
rayj
Members-
Posts
287 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by rayj
-
Hi, Intercooler parts for sale. Intercooler core Just Jap intercooler. Narrow type. 550 x 150 x 65mm 2.25" outlets $75 In excellent condition, no damage. Straight fins. Just a little dirty, will come up really nice with a clean. The intercooler fits under the front reinforcement bar. Therefore, no illegal modifications need to be made for fitment. My Cefiro made 175kwrw comfortably with this core. A31/Cefiro intercooler piping ASE fabricated aluminium 2.5" pipe work. High quality. In tip top condition. $150 All parts located in Adelaide, Enfield area. Get in contact with me on here, or message me on 0434030114. Thanks
-
Hi, Intercooler parts for sale. Intercooler core Just Jap intercooler. Narrow type. 550 x 150 x 65mm 2.25" outlets $75 In excellent condition, no damage. Straight fins. Just a little dirty, will come up really nice with a clean. The intercooler fits under the front reinforcement bar. Therefore, no illegal modifications need to be made for fitment. My Cefiro made 175kwrw comfortably with this core. A31/Cefiro intercooler piping ASE fabricated aluminium 2.5" pipe work. High quality. In tip top condition. $150 All parts located in Adelaide, Enfield area. Get in contact with me on here, or message me on 0434030114. Thanks
-
Anyone Chasing Full Genuine Autech Kit?
rayj replied to Cupcake's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
I think you'll get more interest in you put pics up. I'd definately like to see what it looks like. What colour is the kit? -
ok cheers, thanks for the help im not going to worry about, too much trouble...
-
Hi, Does anybody know if intercooler piping on a R31 or R32 is the same as an A31? Will it suit with a little modification, or are they just not compatible...? Thanks
-
Hi, I need to take my door lock out from the passenger side because it was broken into and now the lock is mangled... I've got the door trim off, that was easy. But now I'm looking inside the door, I can see the lock barrel/cylinder, but how do I take it out? This is a Cefiro btw, but I'm assuming most Nissan's would have the same lock setup... Thanks for any help
-
Hey, My door lock is mangled after some idiot decided to stick a screw driver in it... so now I need a new one. Just wondering if the A31 door lock is the same as any other Nissan? Anybody know? Thanks
-
Anyone Chasing Full Genuine Autech Kit?
rayj replied to Cupcake's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
they're not very rare... its worth about $100, but ill give you $150 -
Hey there, I need some guidance, especially from panel beaters, or anyone with solid experience in this matter... Over the last few days I decided to give fixing my front bar a go (Autech bar from a Cefiro). It had a few cracks at the bottom as a result of the car being low. It was also modified, with a large central part cutout to accomodate for an intercooler. I was lucky enough to have gotten my hands on the piece that was cutout, and have now decided to reattach it. Please note: this is my first attempt ever doing fibreglass work or bodywork. What the bar looks like now after my fibreglassing efforts: You can distinctly see the cutout area I have reattached. It fitted really well and has come up flush with the area around it . It also seems like its bonded well, feels strong. Now with some experience in fibreglassing, and extra research using forums, I could have done a few things a bit better. But overall, at this stage, I'm happy with the results so far. It's at this stage I need some help... What should I do about filling in the gaps/area where I have reattached the cutout to the rest of the bar? Should I use some sort of filler? I have bought a product called K&H KAHGLASS, which is a reinforced body filler (has fibreglass particles in it). However, after some thought, wouldn't the filler overtime crack and deteriorate due to general driving conditions, and the bar slightly flexing during driving etc.? Are there other products better recommended for a job like this? Should I completely remove the paint around the area where its been reattched? Any other suggestions? Thanks for any help
-
yeh i was thinking the same thing... after so many years the coil packs start to degrade and get affected adversely by heat im gonna keep the cover on and cut it in half with a space of 10mm or so. that will offer some form of ventilation and easy removal.
