Rezlo

Nope, never will, most effective place to have it,,,

Ive seen a few guys doing gates off the turbine housing, looks odd but works well. Just make sure its welded by a pro that knows about the materials hes using so it doesnt quench the housing.

Yeah, The 44mm tial gate had a pinched diafram from the factory... Not the first time I have seen this now, had a 38mm two weeks ago also with a pinched diaframe.

I agree with Beer Baron, Liz, unfortunatly if you had taken your car to him or not it still would have failed, on SR20's you can hardly hear when the big end's get to the point where they pull or slip, you can see a TINY drop in oil press but hardly noticable, as soon as you hear that sound its to late... Unfortunatly with the terrible lifter/rocker setup its also hard to tell the onset of a rod knock against all the noisy lifter setup common in SR20's. I have had many customers bring S13's and S14's to me for rebuilds to hold more power, even after initial test driving them and not noticing anything out of the normal you pull that bottom end out to find nicely nashed up bearings on the verge of letting go. Hope you come right.

both manifolds were custom, only major differences is one was single inlet and the T04z is running full twin scroll which is what I attribute most of the spool up gains from (also ran a 100mm dp with the T04 and only 76mm with the GT35 on the same exhaust) Only have one rickety ass dyno in this town, doesnt bother me though because all the tuning is done on street... For me running the motor in an S14 it made a MASSIVE difference in the drivability and tractability coming into boost,,, should have some video of both actualy, ill scratch it out and post it.

I ran a GT35 .82 then swapped to a twin scroll T04z with correct built manifold on my built RB25, in my car the T04z is more responsive than the GT35 and is also smoother coming into boost, I am now seeing .5bar up to 250rpm earlier than the GT35 and in boost the T04z is night and day compared... so much so that at 2bar I now drive in fear more than fun... even in low boost i FAR prefer the "fluid" feeling of the T04z compared to the on off switch GT35 which also shows its self in the added traction I now have in low boost at 1bar Not sure how people get these turbo's to be so "laggy"? maybe bad design manifolds or poor selected turbine housings?

If you take my map it will use my scaling automaticaly when you load it, not sure how high you plan to boost but I find these T04z's only come alive at 1.8bar+ I will email you my setup, its not far off what your running. Idle 14.7, cruise 14.4-14.7, over 1bar I run mid to high 11's, over 1.5bar around 11.2-11.3. I use regular 95 pump gas with water/meth injection so you will need to knock a lot of timing out of the 1bar+ area of the map as I run around 20deg even up over 1.5bar, if you dont youll melt your motor! so make sure your tunner knows this. I dont take any responsibility for you running the map in your car.

Ill mail you mine tonight, its off my old step still with the 750cc injectors, its drivability and power up to 1.7bar, just take note of the scaling though as mine is scaled to see 2.2bar as load point 20 not the 1.5 1.6 in the stock D-jetro scaling.

Craved, I am quite aware of how a bov works, as I said, lag between gears on the new SSQV was terrible compared to the RS, obviously the SSQV is prone to staying open longer or has slower/buffered piston movement than other name brand bov's. EVL-R33 This is exactly what I am talking about, the SR20 in question was running close to 28psi and had an actual delay when shifting, knocks all the power out for a second or two like the bov doesnt close properly of fast enough,,, rip SSQV out and put in Greddy RS and presto no more problem... just regular minimal lag one expects from an abov... has nothing to do with MAF either, all the cars I do now run VEMS or D-jetro. In my opinion besides sounding retarded and looking gimiky the SSQV is just an expencive POS. Greddy, Tial or Synapse any day of the week for actual function which is what its there for.

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag, I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

I dont see the point in spending over double on pauter or Carillo, ive used eagles that hold 600kw in SR20's and well over 1000hp in 2jz's, B series at over 500kw (highest hp rb ive done is only 800hp also on eagles :-(, granted its an every day street car )... in 99% of cases its usualy the pistons or oiling system that fail before the rods, if you got the money to burn why not, but if your on a budget like most people I see nothing wrong with chasing 1000hp on eagles, spend the extra on the oiling system....

1X screwdriver 1X person in car watching TPS voltage 2X Minutes working, drop it by .1v at a time, usualy its only SLIGHTLY higher than it should be. = corrected idle 99.99% of the time its the TPS voltage that is to high that makes the idle do that on the rb25 w/pfc.

Welcome to the wonderful world of PFC's terrible idle control, random doesnt even begin to explain it. What I find has the biggest effect on the idle when you have a PFC is the TPS sensor, you need to get it JUST right and it will idle spot on, also that you have the throttle stop set just right that its not having to use the AAC to compensate more than it has to. In your case if the VCT is kicking in its a sure sign the TPS voltage at idle is to high, dont change the map just set it down just a hair at a time till the problem resolves. With all my SR's and RB's im doing now im fitting VEMS managment, I got the last car i did to idle without any AAC better with the the VEMS than my car ever has with the PFC, though I must admit I find the idle on the D-jetro system better than L-jetro.

