OzLeroy

Sorry guys i'm crap and have not entered for this Sunday mainly coz i'm poor at the moment - wisdom teeth suck, having them removed sucks even more and the bill to have them removed just tops it off. I even bought a fire extinguisher and new QFM brake pads! They'll be useful next time. However i'll almost certainly be there to watch and catch up.

I will be coming along to have a look and perhaps sign up for next event, now that the cars finally sorted. Big thanks to mic for the fedral 595's too!

4 sure! I'm sure the new metalCAT will increase the volume, i just hope its not over the top, i wouldn't want it to be illegal or anything . But hey the new CAT should be better on the environment, considering i had to cut the old one out, I think it was a bit past its used by date. We'll have to have a work skidpan day!

White R34 GTR (HOT!) at intersection of hindmarsh and canberra Ave, heading towards kingston this morning ~8.25am.

Yeah, the alloy bushes sure are tempting, oh well, too late for me now. There are trade-offs but they would be so much easier to install and i imagine they'd eliminate a significant amount of subframe movement. I think anyone considering this job should go for a ride in a car which has alloy subframe locks mounted to get an idea if the NVH is tolerable for them...

Broke this trying to undo hydraulic lines on the HICAS system. More to come later.

Note cooling fins on the back of the diff, do i have a Vspec or is this normal? chassis number says no, but i also have bilstien suspension.... no brembos....

Subframe bush removed. Be careful not to scratch the bush mounting in the subframe when hacksawing through the bush or when pushing it out with chisel.

One of the rear subframe bushes. These have a solid rubber inner section which makes them a bit easier to remove. There seem to be subtle differences in the structure of the front and rear subframe bushes.

One front silicon filled bush with centre metal ring removed. Hack saw in place and ready to cut. We made 2 cuts through the outer metal ring (one is visible in the pic), then forced out the section made free by the 2 cuts with a long screwdriver/chisel + hammer. Then the rest of the bush can be removed using the same technique. Once one section is free, the bush can be removed fairly easily.

One of the subframe bushes. This is one of the silicon fluid filled ones at the front of the sub-frame. Firstly we drilled out the rubber (and silicon filled) part of the bush between the inner and outer metal rings. Used a hole saw to start but you will require extra long/deep holesaw to get all the way through. So i followed up with a normal drill bit and simply lots of holes. Then use a large screw driver and a hammer to push through the rest of the rubber/silicon crap. Then hammer out the inner metal ring. Then its hacksaw time . Beware the silicon filled front bushes have a double layer metal skin at the outer edge which needs to be hack sawed through - a major pain in the bum (or lower back to be more precise). Even though 1 of these bushes was buggered they were all still exceptionally annoying to remove and seemed to have relatively intricate internal construction (for a bush at least!). This did make me wonder if i should have got a quote on the OEM nissan replacement - these ones did last ~15 years. How long have the noltec ones need tested for? She'll be right.

Another shot of the rear subframe + back of car raised. HICAS ram features also.

The upside down subframe assembly including upper links +lower arm (visible), hubs and discs. HICAS ram removed. The steering rods attach onto the stubs from the hubs which are visible in the pic. The stubs on the lower control arms are where the anti-roll bar mounts. NB - be careful not to damage these when handling the subframe! Subframe was removed using 2 jacks (pictured earlier). Diff was removed using 1 jack and 2 loops of rope going over the subframe, one across the front of the diff where it attaches to the primary drive shaft and one at the back through some pronounced cooling grooves which run along the underside. You can clearly see the 4 big holes where the subframe bushes used to sit, one is still in place. Notice the use of expert trolleys

As you will likely have read elsewhere, you will need to remove wheels, calipers (via 2 bolts + 1 bracket on hub). The only other item off the hub that needs to be removed is this bolt which attaches the springs/dampers to the hub. It is not necessary to remove the upper control arm to hub bolt as in the pic. It is possible to leave the HICAS system and diff (once primary drive shaft is unbolted) in situ, but i wouldn't recommend it the subframe assy is heavy enough by itself. HICAS should be ok to leave on though once the hydralics are disconnected.

HICAS ram being removed. You will require pittman arm puller to get rod ends out.

Under car, demonstrating method used to hold car up. axle stands holding chassis with wood buffer.

