Rezlo

Garrett T04z,

My baby half way threw its new turbo swap, ohh its S14 RB

All depends on how it gets tuned, I have got better fuel economy out of a SR20 with a T04z running RC 1200cc injectors than it got when the car was stock, was using a well tuned D-jetro PFC. (obviously it will go down the drain when you nail it) car got 630km out of 55L when I drove it to deliver it to a customer. My RB gets about 380 to a tank but i drive it fairly hard, running 750's also with a T04z,,,

What ID steam pipe is it? is it T3 or T4, if T4 is it big or small flange? still for sale? Willing to ship international? Wont work for me because I run twin scroll but I might have a building coming up soon...

You need to sync the two, best to watch the hand controller and move the CAS till the crank gives the same reading, I usualy lock the timing to 20deg and get it spot spot on with the cas, then start tuning, If you car has been tunned remember if you set the cas back 5deg to match the PFC's figures your whole map will be 5 degrees down.

The Nissan US quest minivans (same as the oldsmobile) uses a 110amp (also get 125amp), I stuck that on for my S14RB for all the added voltage load from the dual 20a radiator fans, meth, fuel pump ectr. Cost me $160us for a full recon one shipped from the US to africa, like so: Link

Have you put a tach adapter in? I6 signal with I4 tach = 1.5 times higher reading... I use a dakota digital adapter in my RB S14, works like a charm, S13 you can modify the cluster to rear correct though for $80us I would just get a dakota adapter.

A lot of SR20's also get this problem from sleeve cavitation when you run over 400wkw on the stock sleeves, the oil galley on the right side of the motor cracks right under the cooling jacket and slowely dribbles oil into the coolant but not the other way round, I would imagine this is quite a hard thing to do on a RB though with the aluminum vs. cast iron,,, also most leaks are almost imposible to test for when the block is cold, you actualy need them to heat it up past 90 in an oil bath or somthing. We landed up tapping every oil port and blocking it besides one and submerged the whole block in the oil bath and pushed 9 bar of air into the open port before we could see the bubbles, not sure how else you could do it? You MIGHT be able to see it if you magnaflux the block, or if you find somone to xray it, might be cheaper than the above and most BIG Diesel shops have the ability to magnaflux or xray now days.

Yeah it was an aftermarket top mount with 38mm tial, could happily run .8bar, but even with .8 it hit had with the Profec b set to zero everything low boost it would hit hard and would try to come in very fast around a track, then again my "coming in hard" could be different to your coming in hard, I stuck that turbo on an SR20 and it was a joy, came in beautifuly! even ran faster than me at the same boost :-(

I wish mine was like that, I would get to 3300rpm odd and BANG 1.5bar, tire smoke and drama, probably why I only managed an 11.6 with that turbo, the pull away was a nightmare almost always a 2.1 or 2.2 60ft. I think with the weight of your R33 vs my S14 also would make it a lot more noticible for me, I am now doing 1.8's and 1.9's with the GT35, high 10 here we come.

I ran a GT3076R .82 on my stock RB25 for 18 months, it was nice once you were moving, 1st gear and most of second was a nightmare because the turbo just hit so hard it would just wheel spin all over the place, even in 3rd it was a hand full coming into boost because of how hard it hit, more like a light switch, I then switched to a GT35R .82 and it was far better, much easier and more fun to drive, I can change gears at 5000rpm in 2nd into 3rd and stay at 1bar (my low boost), My customers RB25 is running a T04z and I personaly find that even easier to drive on the street in lower boost levels than the GT35 purely because its much smoother and more progressive coming into boost and having a 4000rpm band of 1.5bar makes it just as easy to drive as my GT35R (besides that it KILLS me in a straight line) I also find around a track that big turbo is also a lot easier to drive because you can give it a lot more pedal in and coming out of a corner and you can feel it starting to power up vs the smaller turbo's where they just hit and your left going sideways. Just my 2c on why somtimes larger turbo's can actualy make it easier to drive.

Yeah just stick a test light in there to see which one is live, it is in the RB26 FSM though, look at the ECU wiring chart, its in there it will tell you what pin from the ECU it was, I run my ignition coils and injector power from a dedicated 30A circuit off the ECU relay to ensure I dont get voltage drop as I found a few of them dropping to 11 or 11.5v while the car was running.

Hi guys, Do any of the Skylines use the same rocker pannel clips to hold the OE skirts on as the S14's? bit of an arb question but If it does do any of you guys maybe have the part number? thanks

Cut the plug off and solder it on, I had to install a GTR resistor pack into my RB25 loom when I went with GTR D-jetro and it was a sinch, just cliped the plug off and soldered the wires on, only wire thats critical is the power wire, the other six can go any way round. I have used integra packs on SR20's before so I dont see why the accord pack wouldnt work on the GTR

Ive used Carillo, eagle, Tomei and a host of other brands, honestly they all work well, for near all of the motors now days that I do (turbo for usuage on track, street and drag) I stick with Eagle H beam, in very high HP SR20's, Rb's, 2jz's (including 3 over 1000hp) I have yet to have an eagle rod fail, imo its bang for your buck. Only time I worry about I-beam is for much higher reving N/A cars. If money was no concern (which is fairly rare) I would go with Carillo.

