rayj

Hi Turbo has thrown in the towel. Need a turbo and lines really quick to get my daily back on the road. Sorry for putting it in this part of the forum. I need a turbo and lines today or tomorrow. Thought I try here before I go to wreckers. Please let me know if you have one. Message me on 0434 030 114. Cheers

Parts are still available.

Turbo sold.

Hey I've noticed there is a variation in the stock coolant return line for the A31 turbo. Normally is just one long line running behind the engine connecting to a hose. In the FAST diagram below there is a variation in the bottom left box. The coolant return line has a nipple towards the end of the line behind the engine, where it splits off to another hose. Where is it meant to connect to? You can also see this in my turbo photo below. Thanks

Hey After a bellmouth dump or split pipe (dump and front in one) for a RB20. Please let me know if you have one available. Cheers

Hi I have a few parts for sale: VG30 turbo with OP6 housing. From the VG30DET engine, not the smaller turbos from the VG30DETT. Comes with oil and coolant lines, and turbo elbow, that were on my RB20 with this turbo. Very minimal shaft play. $350 A31/C33/R31 square plug ignitor. No problems. $100 A31 Cefiro manual ECU No problems. $150 R32 turbo elbow $30 R32 exhaust manifold heat shield $30 Located in Adelaide, Enfield area. Contact me on here, or message me on 0434 030 114. Thanks

I will replace all of that stuff for sure, even if it looks as if it's already been off some time recently. Gasket looks clean and fresh. Just gotta get the manifold off first, turning out to be the hardest part. One thing I did notice when taking everything off, which didn't seem right, was how loose everything was. Dump pipe was loose, turbo on the manifold was almost finger tight, same with the exhaust manifold.

Hi In the process of installing a turbo. While off I thought it would be a good idea to get the exhaust manifold off too, check for any busted gaskets or studs. So far the process has been pretty straight forward. Problem is I can't get the exhaust manifold off. All 12 nuts have been removed, but the manifold isn't budging. Is it meant to slide off relatively easy? I've tried prying it off with force, it's moving a little, but I can see it's starting to stuff up the thread on some studs. Is there some sort of trick, or do you just keep swearing and try pulling it off from every angle? Cheers for any help

Coil pack loom sold. ECU still available.

It's not the AC because it still happens when it's off or on. What's a good way to check? Could I spray some WD40 around at specific things to see if it goes away momentarily?

Thanks heaps for that

Injectors and fuel rail sold.

All prices are negotiable. Also have: RB20DET standard injectors and fuel rail. No problems, everything works. $60

Any clarification to my above post? Thanks heaps for any help

Hi I'm really only looking for one stock RB20DET injector. Let me know if you have some spares lying around. Must not be leaking. If you have a full set let me know too. Contact me on here, or message me 0434 030 114. Thanks heaps

Need a stock RB20DET injector. If you have spares lying around please let me know. Contact me on here. Thanks heaps

Hi A31 Cefiro ECU manual Works properly, no problems. $200 Located in Adelaide, Enfield area. Message me on 0434 030 114. Thanks

Hi I have a few items for sale: R33 Series 1 coil pack loom. Great condition. $60 A31 Cefiro ECU manual Works properly, no problems. $200 Located in Adelaide, Enfield area. Message me on 0434 030 114. Thanks

What about the A31 4WD ECU? Will they still work properly in a normal Ceffy?

Cheers, yep I've found the only difference is the plug.

Problem found. Injectors were not flowing properly even though they were supposedly checked by a workshop... Got a second opinion and problem solved. I can't believe 3 injectors stopped flowing at the exact same time, what would cause that? Anyhow, now I need to set idle and timing on my auto A31 RB20DET. I've done a lot of research on this site, looked up info from the manual and stickers under the hood, but I'm still a bit unsure about a few bits. According to the sticker under my hood, idle and timing needs to be set to 700rpm @ 20deg BTDC. Setting RB20DET idle: Engine needs to be at normal operating temp. Shift lever to 'N' position. Make sure all accessories are of. Idle needs to be set to 700rpm. Simply disconnect AAC valve and turn idle screw appropriately to set. Then reconnect AAC valve. Here are some things I'm unsure about: I've read a few things in regards to adjusting idle with the ECU screw. When and why does this need to be done? Also, the way I understand it, the AAC valve is only in use under certain circumstances, eg. AC or headlights are on, steering wheel turned, etc. So that would mean normally it would not be in use. Therefore, after setting idle to 700rpm with AAC disconnected, then reconnecting it, the idle really shouldn't change from 700rpm unless the AC was turned on, or anything else that engages the AAC? Setting RB20DET timing: I know how timing is set, but there are a few little details I'm unsure of. Is timing also set at N 'position'? Is timing set with AAC connected or disconnected? What about the TPS, is it meant to be connected? The manual says nothing about disconnecting it, but I've read a number of people saying it should be disconnected when setting timing? Finally, before carrying out any idle or timing adjustments is it important to first check and eliminate any air/vacuum leaks, as well as, making sure the cold air regulator is properly opening and closing? Sorry for the long post, but thank you everyone for your help. Have a top weekend!

Cheers, I'll give it a go, got nothing to lose haha

Shouldn't the car still fire even if the AFM is rooted? It will be rough (limp mode), but it should still fire up. I've tried the with the AFM plugged and unplugged. Gonna buy an ECU to see if it's that Could compression tests be inaccurate? My results are above, and all seems good at a cold engine...

All injectors have been checked by a workshop and are flowing properly. All cylinders have been checked for spark. Each plug (all new) has spark, therefore loom is fine, so is the ignitor and all coil packs. Fuel hose disconnected, fuel is being pumped at ignition 'on' and when CAS is rotated by hand. Fuel hoses are connected properly. Spark and injector clicking when CAS is rotated by hand. The car will barely start now, won't even idle. Tries to start then immediately dies... I have no idea what's going on...

Yeah there was a difference. The 2 dead cylinders (1 and 5) were dry and a lighter colour, sort of whitish. The other four were black. Also, I was reading up about injector firing sequences on the RB20DET and apparently cylinder 1 and 5 together is part of a sequence. I'm not sure how true this info is...?