Cubes

The R32's std switch and wiring turns off the low beam when the high's are flicked on. I modified my switch so the low stays on.

So much for me measuring it.. LMAO... I'll get out soon and measure it tonight. RE: the gear shift.. I vaguely remember something in another defect thread that it must have the pattern on it.

Well hasn't some one been pissing in your ear.. lol @ Rolls...

Very interesting.. Be sure to grab a dyno sheet for us. Very interested in how it goes.

Andrew, Driving around Uni quite a bit I actually find middle aged women to be the worse, they are actually quite agro and I think they think they own the road. I've had so many of them pull out in front of me causing me to hit the brakes hard, I then see they are on their mobile phone. There's ONE lady inparticular that I often see as I leave, without a doubt if I see her she always pulls out infront and doesn't accelerate. I've gave her multiple beeps as she's on the phone as she's always on the phone leaving work or what ever she does. Now she gives me the finger all the time.. lol - not indicating early enough/at all - pulling out of a sidestreet in front of someone causing them to lock it up - turning a corner into the centre lane - sitting in the right hand lane anytime - especially on an 80km/h road <------------ This one needs to be enforced. I often see Learners with their parents sitting in the right lane cruising, damn I wish I was a cop more, I would inform the bad drivers that choose to ignore general courtesy road rules.

Thats what mine looked like.. worn down but in fact they are actually melted slight causing the once pointed tip to be flat.

Most likely trying to focus attention away from himself, instead of people remembering him they remember his jumper. Poor bloke... Wouldn't wish that on anyone.

Which is exactly what I am hoping happens. All though it still spools up perfectly fine in first at least I will be able to get just a little more speed and hopefully a little better traction, at the moment its lunge it off the line and short shift to second instantly where I can get some power down.

Everything is 100%.

Power won't change... Torque to the rear wheels will. On the note of faster acceleration. The R32/R33/R34 ratio's are well sorted for the engine size and gearbox ratio's. I run an RB30 using the std 4.363:1 diff ratio. The car feels buzzy through the first two gears. First simply sucks. I'm going to be dropping in a 3.9:1 diff ratio in the next week or so. After driving a mates VL making similiar power but with 3.45:1 diff ratio I could immediately feel the benifit of having longer diff gears behind the rb30. The 3.45 did feel a tad long as it appeared to be off the boil leaving corners, I've done a few calcs, the 3.9:1 ratio is pretty much spot on for what I want and the speed I drive at. I don't like holding out gears to gain adequate road speed, the rb30 limping around keeping up with traffic can do with a gear change at ~2000rpm, the rb20det requires around 3000-3500rpm. Allthough the car 'may' be slower I don't care, it will feel faster and hold me in the seat longer, it will return slightly better economy on the open road and simply be nicer and cruisier to drive. I'll have to take a vid of how it drives with the stock ratio before I pull it out, you will see what I mean by buzzy. I have noted that I've seen one bloke post here that had an rb25det in his R32, he dropped his ratio from the 4.363 to 4.11 and claimed it felt much better to drive, with such a small change even he said the 4.363:1 felt a little short for the 2.5ltr.

Awesome... If only I knew this earlier.. Ahh well hopefully I won't need them in the future.

Who would of been?

Not a complete waste of time. Early notification of fuel, water air filter problems... And gives you an indication of the oils VI over your change period. With regards to wear yes it can be a waste of time.

] Its 100% not compressor surge. The GT35r .82 on an RB30 won't experience compressor surge unless you some how manage to get it making 1bar at 2500rpm. RE: The stalling.... Atmo bov, try playing with the off throttle fuel cut I showed u last time, bump it up a little higher. I don't believe shaun would have done this as he would have loaded another map in to it erasing what you already have.

Its a dyno, they don't represent real world torque figures.

I have no idea. It doesn't seem bad and if it is the packs it will be more pronounced once you bolt that r33 turbo on and push 14psi through it. It may need a remap or ecu to take advantage of the bigger turbo though.

If that is the case *most likely* on 8psi.. I wouldn't be concerned.

Its not really obviously but there does appear be an ever so slight hole around 120km/h. Plug gap? Are you running copper ngk's with a 0.8mm gap?

I've heard 2 types of what could be considered a flutter. When you jump off the throttle at part boost levels and you hear a flutter due to a bov thats too tight. May very well be the case here as you are only running 8psi. Under full throttle/boost acceleration the bov isn't tight enough and begins to make a fluttering noise. I've seen the last on a dyno but it was pushing over 20psi.

Post the dyno sheet. If its dieing off after 4k and then picking up after 6k it will reflect. But your right.. I remember when mine was making 140rwkw or there abouts.. It felt slow. Only when it started cracking 160rwkw did it start feeling decent. Be aware dyno's read differently but mine at 12psi (stock ecu, stock IC, 3" exhaust) made 152rwkw with ~11.5:1 afr's. 100% stock on the same dyno it made 115rwkw.

Oh.. 20w50..

Bl4ck32 runs a Nismo GT Pro 2 way and is on the softest setting running redline oil. I remember there was a thread some time ago that discussed how clucky/shuddery 1.5/2ways were under slight slow cornering acceleration. It was mentioned that castrol syntheitc lsd oil pretty much shuts it up, I can't remember who it was but they too ran redline diff oil and it was fairly clunky. It was also mentioned to set the diff tighter so it doesn't unlock so easy and clunk around, this too apparently makes it a tad more bearable. Bl4ck32's isn't too bad but still no doubt makes him damn nervous in a car park with police around. From the out side watching Shaun drive it up on to the dyno it almost looks like a locker the way the inside wheel spins slightly but with a bit of give.

Just ask for one to suit a VL or R31, all the RB's run the same oil filter. I've ran a K&N prior, The nut attached to the end makes it so damn easy to remove the filter.

I had a similiar cold start issue on the stock ecu... It would fire then stumble requiring either a second or two for the rev's to raise or a slight tap of the accelerator. I dropped a pfc in to it and bumped up the PFC's cold start cranking time and its now perfect. Cold start flicks straight to 1500rpm where it sits then slowly drops as the car becomes warm. The std pfc's cold start values had it cranking over for some time before it would fire, I bumped it up more, it then fired straight away but would stumble as the stock ecu would, bumped it up a little more and now its all good. The stock ecu also had slight idle hunt where as the pfc has a nice solid idle that vary's only 20-30rpm max.

Yes do your own oil changees and use a nice PureOne or genuine filter. The 15w50 will be fine, do remember nissan recommend 7.5w30 for a new motor with jap conditions being considerably cooler than ours. I'd leave it in for the whole 5000k. No need to drop it. As your spending so much on oil consider have an oil analysis done on it after 5k, then drop in the 10w40 do 5k on it and give that an oil analysis too. Will indicate which is better suited to the driving and condition of your motor.