Rezlo

Because it comes on for a second then goes off, and does not repeat itself, I drive 80 miles a day, its done it 4 times now over the last few days, I cant keep it in that screen and wait for that 1second flash and try read that tiny screen before it goes out. All the sensors check 100% when I monitor them normaly in the SW check screen.

Hi guys, RB25DET S1 into an S14 with a PowerFC, been running fine for a year, just recently ive been having slight missfire problems at lower rpm, I see in the last 3 days my check light has been coming on for about a second or two then going off normaly at about 3000rpm wot, all of my normal trip sensors (maf, knock, inj % ) are still quite a bit under their threashold, as well as this going on for longer than those warnings, Now i remember when I used my blazt consult thingi a while back it didnt work (probably got one of the pins mixed when I did the M63 wiring re-pin, just wondering how to go around working out what is tripping it temporarily? with the PFC still have the consult features? or will FC-Edit be able to pick up error codes? Thanks for your time.

I have just got one of the new AEM Dryflow paper pod filters for my RB25, Looks A+ in quality and its just the right size for the Q45 MAF, look forward to testing it VS the K&N I have on now.

Besides testing ohm's between + and - on the coils, what other testing specs are there on the ignitor and coil packs? want to get to the bottom of this problem, did a search but all i found was people wrapping them up.

Thanks Mafia, Just want to try the "optimized" setting before I go and pull the splitfires out and put the stockers back in to rule them out as possible cause of faliure. Ill do a search for the voltages/pins to check for voltage drop as well while im at it.

It could be this that agrivates it, but I think it could be my splitfires failing, I only noticed it start doing the miss about 2 weeks after fitting a gizmo launch controler, which I have now removed and it still runs with a slight miss. I am going to try stock coil packs out of another S1 I have tonight and see if there is any change.

Realy? never tried cleaning it, it always comes right after hitting 3rd gear when i use my launch control, My WB sensors seem to last quite a while before they go lazy, but it seems that the dye in the meth I use causes more of the problem than the rarely used launch control.

Also remember if an O2 gets to rich it displays as lean. as you can see on cars with launch control and some anti lag systems that dump fuel out, the gauge reads lean, when in fact its covered with raw fuel.

Hi guys, Real quick one, I presume the PFC reads the two wire ECU water temp sensor correct? I see in sensorcheck its reads as a voltage and in display you can see the actual temp in deg, it looks correct but I seem to have symptoms of a faulty temp sensor where the car runs poorly getting to opperating temps, once at temp it runs spot on, Also, somone once posted optimised splitfire dwell settings when using the FC-edit, also for RB25DET S1, cant seem to find it when searching, anyone know what they are?

I have now gone over everything electrical, nothing has changed, i have fcked with every setting in the pfc, no change, full re-set on the pfc, no change. its amazing how my 1975 Datsun 1200 runs better.

Finaly got round to going over more, Fitted my tomei pump and ensured the correct 300kph at idle with no vac Lengthened the intake by almost half a meter and put in 2 90deg bends, no change, also tried with no filter, and a spare maf. Cleaned out the CAS that was nasty, still no change set TPS all over the place, no change, though i didnt notice the click? S1's click as well? Threw new plugs in with .85mm gap, yep, no change.... Pulled the fuel rail off the head, no leaks, no dribbles, all the testing all the bottles were evenly filled, Compression tested it, 155psi +/- 3 psi for all. I then sat long and hard and thought, I only realy noticed the slight miss after i fitted the gizzmo launch controler, I think it might be making problems, going to un-solder the wires and use 6 pin electrical connectors so i can remove and re-install it easy...

Also has anyone here used the AEM dryflow filters on their RB's? I was looking at the 3.5" Inlet, 9" long units, seem to be sized well for the Q45, Opinions please.

What air filters and adapters are you guys that run Q45 maf's using? I usualy run K&N's but with the width of the Q45 and an attempt to get the MAF further away from the turbo I need to find a shorter air filter, maybe somthing like the HKS units. Thanks

Fitted a Q45 maf onto a customers PFC controled SR20 S14 running a GT35R last night, for a little test, i made the AFM about 10cm away from the turbo, got some funny readings especialy when slowing down, then about 15cm away and it was perfect, 20cm away, same thing, 30cm, and the longest I could get it which was about 50cm away, and still no change from where it was fine at 15cm away, all backed up to log files with my fcedit. Ive taken my fuel pump out and stuck it in a customers car which packed out while I wait for my tomei pump, once fitted ill re-adjust everything, failing that ill change the TPS, and failing that im going to kill somthing :-) Will keep you updated, especialy guilt-toy with the same irritating problem, Cheers

I hear you, very valid point, but before i reworked my charge pipes it was far closer, and it didnt do it, now my filter is actualy on the splash guard, it can not go any longer, it is as long as it can be... unless I use a foam mushroom filter, but in SA that is not an option due to dust, also I have my RB in an S14, so i dont have as much space. I re-set my ecu and just plugged in the basic settings, its just noticible, but still there, I am going to extend the MAF right down with the filter off and check, What I dont understand is why it would only do it at a certain flow, mainly 2.1 to 2.3v below that its fine, above that its fine, one would think that if its turbulance or air distortion it would do it more at low or high flow, not somewhere inbetween? Either way ill give it a try Thanks for all the help so far guys!