Hi all When that weird sticky fluid starts oozing out of the back end of your skyline and/or the rear end wriggles under acceleration/brakes/cornering then it may be time to take a look at your subframe bushes - mine were rooted. I have purchased some noltec subframe bushes to replace the old ones from motor spares. I will also be getting some diff mounting bushes (UAS), whiteline subframe alignment bushes (pinapples) to firm up the rear end. Anyway its a big job and to add the the large body of information already available on SAU (search subframe bushes, R32, etc) i though i'd add some pics as i do the work. The first round - below. HICAS ram as attached to rear subframe at back of diff. Note the bushes at the top of the pic, these are 2 of the diff mounting bushes that will likely be replaced.

spotted KW at cooleman court petrol station. Nice car by the way! - I've got one just like it. Me, you and michelle will have to do a silver R32 GTR photoshoot someday.

Good Work, great to hear its all coming together. I'll see you at work tommorrow. My car is off the road at the moment, doing rear subframe bushes, subframe alignment bushes (pinapples), diff bushes, HICAS lock, new CAT, some new vacuum lines, radiator hoses. probably also thermostat, engine temp sensor. This is a warning, unless you are keep as mustard, mechanically talented (i.e. a mechanic) and have a multitude of tools at your diposal as well as the patience of a monk on valium then DO NOT attempt to replace the subframe bushes on your skyline. I was quoted $1200 (including the bushes) from trojan to replace the subframe bushes and I can assure you that is entirely reasonable! However, If you are keen to learn how it all works and have a fair bit of spare time as well as the previously mentioned traits then by all means go for it. My 2c, I never want to do this again. Anyone who has the cash I would reccomend you take the car to your trusted mechanic or suspension workshop. Hopefully the car will feel on rails once its all done.

Damn, I better sit this one out then the poor clutch and/or bushes would most definitely give up on me. I'll still be down there to spectate, catch up and take photos. See y'all tomorrow.

Hey all Considering entering tomorrow morning if there is still space, my license is still good from last year and i'm happy to turn up early. Enjoyed it so much last year! Unfortunately the clutch is on the way out and I have a few suspension bushes playing up. Given that, I would prefer to run on the wet skidpan and perhaps a couple of runs on the back track (provided clutch holds up). So just wanted to confirm that the wet skidpan is in? or isn't it? If not i'll probably sit this one out and spectate. Either way see you tommorrow! Looking forward to it.

Hey all Considering coming along, car needs a bit of work at the moment, so we'll see. This event is soooo much fun though, might see if i can borrow the folks GTS-T or perhaps as a last resort the ol' Alfa GTV6. I'll post up tomorrow if i'm coming along. It would be great to catch up with everyone as i've been somewhat dormant on the forums/events for a bit.

Hi all Just saw this article on edmunds insideline - link: http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Featu...photopanel..1.* or http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/ hope its not already posted. Interesting comparison with the 997. Also ATTESSA rocks

So here I was getting excited - "LA 2007: U.S.-spec Nissan GT-R huge performance bargain at $69,850" - Autoblog but then "The GT-R will also be expensive, at least in the UK, where the proposed windscreen sticker will almost double the £31,000 Japanese price. Nissan is thinking of setting up barriers to stop anyone who plans to import Japanese models personally." - telegraph.co.uk So.. the price could be anywhere between: from US - 69,850 / .80 = ~90,000 AUD based on 1AUD = 80c US which is a little pesimistic considering where they may be going financially. So potentially a good price signal from US. :laughing-smiley-014: OR from UK - ~ £62,000 / .430 = ~ 145,000 AUD. maybe it will average out to be ~$120,000 (or $130,000) which is what I would expect. Maybe i'll have to forego buying a house.... because I think I need this car more.... dunno if I should mention that in front of my significant other. Great find these articles, good reads. I'm excited about this GTR big kev style bless his soul (maybe) . Also interesting that last sentence from telegraph quote.

I will want some work done down the line to fix the minor ding in my door and respray thew front bar after having a little incident with a little roo. Can anyone recommend a good panel repairer/ spray shop in canberra? I had some minor work done from a certain just car certified repairer and only recently the rear window seal (which was R&R) has come away and I have been advised by a couple of mechanics i trust that this most likely occurred during R&R. I also now have a rattle in the back over bumps (may be unrelated). The rest of the work looked great mind you.