be do some re-wiring, so might as well use the rb26 to start off with.

piggy backs are just a bandaid to the problem. I would get a powerfc and be done with it, they can be had for the 1000-1200mark now days 2nd hand. Sell the neo for what you got it for and put it towards the FC If its a miss or surge then dont worry about coilpacks because the spark isnt being blown out. Blown out spark is a very different feeling, its almost like a "fluffy surge" haha, doesnt make much sence but its hard to explain. My brother use to have a series 1.5 r33, and it had to same problem as you. We went for cheapest solution to most expensive, new spark plugs, gapped down, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new splitfire coil packs, none fixed the problem of the "surge" through out the rev range, and it would even violantly "splutter". He bit the bullet and got a powerfc and boooom, instant fix. Changed the whole car, best engine mod done to date. Just something to think about

and the gtr will be lighter again when said owners get so pissed they decide to run no bonnet wat so ever

^^^exactly, as long as you're not running bigger injectors just reset it and it'll be fine. If you're running bigger injectors/afm the stock ecu wont be any good to you anyway, so hit that reset button

to be different, run both...

what happens when you want 400-450rwkw's on one afm?

the r34 in na form did come out with a GT-V model which is exactly the same but with the turbo brakes/suspension so maybe thats where the data is getting mixed up. The GT-V isnt as common, so it would be safe to say most na r34's run the smaller r33 gts brakes (like mine does, and mines a coupe btw ) I cant remember the part number for the pads (i only stuck cheap shit because im upgrading in a month or so) but they were curved in shape, not square

so thats approx 6 people? come on 2 moooorreeee....

wooot woot

just replaced the pads in my r34 na, they are the same as the r33 gts (not gtst or r34 gtt)

offset has nothing to do with rolling diameter so it wont affect anything with the axles/diff. Just one side will stick out further than the other, but with only 5mm difference you'd be picky to see it

negative haha, at least i hope it wasnt my car...

I have a na r33 and na r34 outside, the brakes are identical

sorry i should of made it clearer haha, the na r34 rotors are the exact same as the r33 gts stuff, but they are drilled to suit the 5 stud hub. You can get blank rotors and get them drilled to suit. R33 gtst stuff wont bolt onto the stock r34na caliper because as you said the gtst stuff is bigger. But what i mentioned before is if you get all the gtst stuff (rotors, pads, calipers) it is a direct bolt on upgrade. Thats what im doing to mine. So to answer your questions abit clear, if you want to keep your stock na calipers but want to get new brake pads and rotors you need to buy r33 gts pads and rotors (but have them drilled to 5 stud)

*waits for a girl to say the same thing*