Rezlo

Just awaiting shipping prices reZlo

Wow a lot more response than I thought, I can see there is a lot of banter about N1, I agree any pump will fail due to serious abuse, but how often do you hear of any Greddy, Jun, Tomei, Nismo etc pumps just randomly failing even when not abused? Before I rebuilt the RB25 it had 6 times more abuse at similar and higher RPM than this N1 and the stock pump held just fine even with the crap 1/4 depth pump drive. I am surprised no one has commented on the Nismo pump considering it is in the middle of the price range. I am thinking about doing some testing on the materials used in as many of the pumps I can fidn, does anyone have any old parts of inner and/or outer ring's they would like to mail me (only need 10-15mm of each each), get a good profile of all the different pumps?

Ive got the last one :-) PM sent

I dont have a problem going for dry sump besides space, I am really limited, but a close second is that I dont feel with mediocure power I need to resort to dry sump and all the aditional plubing. I am an engineer by trade, I have a few stock RB pumps here, I will do some material testing on the remains of the N1 next week as well as compare it to stock. Thinking about giving the Nitto a try, And yes, I do have a crank collar installed.

Ok, Greddy is available right now , Jun is $200us more available 2 weeks leed time Nismo $100 more than Jun in stock Tomei $400 more Nismo 3 week wait. I think the toss up will be nismo and Jun though i havent heard much bad about greddy?

I felt the same way till yesterday, unfortunatly oil pumps dont just grenade for no reason, 95% of the time you hear people bitching about oil pumps its always the N1. With a T04z usualy wound well past 2bar I highly doubt it is a "build" problem that caused the pump to break, not after 20+km's... Tomei for the money I would go drysump, Jun is 95% out of stock, but ill try find one.

My fun from yesterday in my S14 RB25, turned the T04z down to 1.8bar (had my full "legal" 76mm exhaust on) left the 285 street's on the rear and did a awsome track day with some pretty quick cars, managed an average lap time that really surprised and all was good till about 20 seconds after the video camera stopped recording on the cool down lap,,, as I went around the back of the track in a lower gear letting her cool down the oil idiot light came on and I heard the lifters drain, shut her off right away and freewheeled it back into the pits, Let her stand for 10 mins, checked oil right on the full mark, catch tank with the usual 100-150ml from that amount of laps all looked fine, cranked her over with no plugs, stuff all oil pressure... towed it home, drained the oil, thankfully its perfectly clean, not a single sparkle let alone chunk... Cut the K&N open, perfectly clean inside... I have all the "smart" things done like Greddy 13 row oil cooler, 6.5L active oil pan, tomei oil pump drive, oil restrictors, bored oil returns etc etc,,, the only weakness is that I have an N1 oil pump, I have had it for 2-3 years (before it became public known fact they were crap) and the motor has covered a good 25 000km's. I usualy run her to 7800-8000rpm when racing but on the day in all my excitement testing out the new spring rates I ran her to 8300 twice, once just clippling the limiter (Pfc D-jetro)... Going to be interesting to see what this oil pump looks like, hopefully I can get away with just polishing the crank journals and not cutting it considering actual run time was only a few seconds with no oil pressure. Now the question comes, Stock oil pump? N1? NOT an option Greddy? Tomei? Honestly, Tomei is out of my budget, how do you guys rate the Greddy oil pumps? I can just afford that, or maybe one of these new Nitto pumps? I would run drysump but honestly my engine bay is just jamm packed already and for my 700ish HP I dont feed it is realy "an only option"

Thinking of a GT35 twin scroll for a new project im working on, aim would be 550-580whp so maybe I can squeeze it, T04z would be a touch violent for a 600kg car.

I wasnt asking how long a piece of sting is, I was asking which is the longest The GT35 isnt/wasnt for me, I know that, I ripped it off and went T04z, just wondering what the highest figures are guys pull out of the medium A/R GT35's... Heard rumours of some very high HP GT35's running around... just wondering what the "norm" power at 30+psi is you guys expect,

Just for interest sakes, what is the most amount of power one of you guys has got out of a GT35 .82 T3 flange? regardless of motor setup.

I presume your from RSA, why dont you run DevilsOwn kits like most of us do?

They must have changed the sensors, my last five or six D-jetro's are all scaled to read to 2bar gauge pressure and they will all run only to load cell 20 when over 1.9bar.