This is what makes it interesting, My injectors are about 5000km old, I did how ever run a bottle of pretty serious cleaner threw them 2 tanks ago, no change, also checked their ohm's, all good. I also run water/meth, keeps the motor pretty shiney inside. Fuel pump is hard wired, Nismo regulator is set spot on 300kpa at idle w/hose disconected and 280 with it conected. I did try a different AFM, I can get it to do a slight miss even in neutral standing still, tried blocking the front of it this morning, also no change, I cant actualy move it further down, my filter hits the bottom of the fender well. I have done a compression test, checks out good. Next step is to remove my map and run a base map to see if I havent stuffed somthing up.

It runs right on 14.3 to 14.5, at light throttle when it happens. Ive richened it down to 13.2 and up to 15.5 (in small incremints obviously) with no change, today I went up a degree at a time 10 degrees in total, and back to norm, then down 10 degree's. Stuff all difference. Out of shear desperation I even changed the MAF to a BRAND NEW Q45 unit, still nada, TPS voltage looks smooth, grounding on the motor is all good, and my previous intake setup was near identical with no problems, and ive run hundreds of MAF'd SR20's with longer and shorter intakes with no change. This one has got be stummed, almost at that stage of saving my pfc map, initialising and doing some basic settings just to see if its not somthing else ive fubared, but honestly, it doesnt look that way. As ive said, 0-5% throttle its mint, and 10% + its mint, but just that TINY region its mucking about.

As I said, everything is set just right, A/F is spot on, even changed the WB o2 sensor, does it with o2 comp on and off, ive dropped the AF down a point, braught it back up a point, moved the timing down and up, nothing changes it. Anything from 15% throttle on to 350kw im making is 100% spot on, its only very light cruize that it does it, TPS was sitting on .850v when it was doing it,, due the the Q45 TB being JUST cracked open. Since setting the TPS up it cleared up perfectly, now a few days later is doing the same thing again, will look at it again tonight.

Adjusted my TPS yesterday, was at .450v, set it to .600, hesitation is near gone, I can just hear it, but cant feel it

I run a PLX wide band and my PFC gets the 1v output, wideband has had its LSU4 replaced in the last few weeks, no change, does it with the feedback turned off as well....

I might try fit my RB25 TPS back onto the Q45TB, or maybe try adjust it up a touch, it is rather irritating, must be a fix for it.

Yeah thanks, I know its been flogged, I spent a while searching, Lucky for me the tomei R33 and S14 pump numbers were the same! direct fit, I recon it will hold me for a bit before I go with an external pump system for the new motor Thanks anyways.

Looking for what the GTS-T guys are doing for street and drag use, Im currently running 6kg front and 4kg rear on 32way D2 coil overs, Still is to stiff for drag, Im thinking or running 4kg front and 2.5 or 3kg in the rear? just wondering what you guys are doing???

Good question, also does any one know what the spring rates are?

RB25DET S1, All the usuals: PFC Q45 MAF Q45 TB 750cc good pump at stock fuel press Splitfires ectr Start up is ok, could be a little smoother, WOT is perfect ectr ectr, My A/F's are spot on threw the whole map, timing is decent, Only thing that is irritating me is between 2000 and 3000rpm at light throttle loads, maybe 20% at about 2.2v Maf and about 35-40deg timing, zero knock, I get a very slight stutter, if i just tip in on the throttle its gone, and if i let off slightly its gone, Changed my BCPR7EIX to BCPR7ES coppers last weekend in a hope the EIX's were a touch fouled but no change gapped at .030" or .76mm. If I remember right my Q45 TPS shut voltage is about .5v, all other sensors are running smooth, no glitches or anything like that, only that one little stutter. Ive done the remove 2-3 deg of timing and add some timing, no change, ive also added some fuel and removed some, no change, maf is clean, all seems good. Any Ideas? Im a bit nervous going to a bigger plug gap because I run 1.4bar on my GT3076R with meth injection, but ive got a sneeky feeling they are a touch tight. Thanks guys!