delljit

Just fitted a catback exhaust and the pipe is tapping the diff when i shake it (go over bumps, driveways etc). Any one had this problem? Do i have to adjust the hangers somehow? Any quick fixes for this like a heat resistant rubber stopper i can block up the gap between the diff and the pipe with?

Very interesting theory. Last week i gave my aac valve a very good clean. At first it seemed like the problem disappeared but after about 30min of driving it happened but only to a small extent. No where near as bad as it was before. The aac valve cleaning definately helped. Unfortunately, i havent been able to drive my car enough to see if the problem has gotten any better. I got busted driving it last week and got 2 fines, one for it being manual and the other for high powered vehicle (im a p-plater). Its my second car and i drive it like once a week but i dont feel like risking more fines. Im fully licensed next month though. The o2 sensor stuff sounds like its worth a try if it happens to me again, ill keep it in mind.

I've made it a personal goal of mine to *try* and do everything myself with my car. This includes wiring up my sound system. Ive purchased a monoblock and a suitable wiring kit and need to set it all up. I still have to buy a new headunit which i think i will do in the next month or so, so im just planning out what im going to do. As far as i know, i have a thin wire which i should run from the amp to the head unit (this tells the amp to turn on when the HU is on, right?) A thick blue power cable which will go to the positive terminal on the battery (i need to chop it and attatch the chunky ass fuse it came with) A thick silver cable which is short (assuming this is the ground from the amp). I'll have to purchase some rca's but they will just go from the HU to the amp, along side the power signal Since the battery is in the boot of an r33, should i just chop up the power cable so that its much shorter than it currently is or just leave it wound up in the compartment near the battery? It seems like having the battery in the boot makes this install a ton easier. I drew a terrible picture in mspaint to outline my understanding, please excuse how bad it is. I think it gets the point across though. edit: forgot to include rca from HU to amp Anyway, any corrections to what i said or tips for when i do this are appreciated.

Your car is extremely clean neil, and the wheels look amazing. Well suited to the silver/tinted windows. I love it. The photo quality is also great, they are some really high quality shots.

cool thanks for clearing that up, ill have to consider nengun if i decide on a fmic. Autobarn is just way to expensive.

i've seen it at autobarn for almost 1500 http://www.nengun.com/blitz/lm-intercooler is this the one? the name is correct but the image thumbnail is different. There are the arc ones which have return flow and are good too

did you have to cut anthing apart from the plastic on the front bar? i dunno if its worth an extra 1000bux to me instead of a cheap cooling pro one that req's a hole to be cut

Gave the AFM a good clean today, the inside was full of black shit. Gave it a clean with some electrical contact cleaner and put it back, the car seemed to run better than before. It still has a rough idle at times but its not as frequent. Tomorrow i'll be cleaning the aac valve, hopefuly that helps.

Some small facts first off - r33 gtst s2 (1996) with no mods apart from apexi pod. I recorded a video using my mobile phone so the quality isnt the greatest. Ill try to provide an explaination to help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Cyv2CWqDU In the video you can see that my idle is fluctuating from about 100-1000rpm. This occurs when ive been driving the car for around 5-10 minutes, or generally once its all warmed up properly. You may also notice that as the rpm fluctuates, so does the vac/boost. About 3/4 through the video you can see me open the throttle a little bit. The following is what i deal with on the roads when driving. Say im in second and approaching a corner or roundabout and have to give way so i slow down. Its very likely that the car will completely drop off all rpm and die on me. In the video im in neutral or first with the clutch in i forget. Either way, when im in first and i start to slow down a bit after opening the thottle, its very likely that the rpm will drop off to around 0 but not actually stall completely. As seen in the video i rev it a bit, then the rpm drops to about 0 and the battery light flashes for a second but the car doesnt actually die. Anyway, i plan to take the car to a workshop/garage this month to solve this issue however if i can do this at home id be excstatic. After searching the forums heavily ive come to the conclusion that it may be caused by one of, or a combination of the following: -faulty afm -leaking i/c piping -dirty aac valve -faulty o2 sensor -faulty tps Ive read that cleaning the aac valve can do wonders; is this the type of problem i can solve by cleaning the aac valve at home? It's just that i dont have a large amount of cash to wave around so being able to fix this my self would be great.

love the p1s

Get an NA car to drive on your Ps. I drove a v6 vn for my ps and i will be fully licensed in about 2 months. Ive had a r33 gtst sitting in my garage for 3 months tempting me and while i enjoy driving it once a week locally i will admit that not being allowed to drive it by law is fair. Its just too powerful for an inexperienced driver.

will a different gap on plugs reduce it? mine does it a fair bit and currently has 1.1mm gap ngk iridums (i believe thats the gap straight out of the box anyway) ill probably get it adjusted to .8mm when i take my car in for some diagnostic dyno to solve my power cutting issue

helpful advice would really depend on what power you are aiming for in the future

all the cooler piping in the engine bay was fine, i couldnt get the plugs off the grille to get the front bar off to get right in there and underneath to check those clamps tho lol i have no friends with skylines to test afm, think im just gonna have to bite the bullet and see a quality garage its breaking my heart

The filter? If you are making holes in the lid the air still has to pass through the filter. Same basic principle as the snorkel

any advice to do this properly? I guess i have to take the front bar off and get right down there but how do i check for leaks accurately?

Mien does this when pulling up to a roundabout/lights corner and i am breaking/shifting down. Sometimes the revs will just drop lower than it should and it will die on me. When this starts to happen (usually after the car warms up it'll happen every now and then) the idle will become a little rougher ...aac valve sound like the problem? ill be taking it to a proper workshop soon i think, the last dickhead to touch my car charged me an arm and a leg for a major service and this problem still occurs

the wheels look really good on a white skyline looks great.. except for that nizmo sticker!

will this work on an sr20det? i havent had a look but my friend has an s14a and was just wondering

Pretty sure the timing was fine, it runs well. Im getting a new timing belt fitted next week, guess ill ask if the timing is ok though just to double check.

thanks for the ideas, i was going to purchase 3" exhaust system w/ hiflow cat sometime between now and the end of the year. Ill have to get under and take a close look.

While i'll admit im no skyline veteran, it does seem that my car is popping more than it should be. I thought it was common for rbs to pop a little but it seems far too often. For starters heres what ive got: 1996 s2 skyline gtst Mods- apexi power intake So as you can see, its pretty much stock. Ive noticed quite a bit of backfire/popping when i ease off the accelerator but thought it would clear up after a service. Well ive just had the coils checked, new ngk iridium plugs put in, new fuel filter as well as an oil change and injector clean. The backfire/popping is still pretty common though. The fuel im using is shell vpower (98ron). As far as the pod is concerned, it was popping even before i put it on so i cant isolate the problem to the pod making it run rich or whatever. I had a read through the search function but couldnt find anything specific, any ideas?

http://www.justjap.com/gatesbeltkit.htm KIT CONTENTS Gates Racing Silicon Timing Belt Genuine NSK Idler Bearing Genuine NSK Adjuster Bearing Camshaft Seals (2 Pcs) Crankshaft Seal (1 Pcs) im in the northern suburbs, where is re customs? My guy is like a family friend and wants to charge about 300 labor if i get the belt myself edit: oh springvale, yeah out of the way for me.

So my mechanic is dead set on his supplier charging 600-700 for a gates timing belt kit (rb25det) which i think is retarded given that justjap.com sells the exact same thing for 349. Should i just order online and get it fitted rather than paying that ridiculous mark-up?

melbourne