Why dont you just have them taken down .5mm or 1mm and reuse them? even if you find the near perfect cap and its got a TINY TINY offset and you line bore it would mean that only 50% of the new cap will get machined, and it will be on they higher side of the stock specs, if you machine yours down and reuse you can get pretty much the exact factory clearance + cost savings.

Yeah I know the RB does, just an example of the repair. Honestly yours dont look that bad, that spot or corosion is tiny, I would say dont bother unless your running some hard core cams and springs which would load them a lot more than stock.

Before (kinda hard to see) After .05mm was taken off and it was line bored. SR20 example of gauling from no bleed back valve, easily fixed. Motor has done 30 000km's now reving to 8500 daily. I wouldnt be that worried, its an easy fix.

Only problem is that even if you could get new ones each one of those journal caps is unique in mount offset, easy way to see is to swap some of those caps around and youll see presto hole is now off set by up to 1mm on some motors, Nissan obviously bolts them all up and line bores so that even if there is slight variance in the cap mount the hole is still perfect. So if you need to replace any you will need to line bore it. Easy way to do it is to have .5mm taken off the caps, bolt them all up and have it line bored, its only the caps that score not the head due to valve spring load. The guys here in South Africa always use oil filters that dont have anti drain back valves which causes gauling and damage to the cam caps especialy in SR20's, takes up to 10 seconds from start up for the oil to start coming out the spray bars with no drain back valve in the filter. It cost about the same here to have both sides line bored as it does to bore and hone the same size motors cylinders, cant imagine it being that much more in Ausi

Those are prone to over boosting with anything bigger than a GT3076R

I would have also said that, but its the exact same setup that the only minutely smaller GT3076R used, I increased the WG to 44mm (from 38mm) and increased the WG pipe size to try accomodate the slightly larger turbo, cant see it causing such a huge boost rise and not just a general over boost

Just fitted a GT3582R .82 with Tial 44mm gate in place of my previous GT3076R .82 with tial 38mm. The 3076R ran mint, zero problems keeping boost at .8 to .9bar with zero EBC bleed off, With the 3582R .82 w/ 44mm gate it is perfect till 5800rpm, doesnt even flinch, stays spot on .8bar, but as it hits 5800rpm it climbs like a btch to 1.8 1.9bar in a flash, Ive checked all the boost controler hoses, all is fine, also turned it off, still same thing, checked my mapping, no massive changes in timing or fuel anywhere, particualy around that RPM, Just wondering is anyone has has a problem like this, im wondering if maybe the new tial 44mm gate is not retracting all the way, displaying symptoms not common with regular wg being to small or manifold not flowing right where its a gradual increase, my problem feels more like a lightswitch effect, as FYI this is on a RB25 S1 run with R33GTR D-jetro PFC, full built motor with 256 poncams, still the same mani and exhaust setup as the 3076R used without a problem, Any hints would be fantastic,

Thermal efficiency between the compression split of this size would be minimal, less change than the change in pumping losses or near zero exhaust back presure in this situation. The 2.0fsi and 2.0Tfsi from VW are a classic example of how the turbo version of the same motor is far more efficient out of boost, at 100kph one can return 7.1L/100km on the turbo motor and the N/A will see around 7.7 to 7.8L/100km, when driving spiritedly you will see around 16L/100 and 11L/100 respecively, So you can see just how fast it can turn around. Fact of the matter is youll hardset to see a noticible change at cruize, 99% of the time its in the way you drive a turbo car that results in poor fuel economy.

If you had to take an RB25DE and RB25DET both bone stock on the same flat section of road doing 100kph (where the DET would make zero turbo pressure) the DET should be slightly lighter on fuel due to less pumping losses (cylinder) due to slightly lower compression, this is taking into account that the VE at a specific BSFC at low load points is usualy better on a turbo car BEFORE it comes into boost and the AFR's drop to compensate. BUT there are many veribles that can contribute to this going both ways. Best way to save fuel on a turbo car is to drive it out of boost and ensure you mapping (if its aftermarket) and the rest of your supporting bits are in good codition such as spark plugs, O2 sensor, MAF clean ectr.

Better description of problem: I am using a Nismo supper copper mix twin plate in a RB25DET S1 with RB25DET matching transmission, Push style obviously, I made 100% sure that I did everything right on install, fitted PLENTY of twin and triple plates before, I chose the nismo unit due to its stock like drivability and low sound,,,, Got the car running, with the clutch in or the clutch out its silent, changing gears with decent RPM matching its silent, but DAMM, on engagement when pulling away it sounds TERRIBLE!!! it sounds like a splined shaft slipping, once engaged its perfect again, Now due to the fact its not doing it at all with the clutch full in or full out all I can rule out any contact from the release bearing onto the PP fingers or the pivot arm onto the actual PP casing, it almost seems like the clutch plates are pucked copper or something crazy abrasive. Besides the terrible sound it feels ok, though I can feel it threw the pedal sometimes. Again I made certain all parts went together correctly, all items were cleaned and all oil/coating were taken off the mating surfaces, Any advise would be great, I am going to start stripping it all out again (real pain because its installed in a S14 right as far back as possible so i have to rip the whole engine out, Any idea's?