Krishy

Ouch not another one. Sorry to ask the obivious question mate but did you have a working alarm/immobilizer/club lock etc? Glad mine isn't running atm. Hope you find your ride quick and without too much damage.

My aim is to get the car up and running again. Here goes my list: 1) Get the diff working 2) Check the brake pads and possibly repalce it if need be. 3) Replace all the fluids 4) Take time off work. apart from that no real issues really

+1

Yep totally agree with the post above. Spend all the cash on buying all the upgrades then save and have them put in or DIY and then get a tune. Otherwise you will end up paying a crazy amount on a mod upgrade and tune. Most things you won't worry about getting a tune with, for example putting that actuator on, you really don't need a tune but look at getting an aftermarket ecu as the stock ecu's are no good for tuning

Yep another +1 here for the KU's I ran the KU36's on my setup last track day and got the times down to where I realistically wanted to. Just make sure that you run the tire pressure a touch low to start with as they will get some heat into them

Just going through my photo archive and came across a few good ones:

better then nothing I guess

fixed lol

Please put me down + a handjob from Fliggy

TFIF, time for me to get excited and get smashed Last day of work for me in Country Health Metro here I come

I have been running a blocked off BOV since I got my car, never every have I had this issue but in saying that there has been known issues about blocking of the stock BOV. Unfortunately you can't have flutter and stop it from stalling. Unblock the BOV and then see how it reacts. If it is still stalling then there might be other issues too

He still owns one but does he drive it, well that is to be seen lol

Definite YES from me mate. Been using it for a long time. Bit pricey but good street tyre

That would have been interesting lol. I was only trying to help

Are you buying this Matty???? http://www.j-spec.com.au/featured/1956-Mercedes_Benz-300SL_gullwing-15418.html

http://www.carsguide.com.au/site/news-and-reviews/car-news/citroen_tubik_ugliest_show_car_ever For some weird reason, I can see Iron Chef driving this

Bill at ATS or the boys down at MTQ can do it. There are places interstate that do it as well

I ran my car with the stock turbo on 12.5psi making roughly 215rwkw. The supporting mods were, Coilpacks, FMIC, Turbo back exhaust, Power FC, 740cc injectors (however you won't need to upgrade injectors or AFM to hit 200 rwkw). So a small list of mods should see that power figure

Awesome that is good to see mate. Yeah autos for some reason make a wee bit less power then manuals.

Good to hear that this has worked well for you mate. Now time to dyno it to have a power figure to work with

Damn it my flight has now changed to a later flight arrgh well can't make it this week again

Doesn't matter how many KM's the actuator has done to be honest. Sounds like you should be doing the service (oil, sparks filter change) before you even bother driving with the new actuator. Once the power bug bites start saving some $$ because you will be spending a bit on upgrades to chase the power that you desire only to change it again 6 months on

Welcome to the forums Mikey. Changing old oil and spark plugs is rather easy but if you are doing it for the first time then it can be a bit daunting. There are a few DIY's as to how you can get a few things done, just do a quick search of the whole SAU board. Before you up the boost, I would suggest that you change the oil and use 100% fully synthetic good oil and change the spark plugs to a .8mm gaping. As for the oil filter, I have found out that the ryco filters are just fine. I have in the past boosted my stock setup up to 12psi with the aid of a good electronic boost controller and have had no issues. If you want the hassle free (ie no boost controller) then the RB20 turbo actuator is the go my friend. Enjoy your stay

Very good news. Can't wait to start hitting the Drags.

bahaha that would be one hell of a car