luke gtr

ok, so now installed. keep in mind, the factory uses pinch nuts to lock them. USE LOCTITE!!! you don't want a subframe coming loose. also, the steering column required extra length. this was a temporary solution to push the car in and out. was thinking about it for use, but the torque put on those bolts would eventually snap them.

during the install, had to lower the whole subframe evenly. then, enlarge the holes for the shank nut. I used a stepped drill bit. worked very well to get to thhe size needed. also went a little oversize as the original holes were bigger, and allowed for any differences.

gtst too. its because of the slope of the 32 bonnets.

ok, so, before and after pics of install. before....

now, for process and pics. first, the spacers themselves... the spacer was made in 3 parts, 20mm, 5mm, 5mm totalling 30mm all up. the reason for this was so, if the whole 30 was not needed, the height could be adjusted. height can be 30, 25, 20, 10 and 5mm(just swapping the pieces around. the top spacer is actually the washer for the nut. a shank style nut was used so it would have the greatest thread contact area, whilst also locating the spacers themselves. the extra height on the nut is just under the thickness of the subframe itself. and all done in the box when picked up.

2nd, why not lower the engine on the mounts and run no cam cover, or cut bonnet bracing? I have lowered the engine in the mounts(die grinded mount holes). I wanted the cam cover for the fact it keeps debris out, and less attention. And as stated, I DIDNT want to cut the bonnet in any way. everything I have done can be reversed. all can be put back to standard. that's the way I wanted it.

1st, why did I want to space? easy, I didn't want to cut my bonnet. for that one, simple reason I undertook this task. now, as many know, you don't have to cut bonnets in a 33/34, but 32s, its pretty much the only option. some other advantages: -if done right, exhaust should line up to near factory*. -turbo to guard pipe should line up*. -guard to plenum should line up*. -looks more factory(to a degree), as the motor is still roughly the same spacing from and strut bars. some disadvantages: -cooling fan no longer lines up. -slight slope to motor. -cant lower car**. *should has been used, as I went with a single turbo conversion, so am unsure of pipework. I also changed to a Greddy plenum ive had on the shelf for years, waiting for the build. **cant/shouldn't lower the car more, as due to the engine being lower, the cvs are at a lower angle already. so, in essence, dropping the subframe 30mm, is like lowering the car the same amount.

ok, wanted to finish the car and drive it a little before I threw this up. have been driving for 1700kms now, with no real adverse affects** so, welcome all to my 30mm subframe drop thread. any questions you have, throw them in here, and I will try and answer as quickly and honestly as possible. please keep in mind, I doubt this is legal. these havnt been "engineered" yet. I will try one day, but havnt had the time/money associated to do so. I will try and include any info I can that helped/hindered myself when doing this. the spacers I used were made by a race/rally car engineer, and calculated that the stud the mount to would snap before the shank nut. so, here we go....

this is the plan. hope traffic doesn't suck.

make it the week after, and I might come if the car is still running from nats *touch wood*

deals

from the pics (always clearer irl), looks to be surface rust atm. strip it back, get a can of rust converter (like spray paint), and go to town on it.

should be able to buy a single piston from any cp supplier. may have to wait for it to be ordered and shipped though.

for an all out, every last hp head, sounds about right, start to finish.

wow. good luck with repair

also curious. have box with holinger input shaft.

tyres

welcome. pics of car? hope you find some useful info on here. and once youre qualified, hope you can help others.

flat enough.

could also be fault in the headdeck.have had similar before. but I think will make a good demo.

1- 56mm centre to centre 2- 14mm 3- 9-10mm hope that helps. sorry it took so long.

pot

the reason they would have the humps (my reasoning), is due to the heat that passes through the port. the hump gives extra material around the exhaust manifold stud. with the load on the manifold, then the heat I would think you run the risk of the head becoming more mailable, and letting the studs move. thats the way I think of it.

example. 26/30. 6 boost manifold. china bush bearing gt42. 445rwkw @19 - 20psi exhaust humps untouched. not ported. no problems so far.

followed workshop manual.