Rezlo

Guys, I see the S14 part number interchanges with the R33 GTS-T for the tomei pumps, How much of a difference is there between the tomei GTS-T pump and the GTR pump (both R33)? Easy interchange? could do with the added flow, Thanks

Ive got a jun pump drive ready for install, I also have a tomei oil restrictor ready for the rebuild, Ive currently got my shift light coming on at 7k, shifting at 7200 to 7500 some times 7700 if i dont catch it in time, set the redline up to 8200 so I dont touch it (not a fan of fuel cut at full boost) At the moment it pulls pretty linear from 6000 up to 7500, I dont feel much drop off at all, If I shift under 6500 it knocks the wind out of it, usualy pretty badly. My peeve with the setup is that its a touch violent coming into boost, I want to smooth it out especialy in 1st and 2nd to help with traction, and being able to run it up to 8000rpm in 1st and 2nd would help quite a bit, as our tracks arnt that great and you have to work at keeping it tractible even with 275 wide M/T's.

Thanks, I try to keep it looking as clean as I can. GT3076R seems to work well with the RB25, but the meth inj made one of the best improvments to my car, I use a devils own progressive kit with #15 nozzel running a 50/50mix, Ive been up to 1.5bar on the streets with 95pump fuel with zero detonation, though only for short bursts as I want to keep the motor together till its time for the build. Any Idea what the poncams will do spool up and top end wise with my setup? Ill probably go with the tomei springs at the same time, just worried about the added spring presure on the hydro lifters at higher RPM. Anything else anyone can coment on internal wise ontop of my list above?

Wheel dyno, It is a .82 with the 4bolt GT outlet, I run quite a bit of timing to, meth works quite well for that, http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/silvia.htm that was it a few months ago before the new intake and charge pipes, last video clip is of the current setup, Just had a drag event on sunday, trapping at 209kph at a rather slow 12flat due to some traction issues im working on,

My car is not a track car, its an everyday car which i use maybe once a month at the local drag strip or race track, Currently making 352kw at 1.3bar with: Stock internaled RB Greddy intake mani 76mm charge pipes GT3076R Tial 38mm gate PFC 740cc Meth injection and the other usual things like pump, ectr, To be done end of year: 8.5-1 forgies eagle rods ARP head studs ACL race bearings and gaskets tomei oil restrictor external oil return N1 pumps pump collar ectr, Only thing I havent worked out is a good street reliable head combo, I definatly want to go with the poncams for a nice easy to drive setup, but not sure what other tried and tested parts you guys use with the hydro lifters.

What cams and springs are you using? also what turbo? Im just running out of gear coming into 2 corners at my local track, and a few hundred extra RPM would go a long way, currently a stock RB25 s1 with a GT3076R and loads of supporting mods running 1.4bar, going to be building the motor at the end of the year so trying to get all the parts planned out and on my shelf by then.

My whole motor has 15 000km's on it, so hopefully my guides ectr are still mint, with a set of poncams and springs fitted, at what sort of RPM can I expect the lifters to let me down? It will only be needing to go over 8000rpm for maybe 1 or 2 seconds at a time, not very often at that.

RB25DET S1 with a GT35R With N1 oil pump, eagle rods and CP pistons whats a fairly safe rev limit on the stock head? Also if I run the Tomei poncam's with that turbo, what are my realistic gains? who would it effect my red line on the stock valve springs? or is it worth at that stage going with a slightly stiffer set? I need to get about 8500rpm out of the engine in 2nd and 3rd to make best use of the local track, Thanks

http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Toys/Silvia/Kil...%20in%20S14.wmv Little while ago against a S13 running 1.1bar with a GT28RS, I run a GT30/40 on a stock internaled RB25det sqeezed into an S14, run was done at .85bar, ran an 11.92 the next day. Set up is now running 1.45bar with meth injection, launch control ectr still on the stock engine. Hope to do an 11.5 before I do the rebuild in Dec

Pulled the maf cover off, checked for dry solders, apeared fine, gave it another clean although it was already spotless, then pulled the wiring apart, some how in my mega well wrapped up loom i managed to get some moisture in there, i pulled it right back and made sure the maf wires were wrapped, where they were joined i cafully put silicon inside heat shrink and shrunk it down to make a perfectly dry seal. End result, car drives better than it ever has before, it must have been effecting the ground because the voltage is lower than it was and is 100times more stable. thanks for info guys, glad it was a cheap fix, ordered a spare maf just incase.