-
cheers guys. slot and fold is what ill be doing tomorrow thanks for the help
-
Hi, I know this question has been asked before, and most people just leave the cover off to increase ventilation. Is ventilation in this area really that important important though? If it was, wouldn't the engineers at Nissan add some ventilation features into the cover's design? I'm assuming coil packs are made to withstand very high temps, and as such do not require high ventilation, unless of course you have a very high powered car... My car for example is a lightly modded car, running at about 11-13psi. At the moment my cover is cut, and only the section where the ignitor mounts is left. I have a complete one, and was thinking of cutting it in half under the cross over pipe for easy removal. Any opinions/facts? Thanks
-
i was never thinking of removing the reo, i just wanted to know if i should modify it, and whether mods to the reo are legal. that mod you made is a great idea. i could just cut a small line into the reo, about 20mm, and then bend the steel back from the cut. that would give me the clearance i need, and if anyone ever kicks up a fuss about it, i could bend it back into place and weld it it up. cheers man
-
I'm fairly sure it's illegal to remove the bar here in SA, but just not sure about small mods, like grinding small bit (20mmx30mm) off. the cooler connects to the shell by 4 brackets supplied in the kit. 2 from the top of the cooler. 1 on the left, and another at the bottom. it holds the cooler nice and firm.
-
UPDATE. Intercooler arrived from Japan, and I have fitted it onto my Cefiro. This ARC intercooler kit is specifically made for the A31. Fitment is awesome, no modifications had to be made. It's just a simple bolt on job. All brackets fit perfectly. So everything went great... until I started to fit the front re-bar. I have a slight problem and wanted to get some opinions. The front re-bar doesn't completely clear the intercooler on the right hand side. This is because the i/c sits right of center on the car. The re-bar will still bolt on if I push it in, but it makes contact with i/c on the right hand side and pushes the i/c back about 1cm when I push the re-bar on. It's not really a big deal or anything, but the contact is there. See this pic: So, is slightly modifying the re-bar illegal? Say I get an angle grinder and shave off a little bit from the area where it makes contact... so there is clearance between the i/c and re-bar. Have a look at this pic, it shows how the i/c fits from the front: From the 2 pics above you can clearly see that half the i/c sits behind the re-bar. So basically my question is, should I modify my re-bar to accomodate the i/c a bit better, or should I not worry about it and leave it alone? With the way everything is now, will my i/c still function properly or be hindered a lot? Thanks for any suggestions and help
-
Thanks guys. TXS http://www.txs.com.au/silicon/ have a really good range, and they have everything in black. I wish there was a store like this in Adelaide...
-
Hey, Is there a store somewhere in Adelaide which stocks a large variety of black silicone joiners? I'm in need of a fair few in various sizes and angles... Most places I've been to have a very limited selection. Thanks for any help
-
Hi Front strut bar for a31/c33 manufactured by Carbing. Just got this from Japan a few days ago. Not needed anymore. It's brand new in box. Never used and still sealed. Made of aluminium, it's extrememly lightweight. Check out their website: Carbing front strut bar. Item is located in Adelaide 5085. Willing to post interstate. PM me or msg 0434030114. $150
-
Hi, Well my Cefiro was broken into, well pissed off, but anyway now I go to get it sorted... The pics below show the damage. First pic is of the break in damage. Mangled lock and door dented around lock. Second pic is of the same door, unrelated to the break in. Shows paint bubbling from a previous owners dodgy paint job. So basically, would I be better off buying a new door, which includes a lock, and getting it repainted and calibrating the lock to suit my key? Or should I just buy a new lock, get it calibrated to suit my key, and get my current door fixed up? Thanks for any help Ray
-
im still interested in the parts i asked u about a week ago...
-
Where Is The Coolant Drain Bolt On The Rb20det Block?
rayj replied to rayj's topic in General Maintenance
just in case somebody comes across this thread oneday, that bolt in the pic is indeed the coolant drain on the rb20det -
Where Is The Coolant Drain Bolt On The Rb20det Block?
rayj replied to rayj's topic in General Maintenance
whats the bolt for at the bottom of that line? the top is the into the turbo, then there is a 14 bolt under it, is that the coolant drain? -
Where Is The Coolant Drain Bolt On The Rb20det Block?
rayj replied to rayj's topic in General Maintenance
so thats the one im after, this is the coolant drain? the bolt which, once removed, will release coolant from the block?