rayj

What's the best way to check for injectors? Should I just do the screwdriver method? Also, how exactly do you check injectors? I know you're meant to take off the CAS, rotate it by hand and listen for clicks. Am I meant to hear 6 clicks independent of each other?

So I've just done a compression test. The test was carried out on a cold engine because the car barely even idles and usually just dies anyway. Went and bought a brand new Stanley compression tester from Supercheap. I don't know how accurate/calibrated these testers are, but here are the results: 1 150 2 150 3 145 4 145 5 145 6 150 I removed the fuel pump fuse, ignitor, coil packs, all spark plugs, and coil pack loom. Throttle at WOT. Then cranked 3 times per cylinder.

Well it's not the ignitor either... I'm starting to fear the worst, like something is internally wrong with the engine...

I will check the ignitor soon. Have sourced 2 I can check with. How exactly do you check injectors? I've searched on this forum. I know you're meant to take off the CAS, rotate it by hand and listen for clicks. But how am I meant to rotate it, one smooth complete revolution? Am I meant to hear 6 clicks independent of each other? As I rotate I can hear the fuel priming and clicking...

Even after moving around coil packs the missfire remains on the same cylinders. Both cylinder 1 and 5 failed at exactly the same time, which made me think this was highly unlikely to be a coil pack or spark plug problem. I think it's safe to say the ignitor has died. Could it be anything else?

Thanks for the tip, will try that tomorrow

Hi My rb20 engine is idling really rough. While idling I took off each coil pack plug one at a time and found 2 coil packs weren't affecting idle, the other 4 would make idle even worse... If an ignitor is failing will all coil packs be affected, or can it only affect 1 or a few? Or, have 2 coil packs failed at exactly the same time?! Cheers for any help

Nah, it always sounds the same, and goes away at the same point in the rev range, above 2500-3000. But as soon as revs drop below that rev range the noise comes back

It's not the timing belt cover, there's no bends in it. It just started randomly and obviously got me a bit worried it might have something to do with engine internals...

It doesn't really matter because all I need is the actual solenoid part. From what I understand they're all the same and work the same.

Hey Looking for an AAC valve in good working order for any RB engine. Thanks

Hey Just want to get some opinions. It's hard to explain a noise, but I think the best way to describe it is - it has a spinning sound to it. It's not a rattle, squeak or screech. It comes from the front of the engine area. It's not belts slipping. It's usually always audible, but tends to go away at a higher rev range, around 2500-3000 revs... Cheers

Apart from the plug difference, does anyone know if these are interchangeable? Thanks for any help.

The pin out for the A31 CAS and R32/R33 (Series 1) CAS is exactly the same. Just a matter of de-pinning the A31 square plug and installing the rounder R32/R33 plug making sure wires are in correct order.

Still looking.

Hey I'm looking for a CAS in good working condition to suit an RB20DET. PM me on here if you have one available. Cheers

Sent a PM about the CAS

WTB: CAS to suit RB20DET Message me on here if you have one available. Cheers

Cheers! Thanks for your help man

Hi Just want to make 100% sure before I put my turbo on the car. Is standard boost on a RB20DET with stock turbo simply controlled by the 10psi actuator, and a hose connected between the actuator and turbo? Is there anything else, or is that it? Another thing, the turbo currently on the RB20 is a VG30. This turbo will be swapped over to a stock RB20 turbo (in the next few days). The ECU is stock and has not been tuned for the VG30 turbo. In this situation is it okay to set timing at stock 15 degrees and drive the car carefully if I really need to use it until the VG30 is swapped out? Thanks heaps

Does anybody know?

Still searching

Thanks Hand tight seems to be the general consensus. So there is no need to use any thread locker on block to exhaust manifold or turbo to dump? Anti-seize seems like a good idea though?

Hi I'm finding conflicting information in regards to installing studs. For example, turbo to dump pipe, or exhaust manifold to block. Prior to torquing nuts down to spec, do studs initially need to be torqued or just finger tight? Thanks for any help.

Hi When using gaskets is it necessary or optional to also use a product like Permatex silicone gasket maker (Ultra Blue, Ultra Black etc.)? For example, gaskets used in turbo or exhaust applications, as well as, gaskets exposed to coolant and oil? I'll be doing a turbo swap and freshening up the exhaust manifold with new studs and gasket. Is it good practise to use products like this no matter how good the gaskets are? Thanks for any info