Its not surge, does it even more at lower voltages, particualy around 2 to 3V, Intake pipe is pretty long, see attached pics, I think i must get a spare afm and take this one apart and check for dry joints, everything else seems to be perfect. Ive got a video of the afm voltage moving around but its in this nokia format, will post it when I figure out how to convert it, also when displaying it as a graph it actualy forms a thick line because its bouncing up and down, thinking of putting a tiny 0.1UF Cap in there to try smooth it out a bit, maybe a second ground off the ground wire right near the maf to the body to help keep it grounded correctly as well.

Im noticing my voltage from the AFM tends to move around a lot, not like noise, say for instance im doing 80kph in 4th and the voltage is 2.200v on my PFC hand controler, if I keep the car 100% steady i see the value jumps semi erraticaly up and down by about .2v. Ive also noticed this AFM seems to be maxing a bit fast, I had a Z32 on previously and it ran fine up to 1.2 to 1.3bar with my GT30/40 but the Q45 at 1.4bar is up at 5V already, Ive cleaned it, cleaned the filter, checked for leaks, all that is good, got a feeling it could be a dud AFM, is this a comon way they fail or start going bad? I did notice its got a little bit of a darker round mark on the actual sensor tab bit, not sure if its like that from new or if maybe my sensor has seen better days, any feed back would be awsome. Many thanks

problem solved, my wideband LSU4 sensor is going bad, started taking fuel out of it and it got better and better, taken 15% away from the injector map and its cleared up PERFECTLY, WB still reads 11-1 under boost...

Just got it off the dyno, 352wkw and 482nm @6987rpm (both still climbing) power and tq were just rocketing up, he wouldnt take it into that power surge into the 7000rpm range, Will regap them tonight and see if i can tell a diff.

kinda seems like the opposite, like its to tight. Im going to go over all the grounds and yank the plugs and check them, and go up in gap and see, im not blowing out spark up top so im going to go up in gap till i just start to blow spark out at high boost & RPM and see if that sorts out mid range, Im thinking that maybe the top end is right and everything else is a bit off key due to a to tight plug gap. Anyone else willing to share their plug gap running split fires at 1.4 to 1.5bar on heat range 7's?

The power increase comes in at between 6800-6900rpm and holds right threw to 7500rpm red line in any gear at WOT in high boost, it repeats its power increase every time i go up towards red line. Plugs are about 4000km old. Finding a good dyno in South Africa is a challange!!!

Bit of back round. RB25DET S1 perfect compression stock internals progressive water/Meth injection 750's Walbro pump (will get changed to an external 044 bosch with surge tank in the next 3 months) Nismo regulator PFC w/datalogit Wide band greddy intake mani Q45 maf Q45 TB splitfire coils range 7 NGK iridiums GT3076R Plenty of supporting mods and so on, All installed in a pretty light S14 At low boost .9 bar it runs loverly, very linear power up to 7500rpm, just a slight stumble at low cruizing speeds even with a perfect AF and timing (changes dont realy make a difference) at high boost its goes up to 1.5bar nice and fast (before 4500rpm) and pulls well and clean, but when I get to 6800 to 6900rpm it takes off to 7500rpm almost like its got a 150shot of nitrous, Boost stays stable and my AF is remains at 11-1 stable, timing also doesnt change much at all at that RPM to make such a prominent power change, I am seeing FC datalogit knock figures of 11 to 14 (ahh i love Meth injection) and nothing changes there, no other noticible log changes happen, everything looks 100% normal on the ECU, just a massive leap in actual power. Im thinking that maybe my plugs are gapped a tiny bit to tight, but would like to know if you guys have ever had somthing like this? happen? Car is also has a bit of a crapy idle, if i recall right my plugs are gapped at around .68 to .7mm which i know is tight, but my previous coils were going belly up so i kept them tight and didnt bother re-gapping when i put the splitfires in. What you guys recon?

I use them, Used them in my SR20, use them in my RB, I have ran their 550's in my RB25DET, then went up to 810's right from stock to 500whp it runs now, they work absolutley perfectly, I was so impressed with them that ive become a dealer for them in South Africa, probably sold 100+ sets not without a single problem. And the thing about a tuner claiming it was an injector, its always easy to blame somthing else, things like that happen alot here, when i sold RC injectors i had 2 people claim it was the injectors that caused drama, after flow benching them it was prooven not to be, so be careful when you read "horror stories" mechanics love to blame problems and items the not familiar with.

Why you guys paying so much? Ive braught in 4 or 5 sets from the US to South Africa, i pay on average $150US for MAF and TB and about $30-50 for express air mail.

I managed to get a Q45 MAF and Throttle body for my RB25/greddy manifold, Anyone know how much of a challange it is to set up a PFC for the Q's maf and TPS sensitivity?