partyboy73

I am curious to find out if anyone knows what the benefits are of fitting adjustable cam gears to an RB20DET.. I have heard you can dial them in to get more power/economy.. is this correct?

If the drivers window is the problem then its an easy soldering job on the relay box, most likely, and there is a thread on it in the DIY section. With the other windows only working from the master control, its just the contacts in the individual switches and is as easy as pulling them out, then carefully apart, and just clean up the contacts with some fine sandpaper. Mine were dirty as and now no probs, just be careful not to lose any of the little parts and take note of how it was together for reassembly.

Do these have a ceramic exhaust wheel and what mods did you need to do to make it fit? same dump pipe?

All of the above works but if you want it looking really wicked then let whatever you have used fully dry, then get yourself one of those microfibre dust cloths (got mine in a $2 shop for... $2 ) It also works really wicked on your paint work, makes it come up as if you had it cut and polished, everything needs to be completely dry to do it properly. I have one for my windows, one for the paint work and one for the mags

Not sure how hot the return line would get so I would go back to what I said before and not put it on anything that gets hotter than your cross over pipe or anything that it goes near to... since I have personally only done this on my cross over pipe, then that is all I can go by really... the tar does get soft tho, and you can move it about with your hand when it is, but it would'nt just fall off or start dripping... I'd suggest putting a small piece on and checking it after a good session to guage whether its the right thing to use (3mtr length goes for about $9, 10mtr for about $20, thats for the 48mm wide stuff)

I have put this on my cross over pipe since reading this thread and am still thinking of doing my intercooler pipes but a bit hesitant cos it can be a real prick to get off if you need to (also takes lots of care and patience to make it look decent, but will still have marks and wrinkles in it). If it peels off in one piece its easy but I dont see that happening easy after weeks and months because I tried getting a bit off after only minutes and it was a pain (especially if you dont want to scratch your piping. Turps helps lots) Works a treat but when its heated it gets soft so I would not put it on anything that gets too hot.. Ie: As hot as your cross over pipe would get if you did'nt wrap it first. Oil lines would be a bad idea as well as anything that radiates heat from what is going thru it (cross over pipe heats up but not from what is running thru it) I will be putting this on the outside of my cold air box to keep the heat at bay... so to speak

If you look up to and3 3's post he has the link for the pdf file on this which will give you the colours in english. As for the right wires to splice them into, you need to look at the diagram of the plugs and you will see it has a dark patch indicating the plugs clip, all you do is look at the plug, then the picture, and count how many wiring spaces there are from the clip to the end of the plug.. Ie: oooo####oo The plug is not symetrical so you can work out which way you are meant to be looking at it in comparison to the diagram (cant remember which way at the moment ) then you just need to follow the direction of the wires in the diagram Ie: If it shows an arrow going to a box then the arrow is a male connector you put on and the box is its female friend and vise versa. Not 100% sure but I recon the direction that its wired would make a difference. Hope this is understandable and helps you out

I have read in a thread that you can fill the box with kero, then start the car and without the clutch you push the gearstick into each gear as if you were changing gears but not so hard. Apparently that allows the synchro's to open up and cleans them, then drain it out and fill with oil.... Thinking of this as it sounds about right but not 100% sure... also cant get the drain plug out!!

My problem is that I cant seem to get it into hicas mode to make the rack move so I can put the second shim in... still thinking of just letting the pressure out of the rack with what looks like a bleed valve on the rack itself, then moving it by hand... not 100% sure but wont be doing it for a while yet (no time)

Looks like you got it sorted mate, nice one! Only critisism I have is with all the money you are throwing at the car why go with an X-Force hiflow cat? they're not all that great and for a few hundred more you could have one that flows twice as good... my 2.2 cents (GST incl.)

Would anyone know the result if I were to get a R33 series 2 turbs, replace the ceramic wheel with steel, then put it on my RB20...? Would the extra lag with the steel wheel be that noticable? Worth doing?

SOLD

Item: Go Fast Bits Stealth Blow Off Valve Age: ? Condition: Good Price: $230 delivered O.N.O To Fit: (What car) R32 & R33 Location: Adelaide Contact: post here or PM Comments: Its black and can be made plumb back or vent at the twist of the wrist. Selling due to being a defect in SA

Would you know the part numbers for the door window seals that are connected to the interior door cards on a R32 four door by any chance? mine are more wrinkled than my gran!

Touche` ..unfortunately I'm after a series 2 otherwise I would snatch up this bargain. Good luck with the sale dude

Exhaust wheels are all ceramic as standard but some series 2 had plastic COMPRESSOR wheels.

Is it series 1 or 2? I'm told series 2 has plastic compressor wheel... Also do you know the approx. km's?

Anyone got an idea of the torque settings for the turbo to dump pipe bolts/nuts on a std RB20DET? Also the torque for the cat bolts would be a great help (putting on S/S split pipe and highflow cat)

I would lean towards no.. Since thats the case I would get a wheel alignment and balance done like the others suggested or even get a suspension place to have a look first to see if theres anything they can pick up on... just go to one you can trust!

As I'm sporting too much negative camber how much positive camber would I be able to put on with these?

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the castor arm bushes were shagged... got some adjustable rose jointed ones and no more shakes plus more direct steering

Cheers for the info mate but just a few questions... Does it matter which terminal you disconnect? Also moving the CAS back to centre... do I need to disconnect this and what exactly will this do? Will I need to adjust anything like idle? Cheers

I have read many topics on this and was wondering if anyone knows 100% how this is done properly... I'm about to replace a few things (O2 sensor, front/dump pipe, clean AFM, clean Air filter etc) and got the idea that resetting the ECU was the done thing. I have researched and found a few variations such as: "disconnect neg. battery terminal, pump the brake several times then reconnect terminal" or "disconnect pos. terminal hold down brake for 20 mins. wait an hour or so then reconnect, let car idle for 20 mins. then drive for 30-45 mins" or theres "disconnect neg. terminal pump brake for 2-3 mins. then leave for 24 hrs before reconnecting and driving"... Does anyone know for sure which of these is right if any or what the right procedure is?

No... +1.5.. I have -2.5 all round and as nice as she handles the cost of the tyres will kill me.. Are these able to put positive camber on and if so how much?

Compared to standard arms how much could you affect the camber? Looking to put +1.5 degrees all round... low is nice but the tyres...