Rezlo

just set a Nismo twin plate in RB25 S1, When I pull away I notice it has a mechanical whirring sound, not a clatter like normal twin or tripples, I know i made 100% sure it was all put together right, Anyone else had this? or is it a normal sound for these cluches?

I have probably sold about 400 SR20, CA18, RB China manifolds over the last 4-5 years, only 6 of them have cracked, 2 of the guys didnt have flex pipes, 4 were using wrap. Good internal and external ceramic coating works just as well as wrap to keep the bay cool, and looks better.

This is a 3" system I did for a S14 RB25, Car ran low 11's pretty easy with or without the system, without it (just a small turn down off the fairly short down pipe) it picked up about .03 seconds, probably due to the weight reduction more than power.. Whole aim was to keep it as stock looking and quiet as possible (cops here SUCK!), car at idle and even mid RPM/throttle was barely louder than a Mk5 Golf GTi, sure makes it fun to supprise people on the street. Sure is a pitty we dont get 3.5" in South Africa though, only 3" and next step is 4" which is WAY overkill.

I use side in center out magnaflow rear silencers (straight threw pref tube) at the rear and get a regular 304 twin 3" stainless tip and convert it to run 3.5"... Makes the system nice and quiet, doesnt restrict power and doesnt draw the cops (serious problem here in South Africa) With a side in center out you can get away with using 1.5 90' bends for the full system, above was a 3" system I did for a S13 to shut it up with a 330wkw SR20, its a bad example because its got a lot bends but it gives you the idea

I run .8bar low boost in which case the W/M doesnt come on at all, as soon as I go into high boost it kicks in, so a simple flick of the Profec B gives me my 2 power curves. I can run about 20-30 runs down the track on about 500 to 750ml fluid when im realy pushing it and I use a #15 nozzel as our 95 unleaded here in South Africa SUX!!! for street I use about 3L of w/m mix per 400km = one tank of fuel, but i do drive like a bit of a terror! W/M on its own wont give you power, added timing will give you a little more power (well actualy a whole lot, i run 24degrees advance at 1.5bar on a GT3076R .82 on a stock internaled RB25DET) , but the biggest power added will be the ability to run more boost. cheers

I am pretty sure it was rigged, though I do agree that the HKS filter lets LOADS of dust threw, the Apexi's flow rate is pathetic. We did a pannel of testing in out motorsport devision (I work for a major OEM) with the majority of the filters out there on test. While the Apexi did filter out dust well, it also had one of the worst flow rates and clogged the fastest (not a very good thing when you live in a dusty climate like South Africa), after watching all the testing there is only one filter I would use on the street, AEM dryflow. Simple outcome was that: Oiled filters only become good at filtering once they are a bit dirty at which stage they start to flow less. Foam filters flow well but dont filter well at all Stainless mesh = big no no Paper/dry filters, best flow vs. filtration from clean till dirty, they also dont require cleaning nearly as often as oiled filters. Just my 2c.

I run a Devils Own kit on my S14 RB25DET @350wkw, I also run it on about 15 SR20's I have built all well over 300wkw, all of them run on 95 pump fuel, all of them use the progressive kit. http://www.alcohol-injection.com/ Now about 3-4 years since using them and with a total of around 100 kits sold I have yet to have one person have a faliure. The best money one can spend on a performance car if you ask me, I even run direct port water/meth on my Datsun A15 racing engine that runs 14-1 comp

Hi guys, I know what pin the air temp sensor goes to on the ecu, but just wondering about its power? it is tapping into the 5v sourse used my the Throttle possition? cant seem to find a full wiring diagram fora R33, only ecu pin outs, tried searching but only found ecu pin outs. Cheers

You dont need that much power to make a SX fast, I ran my S14 in the mid 11's for a whole year on a stock internaled RB25 with a GT3076R at 1.2bar,,,, mid 11 with a 2second 60ft (its not a proper drag track, and using 17" Street ET's and track coil overs) trapping at 210kph odd Now with a GT35 and some forged bits + better traction its a bullet and still on a decent budget N1 pump is 100% fine as long as you have a crank collar, if your going to spend more, rather go drysump

S14 SR20DET injector seals work, and the stock GTS-T injector seals work, the sealing section on the top feeds is the same diameter as side feeds, no need for anything fancy

My 2c, I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

Stuff helicoil, try cracked oil galley, or better yet, trying to line bore 1/2 ally 1/2 iron mains. I would never use any aftermarket main on a SR20 again, I have about 30-40 SR20's pushing over 300wkw on stock main bolts, never had a problem. RB's on the other hand use rather dinkey mains :-) Must admit, im still very fond of my SR20's, somthing about a nice 276 HKS cam set, nice ported head, strong bottom end, good managment and a GT3076R .86 running 1.8bar makes for a very fun ride!

While im waiting for a reply, anyone else?

60ft-tq, crank turns smooth like silk,,, thank goodness its not like the SR20's!!! ive given up using SR20 ARP mains! only tomei

Its for a 25DET The studs are 1.5 pitch into the block, and the nut is 1.25 pitch, 10mm They appear to be 190 000psi, the 3 slightly longer ones are identical to my Datsun A15 head studs! which call for 60ft/tq on the ARP spec sheet the only 190psi 10mm stud they list is 60ft-tq, the 170/180kpsi require 42ft/tq which is right on 56nm, very close to the stock spec!

You should try those rolled up sanding roles, those give a very nice finnish, when I worked in the US they were very cheap, not sure about Ausi, but im sure they cant be to bad, once you got everything to shape just tear back about 20mm and use it to smooth all the material to the same finnish, And yeah, pictures never do porting any good!

Wow that head has either seen some nice broken piston, or serious contamination, I suggest you try pick out any parts you can before you have it skimmed, they form hot spots and detonate very easy if they come loose after skimming. Also you need to match the ports, you can see all the visible intake ports are all different in shape at some point, what I find works well is P80 sanding roles to give a nice finnish and even tone and stop fuel walk on the walls, leaves you with a finnish like so http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Cars/Misc%20pic...i%20(Small).JPG Good luck, looking like a good start!

sorry, double

Problem is that im in South Africa, getting seats shipped is MEGA expencive, for me the street legal part isnt a problem, as long as its legal on the track, but yeah i use my car often so i need somthing thats not to 90deg Guess ill have to fly up and go try a few seats...

Hi guys, Getting some mixed up torque specs for ARP main studs in RB25's and RB26's, obviously ARP's guide lines are MUCH tighter than the regular fairly low torque RB mains. Can any of you guys confirm specs on the ARP main stud torque? or maybe give the specs for the tomei studs just for interest sakes? Thanks

They probably havent deleted their listing yet, I highly doubt they will have one or have access to one. Another option is to use a GTR unit and change the few things needed to suite, Im using a D-Jetro RB26 PFC in my current RB25 build.

Looking for an RB26 resistor pack please, email me if you have one. Thanks

Hey guys, I need to import a seat for my GTS that will be used for track fun days, a bit of solox and some street usage, ive got it down to 2 seats that will be legal for usage in the racing I want to use it in, the sparco evo 2 L or the Cobra Suzuka, Has any one here used either of these seats for street usage as well as track? the sparco looks to have a slightly more suitable back possition for street but I would like to hear some opinions on using either of these fixed back's on the street, unfortunatly reclining is out of the question as far as the rules go. Thanks

lol, opps, was busy searching, never realised it was so old,

Talking about ratio's, Im running a RB25DET S1 in my euro spec S14, im running the traps in 3rd at 210kph, about 8000rpm, http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Cars/Cars.htm <- top left, 11.6 is my fastest run, still in 3rd.