Mine, They dumb here in SA, they require the catch can to be the same capacity of your engine or 50% of your oil volume (which ever is higher) for what I use the car for.

It runs 2 map sensors because ITB cars vacuum per runner after throttle plate are never quite the same no matter how well ballanced they are, this way it takes an average between the two... Fit both sensors off 2 nipples near the center of the manifold, if your using a greddy manifold put it where the the rest of the nipples are, remember to keep the map hoses as short as possible. Put the IAT sensor behind the throttle towards runner one like you see the GTR's doing it, if you want pictures of how to do it email me.

No, its the Garrett version, I cant see paying near double the price for 100-200rpm worth while, rather spend that money in more usefull places. I think the biggest thing with a T04z is if you want it to run nice on the street is to use a well design twin scroll manifold and use a smaller A/R turbine, I find it far easier to drive because it rolls into boost much smoother than the GT35, top end responce on the track now is also night and day, I chopped off 2 seconds around our 1.20ish track swapping to the T04z, on the street you can feel it powering up at 3000rpm by 3500rpm its at 7psi and by 4000rpm its on fire, suits my driving style perfectly.

Yeah its set up to boost higher as speed increases, the boost controler was one of the best traction devices I ever purchased :-) , got the combo in an S14 so the power to weight is pretty high for a street car... The T04z on the other hand is pure love! in 2nd shes all in at 4200rpm and 3rd shes at 28psi by 4000rpm giving it a very strong 4000rpm long powerband. Far more pleasant/easier drive than when it was fitted with the GT35 .82,,, now just to pull off an AWD conversion.

In my RB25 /T04z twin scroll w/ 100mm run offs to 50mm synchronic I run it like so: Stiffest preload spring A&B joined to my EVC6 C- boost This gives me 13psi low boost and it is dead stable till 27psi, youll find that you have to run the offset right down, so you could in essence just use B for your boost controler or A depending on how much "gain" you want to run on the solonoid/stepper. Fantastic WG, I use teflon lines with quick couplings so switching it around as I want is cake... but where it is now is perfect, 2nd gear is easy to hold straight at 13psi and as im into 3rd the evc gives me 19psi and 4th and 5th are 25 to 27psi.

Or you could take 5 minutes looking at the all 3 wires to change in the wiring diagrams and do it yourself, nothing inside needs to be changed. MSD timing window for $80 will run the vct at any rpm point your heart desires at a touch of a button. H2K, you still have that link of the system i showed you that can convert the signals? cant for the life of me remember its name? Bit pricey but looked very good

Anyone know if at idle the idle switch makes or brakes contact (presume its just a grounded signal)?, ive used a few GTR D-jetro's on RB25's now with just TPS without major idle problems besides on 10 minute heat soak starts it idles to low and tries to stall, might try hook up a micro switch off the the throttle cam to opperate the idle switch function.

awsome, thanks

Hi guys, i dont seem to have any old cam seals (front) laying around here, dont feel like waiting while I import a set (RB's not sold in South Africa) can anyone give me an aftermarket part number like for NTK or any other aftermarket bearing/seal company or maybe the dimensions? dont feel like having to take the car off the road while i take the one thats leaking in for a sample. All RB DOHC use the same cam seals. As a note to people using ACL race gasket kits, the cam seals feel quite loose, though cam seal leaks seem fairly common on RB's after doing some searching. Thanks

+1 Never had one fail, super easy to read day and night and is very compact, Another very good one on the market is the AEM, im selling them around $100us cheaper than the innovate or PLX, sure there must be somone in Ausi selling them? VEMS is also pretty good, not sure if you guys have VEMS agents there though, currently the AEM is slightly cheaper though.

Just so happens i have about 10 Q45's laying around from cars ive changed to D-jetro. It works perfectly, I have done it without a center pipe before and it always picked up a cruize hesitation and usualy a .2 to .3v movement @80 - 120kph in the afm voltage from the air hitting the filter (which you can realy feel in an SR20), i now have thin, clean and smooth line when I use the oscilloscope. The center tube runs the length of the lower outer section, which means i have roughly 100mm of tube before and after the sensor itself to help the air smooth out slightly to stop turbo and air filter interference. All i did to get it going nice was to rescale the AFM (over 35% at higher flow rates), still need to do a full tune obviously to see full benefit due to the added boost I can now run.

So after my S14 RB25 maxing out a Q45 then Z32 i eventualy swapped the pfc to a R33 GTR D-jetro PFC,, that solved my problem,,, My S13 has a MAF PFC as well and was maxing the Q45 at 1.3bar with the GT35... so i tried something a little different before ditching that for a D-jetro. 100mm intake with hacked Q45... 64mm center tube the sensor sits in to prevent turbulance that plauges these things Finnished... well almost, still needs to be polished and to epoxy the sensor into place... Now at 1.6bar im only at 4.6volts, should be able to get to my boost target now by 5volts, even better than this is that there is no usual part throttle surge or voltage movement which usualy happens. Just a cheap upgrade option for those guys maxing MAF's