Slim Mat

Hmm, bit suss hey. My R32 GT-R also displays rather low oil pressure on the standard guage after some enthusiastic driving. I think it has something to do with the lower viscosity of the oil after it gets really hot when driving hard. There will be less pressure because the oil flows easier. Might also have something to do with the oil control issues in the RB26. poor oil return to the sump. Check this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...ui-t110680.html Other than that have some other guys post up their oil pressure readings and refer to the engine manual specs.

If you aren't getting power after the relay then there must be an internal problem with the relay. Easiest way is just to replace the relay. Just because it clicks doesn't meant that it is OK.

Yeah, it's not very easy to rebuild turbos.......tried it. You'll probably damage something or it will be out of balance when you put it back together, in which case it will blow up! Check here on the forums, see if someone is selling their old ones. Get new ones, get high flowed ones, get used ones, find one that is exactly the same as the good turbo if you are only going to replace one, otherwise you need to replace both. Those are pretty much your options.

WHo the ...... would say that it's slack in a steering box! If you have a half modern car(skyline I assume), then they have racks, different. Highly likely that your front disks are warped. Get them machined or get these resty ones machined and fit those. We quite often just fit new ones, works out better, no chance of them still being warped and sometimes you can't machine anyway due to the disks being under minimum thickness so you have to get new ones.

Hey Gav, PM sent. PS: I think the ones I have are Tein Type NS-II's, non-adjustable.

Thanks to all the others that left responses and recommendations. I might have to get on to you about some more info soon. Some of that gear looks pretty hardcore serious. I want to get to that stage, but at this point I just have a standardish motor and that looks like a rather big jump with extra controllers and stuff. Bit over the top for a standard car, maybe a little to exy as well for now when I won't see that much gain. Then again, if it's the absolute only way of tuning my PFC is guess I'll have to go that way. Is the same sort of gear the most tuner workshops use? Obviously the have tailpipe jobbies(portable styles).

Thanks Paul. I found your DIY tuning thread as well, having a read through it. Why should the feedback on O2 sensors be disabled for tuning? Perhaps we could start a table of MAF sensor voltage. It would make tuning so much easier, for anyone on the forum. Do get what I mean by my description in the topic post?

Yeah thanks Paulr33. I have read just about all of the FAQ before doing anthing, it's awsome, thanks heaps for it. I understand most of it. I know that too high combustion temps(too lean) and I'll melt a piston and other such stuff. I just finished a basic engine management course, so I learnt a fair bit on that sort stuff, timing, mixture etc, just don't know how to measure and set it all properly yet. How do I use a wide band sensor and where can I get one? Are there any other threads on the forum that you know of that might assist me? And as a general rule, to set ignition timing, you would try to advance it as far as possible at all load points without producing too much knock, is that right? And for injection it would be as close to 14.7:1, until exhaust temp(combustion temps) get too high and then richen it up a bit, so under the highest load points of the map? Also to provent knock.

Rofl, I had a go in MS paint. Haha, omg that looks really bad

Hello, I installed my new Power FC last weekend(R32 GT-R), went for a drive, monitored everything, seemed ok, so I left it in for the week. Unfortunately it developed a miss by Thursday morning. The injection map is set too rich for town driving and as a result it fowled the spark plugs. Old ECU back in, quick burn out the highway sorted that. Not really keen on driving 700kms to get my car tuned, since I live in the country, so I would like to have a go myself. I know that doesn't sound very wise, but I think I have a pretty good idea on what needs to be done. I would like to know how everyone else messures their air:fuel ratios. I can use that to set up the injection map. It's not as simple as using the O2 sensors because they produce a varying voltage depending on what the ECU sets as the A:F ratio(closed loop). Or I could messure the precise air flow and set it using that, but I need some idea on voltage tables so that I can compare the air flow meter voltage and set a corresponding injection value. For eg: if the MAF sensor reads 1 volt, that might equal 1kg of air so I would set the injection value on that load point of the map to X. Could someone post up their own methods of tuning their cars, I know that there are a few people that claim they have done it. Let me know what else I need to do. Or if someone knows a member(I can't remember their names otherwise I might message them) could you put me in touch with them.

I'm not sure, but I would suggest getting ones to suit you car. They could have different plugs and mountings anyway. Proper splitfire coil packs for your car will be designed to deal with the boost(higher ignition energy to jump the gap).

It looks very nice on a quick inspection. I would probably buy that. V Spec II as well.

Ignore post, pics didn't load properly on the first time

Haha, that was pretty good. I enjoyed reading it, being a bit of a fan other show.

Stop looking everyone, stop looking, I found it, it's ok, don't worry anymore. haha The ECU loom plug was just a really tight fit. It wasn't plugged into the original ecu properly, so I though that it didn't have to go in very far. When I actually forced it in a bit further it obviously made contact with all the pins and the FCC powered up. Very cool. Went through all the screens and checked everything, seems ok, now for the fun part. I feel 1337 tuning my own car(not that it will be very hard, it's almost stock). Thanks

Do you have any aftermarket engine management devices, eg: powerfc? Could be a lot of things. Spark plugs, ignition coil, MAF sensor, idle control motor. Best to get a mechanic to have a look at it so they can diagnose the problem properly and get it fixed.

Morning everyone, This morning I installed my new Power FC for my R32 GT-R. I followed all the recommendations and instructions on the FAQ page, but when I got to the step that says to power up the hand controller and set the "boost control kit" option, my hand controller wouldn't turn on. I have a fairly new model, FCC3, I think, and the hand controller that came with it is one of these new mini versions. Does anyone know if there is anything I have missed or have some ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated because I so keen to start this this morning.

Hello, Also looking for a HICAS ecu, anyone got any out there? Can get?

Yeah, agreed. Stuffing around with that sort of shit is way too hard, and probably expensive. You might find that getting a tunable ECU is cheaper and easier. The other thing is, like you mentioned, detonation is dangerous. If you get a proper ECU you can have it tuned to suit your car which is the best way to go, since most cars are different and a chip that you find might cause damage. I have a Power FC. Alternatively, just get a stock ECU.

True^ Sounds pretty logical, you're probably on the right track with air flow sensors. Reading more air than what is there, injects more fuel to suit, runs like crap, yada yada. Sensor is probably R/S, probably could have just started with a new one, but little fixes like that are always worth a go.

I didn't think R32's had an active diff. I think that wasn't brought in until R33. Also, R33's have electronic rear racks, so it would be different again. I asked for one to suit R32. I'll definately have to try the wreckers I think. Thanks

265 is the width of the tyre in mm, 35 is the percentage of the width that the wall equals, ie 95.4mm. R means that they are radials and the 18 means the rim diameter in inches.You are worried about rolling circumference of the tyre(radius), if they differ between front and rear you have probs with 4WD.

Come on, anyone know where I can get one?

Hello fellow 'liners, I have been recently diagnosing a power steering problem that my GT-R is suffering from. I think I've narrowed it slightly, could be the HICAS control unit. Does anyone have one that they have removed from their car, perhaps after fitting hicas lock bar or that has come out of a wreck? Obviously I need a working one. It has to suit R32 GT-R. Any help is appreciated, strong arm sucks. Cheers

I have 265/35 R18'S on mine, there is a little bit of room left and mine is lowered slightly, so you could always try. Just ask if the seller whether you can return them if they don't fit. The other thing that is REALLY important is the radius of the tyres, the front and back have to match exactly otherwise you will have problems with the 4WD. You should check this between those these new ones.