As I was saying earlier in this post, dyno's here suck,,, Anything over 6000rpm even at only 1.7bar and set to boost up as slow as possible the sx roasted its 285's... made 428kw at 6100rpm with the T04z, Going to be going up country in the next few weeks to use a hub dyno and do a run at a semi decent drag strip so I can try convert the 210kph trap speeds into somthing decent ET wise.

I have run supertech in a few SR20's and sold a few sets to RB owners without any problems.

Ditto! If you want erratic timing fit an Autronic!

Getting rid of the rubbish Nissan AFM's is all the reason in the world...

D-jetro onto RB25 is super easy, 2 wires on the plug get changed, you do the MAP and IAT wires (again super easy) and a $80 MSD controler for the VCT Took me all of 30 minutes to get the R33 GTR D-jetro ecu working on my R33 GTS-T, Just to rock the boat, with me having mapped both cars I get better responce, better drivability and better fuel consumption from the D-jetro! for the price, ease of mapping and hand controler for monitoring Knock ectr I still prefer the PFC over the other brands... though all the race cars i do either use autronics or haltech's

One of the reasons I dont open my own shop :-) modding cars is much nicer as a hobby than a living... got 4 350kw+ sr20's done in the last 12 months all GT35 ha ha that excludes some non nissan projects.

Did you see the dyno I posted? only a few off 400wkw... 400wkw is not hard on a GT35... 1/4 of it is in the turbo, 3/4 of it is in the setup of the motor and the mapping. unique1, What AR is your HKS T04z's turbine? Does your HKS have the turbine split right to the blade or stop half to 3/4 way? Seen both now.... And full boost by 4300rpm isnt bad for a incorectly working setup! My biggest improvment to my car was when I took the time to get the timing and fuel 100% perfect between 3000-4000rpm so the transision was smooth and progresive

It was not ment to be an insult, dont take it that way. All the cars I mention are cars I built in my spare time from home(I am a design engineer not a oil change jokey), unfortunatly we do not have dyno's here that are safe for cars over 300wkw, I have already almost lost a car due to this, all of my tuning/mapping (everything from my carb'd car to the 1200hp M3 ive just finnished) are all done on the street with dual wideband, Kmon & EGT so unfortunatly as much as I would love to give you a dyno plot I do not have the need to drive 1000miles to the closest hub dyno... Just for interest sakes, was the T04z car you went in full twin scroll and what A/R turbine was it?

Again, once you have some personal experience with the T04z then it would be wise to try compare it. I have owned both, I have used both on the same vehicle and I am saying when properly setup in full twin scroll it spools faster... This is actual experience vs. google -> search.... I would think you as a E-modder should know best that what turbo's do on paper is often not what they actualy do in practice (IE the GT35's even with .86 a/r's making over 600hp)

Nope, never bothered to put my car on a dyno since the T04z, but, better than a dyno is video proof of the car pushing 2bar by 4300rpm, better yet is actualy having experienced both not just looking at plots on paper that have more veribles than are worth trying to calculate.

That dyno is a customer of mine. Basic RB25 build with some mild porting, CNC blended combustion chamber, greddy intake mani, hand build exhaust mani ectr... its in a S13 I ran the identical combo in my S14 (besides the CNC blended chamber) and when I upgraded to the T04z twin scroll (I sold my GT35 to him) it was a massive change, the car is more responsive, more mid range and faster spooling and at 2 bar its more fear than fun (it is still loosing traction at over 140mph on 285's at only 1.8bar - )There is nothing wrong with the GT35, its a great all round turbo thats easy to get good numbers out of, that said if you take the time and run the right manifold setup on a T04z it is a fantastic turbo.... Having owned and driven both turbo's on the same car, same managment, identical motor ectr what would i built my car again? T04z again,,, all day every day. That seems to be the general outlook, the guys that run T04z's on GOOD setups love them, the guys that talk shit about them most likely have never been in a properly setup T04z, that or they try to defend their purchase of a GT35 and aim for a lower power rating. So again, I like the GT35 (especialy on SR20's and 4G63's)but I think results in a T04z all come down to setting it up right and when setup right it will outshine the GT35.

From my side of the world GT35 .82 on RB25 with poncams KW at wheels. Car has run an 11.3 @ 129mph on an unprepared track.

It wouldnt boost,,, if it did maybe 1-2psi...