Cubes

Where did you hear this culater? I've seen both a turbo and n/a block and they were identical apart from the pistons. I bought the n/a one sitting next to it for $150.

Here's the wasteland u two homo's. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...849&st=3580

Thats it.

Reason I say is early days I damaged a balancer using one. Now I only use what I think is called a steering wheel puller. Essentially looks like the letter Y with a big bolt in the middle. You will notice on balancers they have 2 m6 I think it was bolt holes near the center bolt, these are used to fix the puller to the balancer, you then screw the bolt that pushes against the crank essentially pushing off the balancer. If that makes sense.

What sort of puller did you use? Never use a puller that is a claw type that grips on to the edge of the balancer.

Its been like this for years, make your car look hot and it will get attention from the police. It happened to my old man, he had all of his cars (v6 Ford Capri running around with a v8, big arsed flairs & huge wheels, 351 Ford Fairlane, SLR5000 & HQ Monaro) defected numerous times.

With higher VE comes better cylinder filling. Better cylinder filling means you get more fresh air in and leaving less of the old crap behind. If you can raise VE then you have a motor that is breathing and pumping air at a greater rate. To achieve the same airflow with this better breathing motor the boost pressure will be lower. A motor with a higher VE = a better breathing motor, a better breathing motor = less boost required to achieve a given airflow. Think of it like taking a deep breath while running then breathing out of your nose vs breathing out of your mouth. As you know many things affect the engines ability to pump air, head design, cam profile/timing and inlet/exhaust pressure. An engine is nothing more than an airpump.

Ash, Bring it around some time and I will have another look. I remember the 2 cells under the idle cells were set too rich that would cause it not to drop in to closed loop on idle. Why shaun did this i'm not sure, maybe it had an idle issue when leaned out. Will find out I guess. The position of your o2 sensor may also make it lazy as its a fair distance from the back of the turbo and is smack in the middle where the wastegate pipe joines the exhaust. Not optimal. On the note of fuel economy.. I've just cracked 478km's and its just above the empty line, might get another 5km's before the light comes on, the strange thing is I've driven it harder than I usually do as I've got a set of tyres on the rear that grip.

ahh no problems... When my pfc was in for repairs it would hang on the intro screen when it wasn't receiving certian inputs. i.e simply running power through it. Once installed it was fine. Its also been known for the plug to be slightly off and not done up straight causing it too to hang on the intro screen. But yes if the avcr isn't receiving values either then something is definitely up. I would check removing the ecu hasn't broken/distrubed the work done on the loom when the avcr was isntalled.

The PFC h/c and fuel pump prime should only show/be heard when in the on position, then a further turn to start will have the car start, letting go of the key returns it to the on position where the car continues to run. Check the sensor sw screen and post up ALL of the values, preferably take a photo of the screen and post it.

I believe there's a second hand Kazz item in the forsale section. The blokes in Adelaide also. Its out of an R32, simply swap the centers over to retain your currentl ratio.

Ahh the old saying... Treat em' mean to keep em' keen.

Its underwarranty, send the car back in and get it fixed correctly as I believe hicas lock bars are not street legal. So if you were defected and had to go back to std you would have a nonworking hicas that flashes the dash light at you.

It all comes down to experience, local tuners here have absolutely no problems tuning a complete wot run well within 1hr on a rolling road with nothing more than the dyno's wideband display and the pfc's handcontroller in hand. A complete tune takes 3 maybe 4 hours. I have known tuners that are used to laptop tuning to struggle with the pfc's hand controller, but once learnt my tuner now prefers to tune via the h/c rather than the datalogit software. But it is MUCH easier on the dyno.

Thats A 1600cc injector.

Mad082, you are right given everything else equal, 14psi worth of air is 14psi worth of air. Forget the airflow side of things for a minute and think about how a motor makes use of the air supplied, everything I'm about to say has already been said so I'll simply quote. I'll quote Stockymcstock. Then after all that think about a the compressor side, a larger turbo generally provides air more efficiently than a smaller turbo, check out a few compressor maps and note how compressor efficiency drops off drastically on the smaller turbo's at high airflow rates. This obviously is a power killer and adds heat to the charge.

The Lysholm blower definitely looks like a good thing. What are they worth? I've had a bit of a google but unable to find any prices. I think with the rb30 you'd have to run VL style diff gears to make use of the torque otherwise it would be wheel spin and gearchanges every half a second.

Why not look at something from the Toyo range... They appear to make awesome top end and low/mid range tyre, no doubt their mid to high range tyre is also awesome (Proxes 4). http://www.toyo.com.au/PCR%20new.htm Toyo have a complete new range in that replaces the old. T1RS Proxes 4 TEO Plus (Highest quote was $180, managed to get a set for $150 each, the owners son had a Skyline) In the price range I don't think there's another tyre on the market that comes close to the TEO plus. ($150-$180)

Due to low power levels in the past I've always got away with running the cheap import tyres such as Simex, Barum, Sava and Firenza. Out of those the Simex were the best for straight line grip but the Firenza's were best for cornering. Since the rb30det went in those tyres really showed the lack of traction they provide. I recently threw on another set of tyres that are not as cheap but still considered cheap. Toyo TEO Plus, they are replacing the old Tranpath SW. First impressions... wow.. I can now get all of second gear down with only slight wheel spin depending on road surfance. Wet weather traction is the best I have had apart from when I ran a set of Goodyear F1's. Simex are plain dangerous in the wet, they should not be allowed on Aus. roads. Definitely a good mid range silica based tyre. Toyo TEO Plus.

I'll bring every one back to a few things GTSD1 has stated in previous posts as we appear to be going around and around. from the traffic watch thread....

Roy, The R32 and R33 heads are much different, the R32 RB25DE ports are a bee's dick smaller and of a different design, the R33 n/a head also runs vct, unfortunately the plenums are not interchangable.

I'm not sure about the other PFC's but when I dropped the PFC in to my R32 it constantly supplied the pump with high voltage. No more low voltage on idle with the PFC, In mine and other R32 GTST's I've seen. I believe it would be possible to rewire the pump to still use the factory voltage control module. From memory I remember seeing something in the manual about the resistor pack to drop the fuel pumps voltage is located in the engine bay. If its needed in your case.... suck and see... Unless you want to do it just to be safe and possibly save you having to go back for another tune, but chances are with a decent 044 even at the lowever voltage it will be fine. But really.. I don't know as there's a few variables that man influence if its up to the task, fuel pressure, boost and injectors size. Run less fuel pressure and the fuel pump will flow more.

There's more to 4wd's than just being able to hit off the off road. Towing capacity. If you own a decent sized boat a 4wd with suitable towing capacity is your only option. I think many would be suprised how many mums in their shopping trolleys have camper trailers, boats and caravans sitting in their shed at home. I completely agree with the wank factor range, I can't say I would buy one if I had the money.

I don't think its all that laggy compared to say a RB25 running a gt3040 .82. The GT3040 .82 gets going at say 4000rpm. At 4000rpm the 383 twin turbo is making ~260rwhp (194rwkw). So it would still haul arse putting around in traffic, one would have to be carefull not to take it another 500-1000rpm higher thats all. As the old saying goes... There's no replacement for displacement. LOL at the 230degree intake temp.

Sambo, If your bushes aren't leaking throw the pineapples in. If they are... Best option is to go a full bush replacement pineapples to angle the cradle to provide traction or how ever you want it setup.